LS swap in works
#16
Shameful plug. I have some left over parts from my conversion like a PCM that is already programmed for the conversion that didn't work with my harness and some other assorted items. If you go through with this conversion and have any interest let me know.
#17
Drifting
Hey, Doc, what's the weight differential between the L33 (ALUMINUM) and the standard NA engine? Can you still use the original speedo/tach cluster? Do you have to do any body mods around the bell housing area?
#18
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My guess is heavier than an NA motor, and fairly close to a turbo. My build is a little different than most because it is a 100% track car, no interior, no wiring, no headlights, no AC, no nothing. Car will be around 2500lbs. Everything is starting from scratch.... Just motor....seats......gauges, etc. I will weigh the motor once it is fully dressed and ready to install, which will still be awhile as I need to round up F body accessories, etc. It is essentially the same as the LS1s dimension wise, so that doesn't really change at all over the other swaps. You obviously can't us the L33 intake, etc.
#20
Drifting
Well I was doing some research and the NA motor is just under 400# and the L33 (aluminum 5.3L V8) is purported to be just over 150lbs vs the cast iron block which is 65% heavier. Seem like the L33 vs the LS1 might be a better candidate for a street car. Not interested in track use. I'm wondering if the weight quoted was just the block or for the engine, but I did specify the engine in the research. With a lower weight up front I found it interesting that one poster who was track testing his car stated that his car was pushing (understeer). With higher power and more weight to the rear I would have expected of seeing oversteer, which is better, I think.
#23
I found these weights. The LS6 is basically the same block as the L33 so the weight would be close.
LS6 dressed = 382 (w/o clutch) 420 (w/clutch)
944 dressed = 366 (dry w/o clutch) 410 (as running)
LM4 is another good option for a motor with aluminum block and heads. It can be found cheaper than the L33 and LS1/6/3.
LS6 dressed = 382 (w/o clutch) 420 (w/clutch)
944 dressed = 366 (dry w/o clutch) 410 (as running)
LM4 is another good option for a motor with aluminum block and heads. It can be found cheaper than the L33 and LS1/6/3.
#24
Drifting
Thanks for clarifying the info for me. Sounds like the aluminum block engine is the best candidate for the swap. Keeping the weight balance even was always a selling point in these cars.
#25
Just to mud it up a little. Xschop has a cast block motor that only weighs 60# more and he claims it helps to decrease the rear end from squatting so much under acceleration. The cast motors are much cheaper and easier to find, also.
#27
Rennlist Member
The cg in the engine is a honking big crankshaft. Hi Derron, and Happy New Year everybody. I've seen his car and it's awesome badass. Last summer I was in back on the deck and heard a rumble down the street getting louder and louder until it was barking in my driveway. He did a neat mod on the rear wing too. I've been working on my car pretty steady since the summer, concentrating on the headers. It went from scratch looking for high flow as equal length primaries are out of the question. It's pretty tedious work as it's trial and error in a confined space. I screwed up a pair of merge collectors along the way. The position of the collectors is real important for flow and clearance and today I finally got the position right, and thats the left side and about 20 hours work from start.
#29
Racer
The cg in the engine is a honking big crankshaft. Hi Derron, and Happy New Year everybody. I've seen his car and it's awesome badass. Last summer I was in back on the deck and heard a rumble down the street getting louder and louder until it was barking in my driveway. He did a neat mod on the rear wing too. I've been working on my car pretty steady since the summer, concentrating on the headers. It went from scratch looking for high flow as equal length primaries are out of the question. It's pretty tedious work as it's trial and error in a confined space. I screwed up a pair of merge collectors along the way. The position of the collectors is real important for flow and clearance and today I finally got the position right, and thats the left side and about 20 hours work from start.
Hi Jim, happy new year!!
Sounds like to you are almost there with those headers, still thinking of changing mine but that will have to wait for the spring. I actually just drove the car round the block, the power of that motor always leaves me stunned!!