By "solid color" he means non-metallic. Only the metallics had clear coat. Non-metallics did not.


I did not use a fan for negative pressure... I probably should have, but I couldn't figure out how to easily do it. I did a lot of vacuuming to keep the dust down.

 

Yes, thanks for clarifying Van. Solid colours = non-metallic paints.

Note that any metallic finish is much more difficult to spray correctly, not as DIY friendly for certain.

 

ok so this guy did a $50 paint job with brushes & rustoleum and it looks good enough for government work as far as I'm concerned:

but these questions come to mind:

- He's using rollers and brushes, for this application is that better than a sprayer?

- no mention of clearcoat, how long would you expect that paint job to last if the car isn't garaged?

 

We use Rustoleum (enamel paint) for railings and grilles outside and as long as it's properly primered and laid on properly it will last for a very long time. It would be thinned and laid on in several applications allowing each coat to flash over before applying the follow up coat.

 

I've used the ruetoleum enamel in my spray gun with compressor. I thinned it and added a flattener to it, this was for white bedroom furniture for my daughters room, the finish's came out great, if it were gloss instead of matte it would have been good enough looking for a cheapo style paintjob. How it would hold up and finding a clear to protect it a little more may help if someone really was going to try that on a car.

 

I'm gonna do it - any recommendations on a sander and grit?

 

Also, why the need to thin the rustoleom? Could it just be painted on "as is" directly out of the can?

 

Just a few questions if you are really going to play this game:

1. Why are you thinking you need to go to bare metal? I can see doing that if you are going for a tope tier paint job which you obviously aren't. you could probably get by with some scuffing and a decent primer to bite into the scored and cleaned (mineral spirits etc to get the oils off) paint. There will be a big difference in what you sand with initially if you really don't need to take all the old paint off the car.

2. Are you planning to spray the rustoleum using a compressor and gun or just rattle cans? or are you planning to brush/roll the paint? I thinned mine and used the flattener because I was spraying and it wouldn't spray well not thinned, I also wanted a smooth surface which the thinning and flattener/self leveler helped me get. I would especially do something like the self leveler/flattener if brushing as it will minimize the brush lines visible.

 

1. I don't have to take off all the paint, I do want to take off the remainder of the clearcoat that hasn't peeled off yet though. The Rustoleum video guy said he didn't use a primer since the Rustoleum sticks by itself.

2. I will be brushing (regular brushes or sponge brushes depending which is better?). What is a self leveler/flattener, where do I get it, what is the mixing ratio, etc?

 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_41592-71-FLD...3D3&facetInfo=

That's what I used but not sure how it will react on a car v furniture that I was using it on. The ratio was on the can but I modified it and used less of this stuff since I was also using thinner to get it to spray correctly. I would definitely test a little area or some other panel first before trying this for real. I also wouldn't paint without primer but that is your deal, then again I probably wouldn't try this whole experiment.

 

At this pint of knowing its going to be at best a 10 footer...maybe.... Why not just plasti-dip the car and if it sucks you just peel and redo.

 

@Jorgen944: That's exactly what I need

@Indy Rev: I don't know what a 10 footer is but Plasti dip will be more expensive

 

... [looks good from 10 feet]

 

Is this a troll thread?

 

Is this a troll thread? Just pay $299 at Maaco and have them paint it.