What's the cheapest test pipe for a 944T available, and where/how much?
#1
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I genuinely want to use it as a test pipe, to see if a low-restriction cat would justify the cost. Don't need titanium or stainless or whatever. Just an off-the-shelf bolt on I can do in my garage and zip around on for a few weeks.
tia
Thaddeus
tia
Thaddeus
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The cheapest one at Vertex is 274 bucks. Ouch! I was hoping for 50...
I would weld one up myself, but my welding 'skills' are such that there'd be big booger welds hanging down underneath the car... enough to mess up the aerodynamics... ish.
Any other alternatives?
Thaddeus
I would weld one up myself, but my welding 'skills' are such that there'd be big booger welds hanging down underneath the car... enough to mess up the aerodynamics... ish.
Any other alternatives?
Thaddeus
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There is a wrinkle.. the cat actually has 2 inlets. One big (for the main exhaust down pipe) and one little one (for the wastegate). When the wastegate decides to dump boost, it's actually dumping exhaust gas-- which must be catalyzed. Hence 2 inlets. Otherwise, it would be a piece of cake to cobble something together.
Thaddeus
Thaddeus
#7
Drifting
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Thad - cheapest is going to be to get a used 951 cat and take the old' broomstick or whatever, and ram it out.
$50-$150, depending on your bargaining skills.
Then you can give it to me, so I can "test".
(Let me know if you decide to do this...)
$50-$150, depending on your bargaining skills.
Then you can give it to me, so I can "test".
(Let me know if you decide to do this...)
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#8
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http://www.gprparts.com has it for $210+gaskets...
http://www.autoatlanta.com has it for I believe $230+gaskets
by it I mean the bursch
http://www.autoatlanta.com has it for I believe $230+gaskets
by it I mean the bursch
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Thaddeus
Dont listen to all these guys, follow my extremely cheap formula. Drink LOTS of folgers coffee and save the coffee cans. You will need them. Next, remove the cat/downpipe assembly and cut out the cat. Get approximately four of your coffee cans and instead of welding them together, get assorted 50hp high-performance mugen stickers and "tape" the monstrosity, ahem, high performance mugen product together and install. Next, make sure you have a piece of silver duct tape with another mugen sticker on it and stick the piece to your bumper above the exhaust so you wont burn the paint with your added 69 "all motor" horsepower. Oh yeah, make sure the mugen sticker on the tape is yellow, for an additional 5 hp.
Glad I could help.
Next installment: NACA ducts done right.
Dont listen to all these guys, follow my extremely cheap formula. Drink LOTS of folgers coffee and save the coffee cans. You will need them. Next, remove the cat/downpipe assembly and cut out the cat. Get approximately four of your coffee cans and instead of welding them together, get assorted 50hp high-performance mugen stickers and "tape" the monstrosity, ahem, high performance mugen product together and install. Next, make sure you have a piece of silver duct tape with another mugen sticker on it and stick the piece to your bumper above the exhaust so you wont burn the paint with your added 69 "all motor" horsepower. Oh yeah, make sure the mugen sticker on the tape is yellow, for an additional 5 hp.
Glad I could help.
Next installment: NACA ducts done right.
#11
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Huntley used to have the Bursch test pipes for a hair over $200...
Another idea would be to go to a local muffler shop and having them weld a piece of straight pipe together for you. You would proabably have to tell them it was for a track only car (in your case it wouldn't be for driving on the stret anyway-?) and they probably wouldn't install it for you, but it would probably be cheaper- especially if you're talking about eliminating the muffler too- then you would just have one main end being connected, and the other end would just shoot straight out the end of the car, as long as it was long enough to make it past the bunmper. Or, you could make it bend and go out the side if you wanted. I've seen people on this list write about making removable pipes that they could easily unbolt and put their cats back on after racing, but they had to unbolt the side connecting to the downpipe and the side connecting to the muffler... Anyway, stopping at a local Midas or something and asking a few quetions would be probably be worth doing...
Another idea would be to go to a local muffler shop and having them weld a piece of straight pipe together for you. You would proabably have to tell them it was for a track only car (in your case it wouldn't be for driving on the stret anyway-?) and they probably wouldn't install it for you, but it would probably be cheaper- especially if you're talking about eliminating the muffler too- then you would just have one main end being connected, and the other end would just shoot straight out the end of the car, as long as it was long enough to make it past the bunmper. Or, you could make it bend and go out the side if you wanted. I've seen people on this list write about making removable pipes that they could easily unbolt and put their cats back on after racing, but they had to unbolt the side connecting to the downpipe and the side connecting to the muffler... Anyway, stopping at a local Midas or something and asking a few quetions would be probably be worth doing...
#13
Nordschleife Master
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I think you will be looking for a long time for a testpipe for $50. Just my guess tho?! I have both the Huntley Racing 3" and the bursch testpipe. The HR testpipe will obviously last forever(stainless steel), as my bursch pipe is already rusting, which is not even 6 months old. Just some things to keep in mind. I believe Tim sells the same testpipe?