Hey guys, I'm getting ready to replace the clutch master and slave cylinders on my '87 951.
Is there anything of great importance that I should know before I get to work? Does anyone have any tips to make the job go more smoothly? I've tried to stay away from working on anything clutch related on my other P-cars so I'm not really sure what to expect.
Also I've seen the write-ups on Clark's garage dealing with replacing both master and slave cylinders but thought someone on here might have something to add

 

Replace them both. Use a flare nut wrench. Bleed well.

 

Definitely bench bleed both new parts. Remove anything in your way, its typically easier than trying to work around stuff. You don't have to remove the starter, just take it off and let it hang out of the way by the wires, but only if the battery is disconnected. That's all I can think of, preforming what I like to call the "astronaut dive" (climbing under the dash on your back) comes with practice. If you're a big person you might have to remove the drivers seat.

 

when you get around to doing it can you make a write up? I am soon to be doing it to. I did hear about a kit to rebuild it though for a bit less. any word on that?

 

Thanks for the quick replies guys- I really appreciate it. Being over 6' I assume I'll be taking the drivers' seat out to make it easier in the long run

aldito2: I'll take pics and stuff as I go and I can put it into a small write-up if you're interested. I'm not sure it will be any more help than what is already on Clark's garage but maybe a few more pics and details will be beneficial

 

wyit change the pipe between the master & slave and the blue feeder hose at the reservoir, they are probably due.

If you haven't changed the fluid in a while probably a good time to flush it all out of clutch & brake system at the same time. GL

 

That was all on my list. Ordered the blue hose from paragon and ATE superblue. You mean the line from the master that is partly a soft line? I ordered that also but I want to make sure I didn't miss anything

 

No need to get under the dash.

Oh, and be careful getting the little fluid hose off the master cylinder reservoir. It's easy to break the nipple on the reservoir. Ask how I know...

 

Van: so I won't need to get under the dash at all? Are there any tricks to getting the fluid hose off other than slow and steady pressure?

 

Get, or make, a speed bleeder. Otherwise you'll be pissed trying to pump it. It's pretty straight forward. I prefer to put the fluid in the bleeder so the res doesn't run low.

 

This. Or pump....pump some more...get pissed, scratch head and wonder where in the hell all that fluid is actually going...pump some more...then finally call a friend w/ said bleeder.

 

Use a sharp craft knife and carefully cut through the hose lengthways at the point where it pushes onto the mc plastic nipple. Just don't try and lever it off that outlet or as Van warns, it will snap right off. Same when putting the new one on, lube the inside with some brake fluid to help it slip on.

 

I heard of a trick that may help with bleeding. Anyone feel free to correct or disprove this as I have not done it myself.
Remove the slave and leave the hose connected and pull it up through the engine compartment after removing the master cyl. from the firewall.
Attach the new hose to the new master and slave cyl. and clock the hose in the same position as the old.
Bench bleed and send the slave cyl back through the same way it came out.
May or may not be a good idea, but if anyone tries it, write about it as I should think about changing my stuff out.
I also have speed bleeders on all calipers of the 3 cars, helps when bleeding brakes by yourself.

 

You can't do that on the stock setup. If you replace the hard brake line with a flexible hose then it is possible, at least according to this post:
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...nder-hose.html

 

Not to nick pick but please don't let the starter hang by the wires. Get a long zip tie and find a spot on the drivers side to strap it to.

Not to disagree with Van...but I don't see how you will remove the arm clip off the master without getting under the dash.

I'm 6'4" and about 220. I have done this several times and never remove the drivers seat. However, a couple of Motrin will be needed for the back pain that follows.