rsabeebe

I removed the internal bolts with hex keys, but I'm curious what brand sockets people are using to install the bolts. My sockets are too wide to make it through the hole in the tower and I want to avoid a hex too long for torquing reasons (if I even ran across that option). Do you guys just grind down a 6mm hex socket to fit? Thanks.

75ohm

I bought a snapon 6MM 3/8 drive... one place I don't want to mess it up...

V2Rocket

a long hex key...whatever brand harbor freight offers...

Van

I use a Craftsman long 6mm.

Last Lemming

tightening them up is really only half the battle IMO. Getting them down in there and not dropping the bolt its the real PIA. Find a small but strong magnet and tape it to the side of the body of the hex shaft right next to where you expect the top of the bolt to be. This will hold the bolt on long enough to sit it in the hole.

When you go to bolt the cam housing on start these 6 bolts first. if one drops in then you only have 5 or less to remove to get the bolt out.

just my .02 worth just having done this recently.

rsabeebe

van, not worried about torque fluctuation with the long 6mm hex? the 6mm might be thick enough not to twist much, i guess. just wanted to make sure the torque figures would be close/within to range.

mclarenno9

The torque is going to be the same, regardless of how much it twists.

Just make sure you get a key with a flat end, not one with a ball as they will break much easier.

Van

Yeah, I've never had a torquing problem with the long socket.

More importantly, when you remove the cam box, break all the bolts loose before taking them all the way out. Lots of people take each bolt all the way out, then the last one or two are holding so much pressure from the valve springs, that you strip the hex head trying to loosen it!

Same deal with pressure plate bolts...

V2Rocket

tapping any allen-head bolt with a hammer on the socket before trying to loosen helps a lot in my experience.

+1 on loosening them all a little first before trying to remove.

a little bit of grease in the top of the bolt head helps it stick to the allen key...or get a magnetic key

gregeast

I bought a 6mm 1/4 inch drive hex socket driver that fit through the hole and then used a 1/4" drive torque wrench and an extension (and some duct tape to hold it together) to snug it down.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120784892353&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:1123

HICKS

I use a long HAZET 6mm 3/8 drive.

rsabeebe

long hex it is. guess my torque concerns were unfounded. thanks all.

jeffrsmith

Steve Grosekemper provided a write-up on Dieter Motor Sports site about proper torque, and how to obtain it, on the cam housing bolts. He believes that flexing on the longer hex drive sockets can lead to cam housing gasket leakage. I am not an engineer, but all things being equal, you certainly can feel flex in the long hex drive that could absolutely result in uneven torque being applied.

http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/2002/8-2002.htm

kev951

also get a magnet in there and check for loose previous bolts in the corners!!!!! usually on firewall side of cam box.

mclarenno9

While the long allen bit may deflect torsionally a few degrees when torque is applied, the same torque is present at both ends of it. Beam/click/digital wrench, it doesn't matter... there is nowhere else for a moment reaction to take place but at the fastener head.

The only error in using a long extension (or flexible shaft) will come from the fact that you increase the tendency to hold the torque wrench angled somewhat with respect to the plane of the fastener head. Ideally the extension and bolt will be coaxial.

P.S. I'm a mechanical engineer