Notices
924/931/944/951/968 Forum Porsche 924, 924S, 931, 944, 944S, 944S2, 951, and 968 discussion, how-to guides, and technical help. (1976-1995)
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

LS swap in works

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-01-2012, 01:02 PM
  #16  
arthropraxis
Burning Brakes
 
arthropraxis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 870
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Shameful plug. I have some left over parts from my conversion like a PCM that is already programmed for the conversion that didn't work with my harness and some other assorted items. If you go through with this conversion and have any interest let me know.
Old 01-01-2012, 01:35 PM
  #17  
mytrplseven
Drifting
 
mytrplseven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Orlando area
Posts: 2,654
Received 20 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

Hey, Doc, what's the weight differential between the L33 (ALUMINUM) and the standard NA engine? Can you still use the original speedo/tach cluster? Do you have to do any body mods around the bell housing area?
Old 01-01-2012, 02:15 PM
  #18  
PorscheDoc
Addict
Rennlist Member


Rennlist
Site Sponsor
 
PorscheDoc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Under Your Car
Posts: 8,059
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mytrplseven
Hey, Doc, what's the weight differential between the L33 (ALUMINUM) and the standard NA engine? Can you still use the original speedo/tach cluster? Do you have to do any body mods around the bell housing area?
My guess is heavier than an NA motor, and fairly close to a turbo. My build is a little different than most because it is a 100% track car, no interior, no wiring, no headlights, no AC, no nothing. Car will be around 2500lbs. Everything is starting from scratch.... Just motor....seats......gauges, etc. I will weigh the motor once it is fully dressed and ready to install, which will still be awhile as I need to round up F body accessories, etc. It is essentially the same as the LS1s dimension wise, so that doesn't really change at all over the other swaps. You obviously can't us the L33 intake, etc.
Old 01-01-2012, 05:25 PM
  #19  
arthropraxis
Burning Brakes
 
arthropraxis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 870
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

There are no body changes around the bellhousing. You can use the original speedometer and tachometer. The tach is a one wire hookup and the speedometer is independent.
Old 01-01-2012, 06:23 PM
  #20  
mytrplseven
Drifting
 
mytrplseven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Orlando area
Posts: 2,654
Received 20 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

Well I was doing some research and the NA motor is just under 400# and the L33 (aluminum 5.3L V8) is purported to be just over 150lbs vs the cast iron block which is 65% heavier. Seem like the L33 vs the LS1 might be a better candidate for a street car. Not interested in track use. I'm wondering if the weight quoted was just the block or for the engine, but I did specify the engine in the research. With a lower weight up front I found it interesting that one poster who was track testing his car stated that his car was pushing (understeer). With higher power and more weight to the rear I would have expected of seeing oversteer, which is better, I think.
Old 01-01-2012, 07:22 PM
  #21  
arthropraxis
Burning Brakes
 
arthropraxis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 870
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

No weight over the front tires to create the grip coupled a rearward weigh bias and relatively more grip in the back creates understeer.
Old 01-01-2012, 07:58 PM
  #22  
PorscheDoc
Addict
Rennlist Member


Rennlist
Site Sponsor
 
PorscheDoc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Under Your Car
Posts: 8,059
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

That must be block weight, because the complete L33 weighs a heck of a lot more than 150lbs.
Old 01-01-2012, 08:43 PM
  #23  
arthropraxis
Burning Brakes
 
arthropraxis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 870
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

I found these weights. The LS6 is basically the same block as the L33 so the weight would be close.
LS6 dressed = 382 (w/o clutch) 420 (w/clutch)
944 dressed = 366 (dry w/o clutch) 410 (as running)

LM4 is another good option for a motor with aluminum block and heads. It can be found cheaper than the L33 and LS1/6/3.
Old 01-02-2012, 08:53 AM
  #24  
mytrplseven
Drifting
 
mytrplseven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Orlando area
Posts: 2,654
Received 20 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

Thanks for clarifying the info for me. Sounds like the aluminum block engine is the best candidate for the swap. Keeping the weight balance even was always a selling point in these cars.
Old 01-02-2012, 09:37 AM
  #25  
arthropraxis
Burning Brakes
 
arthropraxis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 870
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Just to mud it up a little. Xschop has a cast block motor that only weighs 60# more and he claims it helps to decrease the rear end from squatting so much under acceleration. The cast motors are much cheaper and easier to find, also.
Old 01-02-2012, 04:39 PM
  #26  
acorad
Racer
 
acorad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Agoura Hills, CA
Posts: 296
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

...and I believe the cg of the LS engine is lower and further back than the oem na/turbo.
Old 01-02-2012, 10:53 PM
  #27  
JimV8
Rennlist Member
 
JimV8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Ontario
Posts: 26,362
Received 495 Likes on 354 Posts
Default

The cg in the engine is a honking big crankshaft. Hi Derron, and Happy New Year everybody. I've seen his car and it's awesome badass. Last summer I was in back on the deck and heard a rumble down the street getting louder and louder until it was barking in my driveway. He did a neat mod on the rear wing too. I've been working on my car pretty steady since the summer, concentrating on the headers. It went from scratch looking for high flow as equal length primaries are out of the question. It's pretty tedious work as it's trial and error in a confined space. I screwed up a pair of merge collectors along the way. The position of the collectors is real important for flow and clearance and today I finally got the position right, and thats the left side and about 20 hours work from start.
Old 01-04-2012, 07:33 PM
  #28  
harrisonrick
Captain Obvious
Rennlist Member
 
harrisonrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,420
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Hey Jim...I'll have to check out your project too...you're not that far away from me....perhaps we'll have a GTG in the spring.
Old 01-04-2012, 09:39 PM
  #29  
pormgb
Racer
 
pormgb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: San Diego California
Posts: 264
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by JimV8
The cg in the engine is a honking big crankshaft. Hi Derron, and Happy New Year everybody. I've seen his car and it's awesome badass. Last summer I was in back on the deck and heard a rumble down the street getting louder and louder until it was barking in my driveway. He did a neat mod on the rear wing too. I've been working on my car pretty steady since the summer, concentrating on the headers. It went from scratch looking for high flow as equal length primaries are out of the question. It's pretty tedious work as it's trial and error in a confined space. I screwed up a pair of merge collectors along the way. The position of the collectors is real important for flow and clearance and today I finally got the position right, and thats the left side and about 20 hours work from start.

Hi Jim, happy new year!!

Sounds like to you are almost there with those headers, still thinking of changing mine but that will have to wait for the spring. I actually just drove the car round the block, the power of that motor always leaves me stunned!!



Quick Reply: LS swap in works



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 02:37 AM.