Power Steering Reservoir R&R
02-07-2002, 02:34 PM
#17
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I did mine in December. Here's what I found. Replaced the resevoir, and both hoses to the resevoir. Don't skimp on replacing the resevoir when you do both hoses, for those of you who are not aware, it contains a filter that cannot be accessed at the bottom of the resevoir, and should be replaced every ~60K miles.
FYI: I purchased all three from Vertex for about $250
0. Lift front end on jack stands, not wheel ramps. You have to be able to turn your wheels during the process.
1. Syphon or pump all fluid out of resevoir
2. Surround area under resevoir with lots of rags or papertowels to catch remaining contents of resevoir
3. Loosen clamp at the bottom end of hose with metal spiral tubing (the expensive hose)
4. Drain this hose and remainder of resevoir
5. Disconnect both hoses from resevoir and toss resevoir
6. Put paper towel plugs in both hoses to prevent further leakage.
7. Place container under PS pump, and remove clamp and hose from pump
8. Drain hose into container. This hose (if it is original) has a bracket that holds the hose in place about midway, connected to a plastic area next to the waterpump. The replacement hose is shorter and does not route this way, so when you remove this clamp, don't forget to reinstall the bolt (allen head I think) to secure the plastic piece (has a blocked nipple on NAs, and a hose connected on Turbos).
9. Remove clamps and brackets securing the expensive hose
10. Remove bolts on plate that secures metal spiral from chassis (remove plate with hose and reattach to new hose in similar manner
11. Since you have both hoses removed at this time, flush the rack and pump of as much of the old fluid as possible. Make sure you have a container that can catch fluid dropping from both open ends (pump and auxiliary hose section). Turn steering wheel back and forth a few times.
12. With everything still out of the way, take some time to clean up the area where fluid has leaked over time. CAUTION: the PS pump connection is exposed at this time. Don't let any debris fall down and into this open nipple. I placed a small cap over it while I cleaned up.
13. Connect new hoses to pump and lower auxiliary hose.
14. The short hose goes straight up to the resevoir, just make sure you route it as far from the exhaust manifold as possible, and not too close to the oil filter so that you can still change the filter. I found that it was best to turn and clamp the resevoir a bit so that this hose was forward of other hose, so that it was away from exhaust.
15. The long hose should be re-attached to the spiral mounting bracket, and then put in place. Re-attach the bracket to the chassis first, and then connect both hose ends.
16. Reconnect all clamps, and hose brackets.
17. Wipe up moisture and mess on pump, so You will be able to watch for any leaks due to lose clamp.
18. Fill resevoir with ATF Dextron III to midway on the fill level indicator.
19. Start engine and immediately shut down. this will pull most of the fluid down into the hoses and pump area
20. Top off resevoir, and restart engine. Check level. If OK, turn wheel ONCE from end to end to bleed rack, pump and hoses.
21. Recheck level, repeat step 20 until no more bubbles appear in resevoir, and level remains constant.
(Don't know if you should turn motor off when refilling resevoir each time, but I did).
22. Check for leaks, and tighten clamps if necessary.
FYI: I purchased all three from Vertex for about $250
0. Lift front end on jack stands, not wheel ramps. You have to be able to turn your wheels during the process.
1. Syphon or pump all fluid out of resevoir
2. Surround area under resevoir with lots of rags or papertowels to catch remaining contents of resevoir
3. Loosen clamp at the bottom end of hose with metal spiral tubing (the expensive hose)
4. Drain this hose and remainder of resevoir
5. Disconnect both hoses from resevoir and toss resevoir
6. Put paper towel plugs in both hoses to prevent further leakage.
7. Place container under PS pump, and remove clamp and hose from pump
8. Drain hose into container. This hose (if it is original) has a bracket that holds the hose in place about midway, connected to a plastic area next to the waterpump. The replacement hose is shorter and does not route this way, so when you remove this clamp, don't forget to reinstall the bolt (allen head I think) to secure the plastic piece (has a blocked nipple on NAs, and a hose connected on Turbos).
9. Remove clamps and brackets securing the expensive hose
10. Remove bolts on plate that secures metal spiral from chassis (remove plate with hose and reattach to new hose in similar manner
11. Since you have both hoses removed at this time, flush the rack and pump of as much of the old fluid as possible. Make sure you have a container that can catch fluid dropping from both open ends (pump and auxiliary hose section). Turn steering wheel back and forth a few times.
12. With everything still out of the way, take some time to clean up the area where fluid has leaked over time. CAUTION: the PS pump connection is exposed at this time. Don't let any debris fall down and into this open nipple. I placed a small cap over it while I cleaned up.
13. Connect new hoses to pump and lower auxiliary hose.
14. The short hose goes straight up to the resevoir, just make sure you route it as far from the exhaust manifold as possible, and not too close to the oil filter so that you can still change the filter. I found that it was best to turn and clamp the resevoir a bit so that this hose was forward of other hose, so that it was away from exhaust.
15. The long hose should be re-attached to the spiral mounting bracket, and then put in place. Re-attach the bracket to the chassis first, and then connect both hose ends.
16. Reconnect all clamps, and hose brackets.
17. Wipe up moisture and mess on pump, so You will be able to watch for any leaks due to lose clamp.
18. Fill resevoir with ATF Dextron III to midway on the fill level indicator.
19. Start engine and immediately shut down. this will pull most of the fluid down into the hoses and pump area
20. Top off resevoir, and restart engine. Check level. If OK, turn wheel ONCE from end to end to bleed rack, pump and hoses.
21. Recheck level, repeat step 20 until no more bubbles appear in resevoir, and level remains constant.
(Don't know if you should turn motor off when refilling resevoir each time, but I did).
22. Check for leaks, and tighten clamps if necessary.
02-07-2002, 03:34 PM
#18
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Join Date: Oct 2001
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i have removed my ps pump to get to my oil cooler and after reading this thread will probably replace my reservior while everything is drained.
my questions:
-what is the reason for the update of that hose? should i bother replacing it on an 87 951 with 65k? is the best way to judge whether it is old or new by looking to see if it is mounted in the middle?
-what would justify replacing the "expensive" hose if it isn't ruptured in the middle?
-could someone clarify step 11? it seems to me that the reservior and pump are both disconnected by this stage so where is any fluid or any pressure going to come from to provide "flushing"? this sounds like a good idea...
-what is the "auxillary hose"? (as in what does it come from and connect to) is this the metal coil that i'm assuming is a crude oil/air heat exchanger?
my questions:
-what is the reason for the update of that hose? should i bother replacing it on an 87 951 with 65k? is the best way to judge whether it is old or new by looking to see if it is mounted in the middle?
-what would justify replacing the "expensive" hose if it isn't ruptured in the middle?
-could someone clarify step 11? it seems to me that the reservior and pump are both disconnected by this stage so where is any fluid or any pressure going to come from to provide "flushing"? this sounds like a good idea...
-what is the "auxillary hose"? (as in what does it come from and connect to) is this the metal coil that i'm assuming is a crude oil/air heat exchanger?
