"lil mule" supercharged 944 project thread
#16
Rainman
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i found an alternator (100 amp even!) off a volvo 940(iirc) that, with a teeny bit of grinding, will hang on the PS pump bracket (obviously you remove PS for this) and you can drive it with the v-belt...
#17
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Good to hear you still had the compressor attached, and thanks V2 on the volvo tip for the alternator, Joshua at Rogue suggested getting rid of the power steering pump.
How did you drive the compressor direct from the alternator belt or with extra belt driven from a second pulley on the alternator?
I agree this is going to be FUN.
How did you drive the compressor direct from the alternator belt or with extra belt driven from a second pulley on the alternator?
I agree this is going to be FUN.
#18
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Spencer, can you get us a little bit more info on the alternator you found that fits in-place of the power steering pump? Like what year of vehicle, double-check the model, engine, ect.
#19
Rainman
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I will check it when I get back to San Diego next week. Like I said, it needs some modification and IIRC may need a small spacer to fit nicely in the early PS bracket. But it looks good from my mockups. I am working on a tensioner setup for it as well.
#20
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can't you just use a rod similiar to the ac tensioner? I'd be very interested in how you do this as i am planning on using the v pulley for my alternator on this car.
#21
Rainman
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thats what i hope to do but attaching it is a problem, the volvo alt has the same offset ears like the porsche alt so the lower ear is on the wrong side.
another thing to be noted here is pulley sizes...the stock porsche crank pulley is like 5.3" and the alt pulley is 2.5 or something so like a 2:1 ratio. the PS crank pulley and the pulley on the volvo alt is more like 1.5:1, although it is 100 amps rated (though i checked with local alt shop, they can rebuild it to 130amp no problem)
another thing to be noted here is pulley sizes...the stock porsche crank pulley is like 5.3" and the alt pulley is 2.5 or something so like a 2:1 ratio. the PS crank pulley and the pulley on the volvo alt is more like 1.5:1, although it is 100 amps rated (though i checked with local alt shop, they can rebuild it to 130amp no problem)
#22
Three Wheelin'
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Be careful going for an alternator rewind for higher output, as often it's a trade off for idle output. I made this mistake many years ago. I needed more output due to a large stereo system, in an old car, so got a rewire. When this didn't help, I got it rewound for even more output, and still had a problem.
In a car mostly driven in stop start traffic, what the alt puts out at idle or near idle is far more important than what it puts out at highway/freeway speeds. As we can have heavy demands with wipers, lights, AC, RW demisters, stereo's, etc, combined with engine management, fuel injection, etc, then the need for high output at low RPM is critical. I eventually sourced a Bosch unit from a late model fuel injected car that put out 40 amps at near idle, and 100ish at high RPM, which was perfect for my needs.
Some ppl had tried using rewound alts with smaller pulleys to get them to put out more at low RPM, but this leads to a dramatically shorter life as Alt is always working hard and the bearings go.
See if you can see an output graph for the alt and talk to your auto elec about low RPM output. I think you will find they have no idea about it, as traditionally the only ppl going for rewinds are 4wd cars who are always at highways speeds.
Bosch also make a cop/ambulance spec alt that has even higher output at low RPM(60amp at near idle, and 160amp at higher RPM), which would e a good option if it can be made to fit, as it is designed to run all the extras, plus the car, even if car is stopped at the scene of crime/accident etc.
Anyway our cars needs are not the same as many cars of the same era, and are much like many newer cars, so swapping out the alt to just what fits may not be ideal
peace
Cyberpunky
In a car mostly driven in stop start traffic, what the alt puts out at idle or near idle is far more important than what it puts out at highway/freeway speeds. As we can have heavy demands with wipers, lights, AC, RW demisters, stereo's, etc, combined with engine management, fuel injection, etc, then the need for high output at low RPM is critical. I eventually sourced a Bosch unit from a late model fuel injected car that put out 40 amps at near idle, and 100ish at high RPM, which was perfect for my needs.
Some ppl had tried using rewound alts with smaller pulleys to get them to put out more at low RPM, but this leads to a dramatically shorter life as Alt is always working hard and the bearings go.
See if you can see an output graph for the alt and talk to your auto elec about low RPM output. I think you will find they have no idea about it, as traditionally the only ppl going for rewinds are 4wd cars who are always at highways speeds.
Bosch also make a cop/ambulance spec alt that has even higher output at low RPM(60amp at near idle, and 160amp at higher RPM), which would e a good option if it can be made to fit, as it is designed to run all the extras, plus the car, even if car is stopped at the scene of crime/accident etc.
Anyway our cars needs are not the same as many cars of the same era, and are much like many newer cars, so swapping out the alt to just what fits may not be ideal
peace
Cyberpunky
#23
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Update; no pics
Went to start it and no fuel pressure, removed the relay and added the jumper and checked voltage at teh pump and wouldn't you know it wasn't working. Installed my HV pump I just took out of my black car and voila fired right up.
Oil pressure is 3 bar at idle even with 10w 30 break in oil.
