Dan in Pasadena

Mine appears to be leaking so I should change it out to replace the filter, right?
By the way, what fluid to use in the short term?. Heard it was something unique.

What is the cost and "hassle" factor involved in swapping it out for a new one, including hoses. I read the earlier post about the PITA of reinstalling the large hose. Does this apply when you buy a new reservoir and hoses/clamps?
Who did you buy yours from? Cost?

IceShark

First you might want to try and see if you can make it stop leaking. Check to make sure you have the rubber seal in the cap. Then go get some new hose clamps that are the style that has an extra long tail that wraps around the inside and is smooth, no screw engagement slots cut through the steel. The company NAPA stores usually sell this clamp.

Use Dextron III, ATF fluid.

Dan in Pasadena

Ice, thanks for the info.
My understanding is that the reservoir has to be changed at 60K miles in order to change the filter...the reservoir and filter are one piece.

It's not leaking from the lid so no worry about the rubber seal..I think.

Not sure what "extra long tail that wraps around the inside" means?

Also, on the other thread using a sealant on the hose was mentioned. Seems more problemmatic than the leak if any sealant were to get where it's not supposed to go.

IceShark

Well you are right about that filter and needing to change out the whole thing. I'm just not convinced that it is really required if you change fluid on a half way regular basis. But that is up to you. I think the cost is about $25, so it isn't that bad.

As far as the clamp, instead of just having a single layer of banding going around the hose, this one has 2 layers. Zebra screw slots cut into the outer layer but a smooth inner layer. If you get the standard Zebra design the hose rubber extrudes through the screw slots and you can't get even clamping pressure and the slots chew up the hose.

I'm not too crazy about sealant on the hose either so would only try that as a last resort to seal.

Dan in Pasadena

Okay, thanks. Now I understand. I'm sure the PO never changed the fluid. I did change it(and ALL fluids) when I got the car but still, I think it's advisable to change the whole thing out...then I'll know what I've got. Interesting that it never leaked until 6 months after I changed out the fluid.

bs

my reservior is leaking pretty badly, too... from both the bottom and the top. I don't have the rubber seal under the cap that has been mentioned, so i think that is part of my problem, but it also looks like the hoses are leaking where they connect to the reservior. is this pretty likely to be fixed with solid new hose clamps? should i cut the ends of the hoses off so as to clamp a section of "new" hose? or just replace the hoses altogether?

Dan in Pasadena

Per a prior thread, don't cut them as they are flaired at the end and you cut that off only to find you can't get the stupid thing back on.

By the way, I wonder if the tubes on which the hoses fit are a similar "phenolic" or whatever that funky looking brown plastic is? If they are won't they crush or something by just putting on stronger clamps?

Chris 968

My 968 has the same problem. I have a friend with a BMW M3 and he also has the same leaking reservoir.

Thaddeus

I got my reservoir from Vertex, I think it was like 40.00 for the part. Not cheap, but not ruinous.

I used standard clamps (new). I am not worried about cutting into the rubber with the hose clamp screw, since it's really thick-walled. Perhaps I am about to learn better, but...

The hose -is- dificult to get on the large nipple. I wound up heating the end of the hose with a paint stripper gun so it would be pliant enough to go on. A million laughs, since the reservoir is cast out of that brown plastic bakelite crap and seems quite crushable...

good luck

Thaddeus

sm

bs-

for info on the cap's rubber seal, please see the thread that's labeled:

Part Number needed: ...

hope that helps.

sm

deni durrell

thanks for this post Dan..

i wanted to ask you guys some stuff: instead of actually confronting the issue (fixing what is not working, i.e., leaking resevoir, non-working pump, whatever) i just disconnected the belt when i had a new water pump and radiator installed. i am now in manual mode.

a couple of issues came from that decision which weren't great: a.) i have put a lot of stress on the steering wheel (had to replace it because it fell apart), b.) the steering column underneath the dash came out from where it goes through the firewall, which is normally riveted (?) to something that holds it in place.

these are my questions:

- how do manual racks differ from power racks and how is power used by this system from the engine (HP)?

- am i damaging the rack (or the ps motor or pump?) by not using it in the way it was designed?

i am trying to figure out if power assisted steering really matters.. or not, for getting a better feel for the road.

i think i read sometime ago (from tabor?) who said that the ps isn't really used at higher speeds.. therefore it's ok at not separating the driver from the road. anyone care to comment?

DennisR

I'm currently doing the same thing and have for about a month. I think that it's played hell with the steering u-joint. It's not made to take the force that you have to put on it to work the rack without the power assist. I have to change it out now when I replace the ruined line that started the whole mess. My advice...fix everything the way it's supposed to be or don't drive it until you can. A hundred dollar/1 hour job has turned into much more. JMO

triscadek

What are the 2 wires at the bottom of the pump for? Low fluid level? Also do they have to be connected to the "correct terminals" ?

DB944T

I also had a leaky PS reservoir. My mechanic replaced it and a hose, which he said was a recommended update for the car (87 951). Don't know how true it is, but I took his advice and it has worked fine since. Also, the PO had to replace the rack at 70K (now at 90)and probably had neglected the filter issue.

in case you are interested, the part numbers he used were:
928 347 015 05 PS reservoir 944 928 ($26)
944 347 445 05 PS hose 944 updated ($31)
999 230 357 02 PS hose fitting 944 update

Dave

IceShark

yes, that hose number is the same updated one I bought (944-347-445-05). My number for the updated hose barb that goes on the pump is way different. Guess that is why the product description says Grease and a negative cost number. LOL! The reservoir cost number looks about right - I recall ~$25 USD.

Thad, you don't want a standard "zebra" clamp on these lines. It doesn't work after a few years. Why everyone and their brother are replacing what looks like a perfectly good steering feed line and clamps.