Dougs951S

Guys, I did a stupid and snapped off the little 5 dollar radiator fitting that comes from the back of the coolant overflow tank. It's threaded and has a green washer on it. I can get a new one, the issue is how should I go about getting it out of the radiator without cracking the radiator, since it broke flush? Preferably without removing the radiator. Its this piece right here, in case you guys don't know what I'm talking about.http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI...skukey_1000512. Also, are the nipples on the N/A radiator the same? Both 944online and pelican shows two different part numbers for the early n/a cars and all 85.5+ cars, but they look functionally identicle. The only thing I can think of it maybe they have a different diameter? If they are the same I'll just go grab one from my local german boneyard, they have at least a dozen early N/A 944 there. Thanks gentleman.


Edit: just had a brain blast, does anyone know the thread pitch on it? It appears to be a coarse thread m10; would it be a bad idea to put a brass or steel fitting with some teflon tape in place of the porsche part? My concern would be coefficient of expansion at operating temp causing the radiator to crack, if I didn't already crack it...

Eric_Oz_S2

I got mine out by heating up a flat head screwdriver with a torch. It will quickly make grooves in the side and allow you to unscrew it.

pkt1213

The plastic ones don't seem to be in there super tight. I'm surprised you can't just stick your finger on the outside of it and turn it out.

My 944 has run a brass fitting for who knows how long with no trouble from it.

kens_74911s

Coefficient of expansion Plastic vs brass or a metal is that, the plastic will expand more than the metal.
1)If you can drain the radiator enough to put some light air pressure on it drill the fitting out in preparation for an easy out.
2) Like the other member stated heat and melt a screwdriver into the remaining broken section.
3)Drill the insert out with a smaller drill and attempt the heated screwdriver trick again.
4)Drill with slightly undersized tap drill and tap with same pitch tap M10x1.5.
5)All else fails you could drill and tap for pipe threads I think you could get by with 1/4 NPT and put a standard 1/4 brass barbed hose fitting in.
K

jeffrsmith

+1 on the heated screwdriver.

Darwantae951

I didn't even have to heat up the screwdriver. Light pressure and I was able to back it out with no issues.

Dougs951S

The standard fitting is metric, correct? I was not able to locate a metric brass fitting, where would I find one? I bought a pipe thread fitting, but I don't own pipe thread taps.

Dougs951S

Well, I got creative and since I needed the car running I went to the store and got a m12x1.75 bolt, then cut the head off and drilled a 7/16 hole in it and threaded it into the radiator with the felt seal and a whole bunch of epoxy. I crammed the other end into the hose and clamped it down. I'm doing homework now while it cures, I suspect it will be a permanent fix and stronger than a new plastic fitting. I tried getting the old broken off plastic out a variety of ways, the way that ended up working was a small square flute easy out and a small brass hammer, It was tight but I was able to turn it out with a small wrench. I was surprised by the size of the fitting, I pulled nearly an inch of threads out of the radiator.

update: Took the car for a nice long drive today and got everything nice and hot, it doesn't leak a drop and I suspect it will outlast the radiator.

pdejong

Funny that I just see this thread. Same thing happened to me last Saturday. I got it out without any problem with an easy out. The thread is M12x1.75


Peter deJong
CHarleston SC
'90 GT-turbocharged
'95 968 Cab

intrepidagent

I know the last post in this thread was two years ago however since RL is the first place I turn to "unf**k" something I was happy to see it. I was replacing hoses on my 944 last evening and broke the same fitting. Glad it's not a complicated extraction procedure or an expensive fix. I was initially bracing myself for a radiator replacement.

Dougs951S

that car is waiting on a new motor atm since it threw a rod about 15 months ago but the radiator is still good and will go back on the car, with the cutdown bolt DIY fitting and two rock damage areas I repaired with JB weld.

thomasmryan

I actually keep a spare. Besides being brittle from the Ph of the coolant, over tightening will shear it off at the base of the threads. Be sure to use the thick fiber washer so it seals at the proper torque.

whalenlg

Resurrecting this thread - I followed the above options - screwdriver, easy out and can't get the broken part of the fitting out of the radiator, It just keeps shredding and the hole getting bigger.
Does anyone remember if the radiator side threads are metal or plastic?
Thinking about heating an exacto knife to cut it out piece by piece, but that might not be advisable if the radiator side threads are also plastic.
Any other inspiring ideas?

931guru

Heat a flat blade screwdriver, push it in when hot, let it cool, then spin it out.

T&T Racing

Had the same overflow plastic barb break. I purchased a brass threaded barb that fits the drilled out hole in the radiator and barb OD fits into overflow hose ID. You might be able to drill and tap the opening in the radiator or just drill the hole in the radiator to have a tight fit to the threaded barb end. Clean the barb and the surface area around the radiator hole with lacquer thinner. Mix up original JB Weld epoxy and coat the barb end and the nut surface in contact with radiator, insert into radiator until flush. Then build up a beehive on the nut and barb, leaving sufficient length clear to insert hose, to the radiator surface. 1st coat thickness should not exceed recommend, let cure, repeat x times until nice large cone is formed to seal and hold in barb