Just did a quick fire up to make sure everything was hooked up right. Ithen added coolant and ran it at 2k for about 10 minutes. It is uncapped runnign a long tube header so I'm sure the neighbors loved me. It actually was not quite as bad at higher rpm compared to idle. This engine is very close to 11:1 so it's pretty loud. Oil presure looked good throughout and the temp stayed pretty low.
At this point it is just running NA with the custom manifold using the late dme and afm. I am planning on breaking the engine in without the blower first to make sure it does it's job before adding stress to it.
Josh may have a test Sd tune by the time I get it broke in so that will be the next step.
So far I'm pretty happy that it is going together easily.
I will be making my final intercooler pipes tomorrow night for the 951, so the gold car won't get any attention. It is making some progress though, so much better than the last couple years
Went to start it and no fuel pressure, removed the relay and added the jumper and checked voltage at teh pump and wouldn't you know it wasn't working. Installed my HV pump I just took out of my black car and voila fired right up.
Oil pressure is 3 bar at idle even with 10w 30 break in oil.
Just did a quick fire up to make sure everything was hooked up right. Ithen added coolant and ran it at 2k for about 10 minutes. It is uncapped runnign a long tube header so I'm sure the neighbors loved me. It actually was not quite as bad at higher rpm compared to idle. This engine is very close to 11:1 so it's pretty loud. Oil presure looked good throughout and the temp stayed pretty low.
At this point it is just running NA with the custom manifold using the late dme and afm. I am planning on breaking the engine in without the blower first to make sure it does it's job before adding stress to it.
Josh may have a test Sd tune by the time I get it broke in so that will be the next step.
So far I'm pretty happy that it is going together easily.
I will be making my final intercooler pipes tomorrow night for the 951, so the gold car won't get any attention. It is making some progress though, so much better than the last couple years
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#24
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#25
Rainman
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Found my Volvo alternator. 14V-100A. It is ever so slightly smaller than the Quest alternator I had once before.
It is OEM (this one has a Volvo sticker on it). Made by Nippondenso. Part numbers on it are
3544119
100211-8632
It does come with a v-pulley but I swapped to a different v-pulley from another Volvo model (can't recall which, sorry) because it stuck out further.
Sid, I'm excited to see your bracket. I am painting my car first but the boost itch is coming back...I feel I will soon instead bolt on 951 exhaust parts and a K26.
It is OEM (this one has a Volvo sticker on it). Made by Nippondenso. Part numbers on it are
3544119
100211-8632
It does come with a v-pulley but I swapped to a different v-pulley from another Volvo model (can't recall which, sorry) because it stuck out further.
Sid, I'm excited to see your bracket. I am painting my car first but the boost itch is coming back...I feel I will soon instead bolt on 951 exhaust parts and a K26.
Last edited by V2Rocket; 07-07-2011 at 12:43 AM.
#27
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#28
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Spencer, I found it and I'll pm you a pic of it and the idler
Max, actually that is the smaller intercooler for the gold car I had already installed the bigger one in the black car. I just needed to do the pipes, which I did tonight.
![](http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l139/mojospops/ic5.jpg)
![](http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l139/mojospops/ic3.jpg)
here is a quick video I took of the gold car running prior to going over to make the IC pipes. The higher compression sure does give it a different sound uncapped.
http://s95.photobucket.com/albums/l1...nginesound.mp4
![](http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l139/mojospops/ic5.jpg)
![](http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l139/mojospops/ic3.jpg)
here is a quick video I took of the gold car running prior to going over to make the IC pipes. The higher compression sure does give it a different sound uncapped.
http://s95.photobucket.com/albums/l1...nginesound.mp4
Last edited by blown 944; 07-07-2011 at 04:29 AM.
#29
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some progress:
got the supercharger mounted up. Decided to use the mount I made to add on the alternator as well. Should be pretty easy as soon as I find the appropriate small alternator.
Engine has been starting and running fine with the temporary afm hookup.
One big snag ... It has a leak out of the rear main seal. I am a little pissed about that. It seems to drip more after shutdown than while running. I'm going to pull the torque tube this weekend and pulll all the clutch stuff too. Fortunately I thought ahead and notched the bellhousing for the s/r sensors..
a couple pics of the supercharger mounted, please forgive the mess, it's a work in progress..
![](http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l139/mojospops/superchargermounted2.jpg)
got the supercharger mounted up. Decided to use the mount I made to add on the alternator as well. Should be pretty easy as soon as I find the appropriate small alternator.
Engine has been starting and running fine with the temporary afm hookup.
One big snag ... It has a leak out of the rear main seal. I am a little pissed about that. It seems to drip more after shutdown than while running. I'm going to pull the torque tube this weekend and pulll all the clutch stuff too. Fortunately I thought ahead and notched the bellhousing for the s/r sensors..
a couple pics of the supercharger mounted, please forgive the mess, it's a work in progress..
![](http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l139/mojospops/superchargermounted2.jpg)
![](http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l139/mojospops/superchargermounted.jpg)
#30
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here is a quick video I took of the gold car running prior to going over to make the IC pipes. The higher compression sure does give it a different sound uncapped.
http://s95.photobucket.com/albums/l1...nginesound.mp4
http://s95.photobucket.com/albums/l1...nginesound.mp4