PeteL

When cold, as in sitting idle over night or for a few hours, it takes my 86 na several tries to start.
First try...crank, no fire. Second try, same, maybe a sputter. Third try, sputter and die, fourth, start runs like crap, dies. Fifth try starts after extend cranking, sputters stays running, idle smooths out after twenty seconds. Once running, it goes like a scalded cat.
New fuel pump check valve, injectors, and fuel pressure regulator. All recently installed in an attempt to fix this issue.
It really feels like a fuel issue.

Paulyy

put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail. if theres pressure when you're starting it, it could be the injectors or it's not a fuel issue.

look at spark issues.
cap + rotor
spark plugs
leads
coil

grounding could be bad on the coil.

PeteL

Cap, rotor, plugs are all new with rebuild. Wires are not that old. Injectors brand new.
Coil could use checking.
May also look at speed and reference sensors.

PeteL

Any votes for fuel pump, or ref sensor?

xsboost90

i would say regulator but you said its new. Once i had this problem with my turbo, the vac. line to the regulator was pulled off and it was running super rich and at start up it would take a few tries then stutter real bad until it warmed up. Check vac to the regulator. Also make sure the TPS is closing all the way and the AFM is sweeping smoothly not catching.

PeteL

I will check all. The reg is new, vac lines are new as well with the rebuild, but I will trace that vac line to be sure it is connected. Fiddled with the TPS this weekend, clicks etc as it should.

Really feels like fuel. But I have to stop chasing the problem with parts.

wesmc3

were you running fine and then had the problem start suddenly.

PeteL

I just got the car back from an engine rebuild, we had a rough idle after start, that would smooth out after 30 seconds or so...then, it seems all of the sudden, I started having this problem a few weeks after the car got back. Nothing comes to mind if something changed.
It seems like it doesn't have enough fuel to get started. It takes the same number of tries to start regardless of outside temp, etc.
When the car got back from the engine rebuild it fired right up.

MAGK944

First place I would look for the cold idle problem is the dme temp switch or the O2 sensor. As to the cut out, do this check:

Remove the passenger floorboard and remove the dme from it without disconnecting it. Then try to start the car while tapping the dme.

If you noticed a difference it could be the power resistors in the dme detaching from the circuit board. Quite common and an easy fix.

ballysdad

I vote dme temp switch and to make sure both vacuum lines are attatched. They come off and hard to notice because they sit just out of eye sight on top.

Sentinelist

(if it comes down to the ignition coil by chance, PM me as I just replaced a good OE coil and can't send the new one back)

Paulyy

check for spark at the spark plugs. to rule out the spark.

Simple test. either pull a plug or find an old one that works and connect it to a lead from a spark plug. Crank and watch for a spark

PeteL

DME temp sensor is new. Replaced with rebuild, also reads same resistance as a spare. I assume that's the same as the Temp Switch. All vac lines were replaced with the rebuild, but will check them again.

PeteL

I have spark. The car starts, after several tries. Once the idle smooths out (30 seconds?) it runs like a scalded cat.

PeteL

It doesn't cut out. When the car will not start, it sputters and dies.
So far, has not stalled once running, what we have here is a car that is difficult to start.