1933beer

I just read through the thread. Sorry you have not found the problem. I would drop the pan, perhaps crap did fall off and go down a hole. I remember when I took mine cover off it looked like yours, bubbles and all. check the pick up tube seal. if you find the problem you could replace the baerings while your down there for peice of mind. you are close to 100k.

mhr

Thanks for the comments. Just to update last weekend I re-torqued the crank bolt to spec and changed the oil sender unit and neither solved the problem.

I am going to make one last ditch attempt to prime the oil pump as per instructions on clarks on the off chance that the OPRV was the original problem and now the oil pump has lost its prime. If that does not solve things I will pull the oil pan and see whats up in the pan.

Will do the gasket and I guess it makes sense to change the bearings once it is open assuming it is a reasonably easy job (I have not read up on it yet).

I will keep you posted.

Thanks
Mark

michaelmount123

Is there oil in the sump (not that it's ever happened to me....).

michaelmount123

I think you're premature in pulling the pan. I still believe the most likely cause (see my earlier post) is your OPRV. What do you mean you took it apart and cleaned it? It's a non-servicable part. Porsche warns against taking it apart.

The issue with the OPVR sticking (which I believe is most likely your problem) is that the piston will stick closed (OP too high), or open (OP too LOOOOWWW). This is most often caused by a slight misalignment of the oil cooler housing and the OPRV bore. Taking the OPRV out and inspecting it (and disassembling??) will not address the misalignment. There's a Porsche tool to align the bore. Get the tool and try threading it into the bore by hand. If it doesn't go all the way in, loosen the 4 8mm bolts securing the oil cooler housing, re- insert the alignment tool, and then torque the housing bolts. Google 944 Tech Bulletin #3 so you understand what's going on.

If you didn't destroy the OPRV by disassembling it, and you align the OPRV so the alignment tool will thread in and out by hand, and you STILL have no/low OP, you will know you're not wasting your time pulling the pan. Address the most likely and simple things first!

pontifex4

I agree with Michael (who is considerably more knowledgeable than me). It's a lot of work to get that sucker off and back on again!

Also, Clark's suggests priming by turning the engine backwards while pouring oil down the filter opening. I don't love the idea of doing that on a 16 valve engine, since the chain tensioner could bind. Any thoughts on this? What about air pressure down the dipstick tube, or squirting oil under pressure into the OPRV hole?

mhr

Check out this thread on pelican regarding rebuilding the OPRV.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ief-valve.html

I don't know that much but it seems unlikely that the oil pump not being primed is the problem. If turning the engine backwards is a bad idea of a 16v then I wont risk it.

Have to get my hands on an oprv alignment tool. Charlie do you have one I could borrow. Will ship it back to you immediately. I will be in Kingston this weekend to watch my nephew play basketball in the gym at Queens.

Believe me I would love to avoid dropping the oil pan.

thanks
Mark

mhr

I am not sure. I thought the sump was the back of the oil pan. And if so how would I know?

pontifex4

I think he's just asking whether the engine has oil in it.
I don't have an alignment tool. Try asking on the Canadian forum -- there may be someone close to you who does.

mhr

will post thanks

mhr

I decided to disconnect the leads from the oil pressure sender altogether to see how the dash would react. It didn't do as I would have expected.

When the car is started the oil pressure low idiot light is now off and the oil pressure still sits at 1 bar motor off or started. And all of the other lights on the dash are now off.

From what I understood disconnecting the leads should have pegged the gauge at 5 and turned on the low pressure idiot light. Am I right about this?

So I am thinking the problem may in fact be my cluster.

I would like to measure the oil pressure at the sender. If I take a multi meter and connect to the sender lead and ground should I be able to measure the pressure by the resistance while on and then started and conclude from that if I have oil pressure or not.

There is a table on clarks I think I could follow.

Anyone have any opinion as to what the new symptoms suggest?

Thanks

Mark

mhr

So I decided to take the oil filter off and the filter is completely empty not a single drip came off it when I took it off so whatever may be wrong with my cluster there is definitely no oil pressure.

Several people have mentioned that if the OPRV goes in without resistance it is unlikely that oil cooler alignment it the problem. Is it worth purchasing the tool to eliminate this as my problem. Every time I order something it ends out costing me $40 in shipping so a $55 tool from paragon costs me $100.

If the conclusion is next step pull the oil pan I will get the tool anyway when I order an oil pan gasket but that will only happen after I have to pan off and see if there is anything else I need.

today was a nice sunny day bummed me out that I don't have her on the road.

Mark

eric951turbo

Hey Mark, i sure could borrow that oil cooler alignment tool if you buy it : )
I'll be putting the oil pan back next weekend and everything else. I should be able to lend you the engine support bar in about 2 weeks max, maybe before.
Eric

mhr

thank's eric if I get the tool you are welcome to it any time. And thanks re the support bar let me know.

pontifex4

The dry filter does make me think that it's time to pull the pan, if for no other reason than to check your rod bearings for ill effects from running in that condition.

Also, if you're ordering parts, I have had significantly better luck ordering from either Pelican or Lindsey (both charge substantially less than Paragon to ship) and shipping to a Kinek point on the US side of the border. https://www.kinek.com/find-a-kinekpo...rProvinceId=53

No charge to sign up, and they charge $5 per package.

mhr

I often ship to Champlain NY same idea but it become a pita driving to go get them 2 hrs when all is said and done and only during regular hours so. My preference is generally pelican but I haven't seen the alignment tool anywhere but paragon and 944online.

I guess I am going to start pulling things apart and once I am inside will build a list of what I need. How will I be able to tell if the rod bearings are ok?