BlackOp

I just realized Pelican sent me 3 Mahle OC47 filters.....WTF? I changed my oil 3 weeks ago but the forecast is super cold this week. I used 20w50 for a road trip and want to switch to Rotella for winter.

It is OK to re-use my filter for about another 1000 miles? I need to do this tomorrow..

kenkawai993

Go for it, I don't think 1000 miles will do any harm.

odurandina

love your avatar...

even as good as Rotella is, i wouldn't dare use a conventional oil in the winter..... not after researching how little protection they offer during winter start-ups...... i'm running 0w-40 synthetic and i'm in miami - and this stuff still isn't thin enough at startup in January..... if you want the protetion the Rotella offers after full warm up, consider running either straight Mobil 1 0w-40 or a mix of Mobil 1 0w-40 with a couple of quarts of Mobil 1 0w-50 Racing Oil.... the 0w-50 is 16 dollars a quart and must be special ordered but it offers the most protection money can buy for cold winter starts.

best wishes.

BlackOp

What is the best non-synthetic winter oil? What weight...0w and then the heaviest available? 10w40....I need to do this tomorrow as it is supposed to get down to -3 at night.

944V8inDFW

BlackOp

Ha...didnt want to make this an oil debate. SO...I guess it's fine to re-use my filter.

n_hall

i'm 90% sure i have 2 new ones in my garage, if you want to make the drive out to elk grove to pick it up you can have one.

if you do shoot me a text 6303376772

n_hall

just checked. i have the oc-142. it's yours, just let me know.

V2Rocket

0 weight is asking for trouble in anything above absolutely freezing weather...

16 dollars a quart is about 5 times as much as a decent, proven oil should actually cost you...look for the bright yellow bottles.

FRporscheman

Use the old filter, there will be no problems.

odurandina

Mobil 1 doesn't make a 0 weight oil for any automobile.... 0w-40 is 40 weight oil that flows at -20 C. how they determine that to = a "zero," i can't really say. in any case, show me a documented engine failure with the new, high technology oils from Mobil 1 in the normal to spirited driving range.... these oils are nothing like multi-grade conventional oils which can go bad within the first 1,000 miles, and foul up your engine with sludge after their thin carbon chains burn off.... anyway, i'm getting out of the oilwar room for at least the next several weeks.


gallery with a sigh of relief in 3.... 2.... 1.....

Mark944na86

With regard to asking for trouble, it's not the 0W that matters, it's the higher number. Anything less than 40 is asking for trouble, summer or winter.

As with any oil, a 0W-40 oil is thicker when cold than when hot. So even in summer, a 0W-40 oil is *thicker* on start-up than when the engine is hot. And it never gets "thinner" than 40 weight, even when hot. So a 0W is never "too thin" to cause damage, unless the warm number is less than 40 (for our cars).

The only difference between a 0W-40 and a 10W-40 will be when the engine is cold (not yet up to full operating temp). In colder weather particularly, the 0W will be thinner at start-up (and giving better protection).

Edit: BTW, the "W" number stands for "Winter", and refers to *temperature*, not "weight". The second number refers to "weight" (i.e., viscosity at full operating temp.)

BlackOp

Thanks...very cool of you to offer. I think I will just use this one for now...

odurandina

thank you. that's surely, most of the problem. the SAE put that "w" in there, never understanding that people wouldn't bother to rtfm.... and no matter what you tell them, as bob they oil guy also explains, they just can't accept that the "0w" in "0w-40" is a winter rating. doesn't stand for weight or even temperature.

it's just a rating scale that is adjusted up and down to loosely follow a scale of temperature.... that "0w" in a synthetic oil stands for "my **** can flow, albeit not perfectly, even when it's very, very cold."

but instead, people assume that if it's thin way down there, it's got to be WAY too thin up there, like what happens to conventional oil.... but synthetic just doesn't work that way... the lubricating properties of homogenous oil molecules once stirred at operating temperature are completely different.... M1 0w-40 is nothing more than a straight, 40 weight oil that flows like a 0 weight conventional oil flows in the range of the temperatures that our cars will see.

but, the "5w" in a conventional oil, stand's for "my **** is so thin, that i actually flow when it's cold, but please don't put me in your engine. maybe you can mix it into your chain saw fuel but not in your 944."

people refuse to learn that synthetic oil has basically a billion quadrillion of all the same cloned molecules. look at the spectroscopy of an LED light -- just a few colors present. now look at the spectroscopy of an incandescent light -- every color in the rainbow quantized at hundreds of differernt energy levels... go look. itls a bell curve.

same thing with conventional oil. a bell curve with a huge mix of the good and less-good. some of the not-so-good, if it were to be homogenized, would appear almost, to pour like transmission fluid, and my guess is that it's left in there for a couple of reasons.

1. to transport the useful oil around the vital engine parts before they reach their proper operating temperature.

2. becuase the further you refine the oil, the more expensive refinement becomes.


the analogy of synthetic to conventional oil is about the same..... with conventional oil you've got several hundred if not thousands of different shaped molecules inside the bottle. when you start beating on these molecules, some of them join together to make bigger molecules, more akin to gear oil.... others split in half and burn off. in 750 miles you no longer have the same oil. it's changed from a multigrade into milk and sludge. neither of which is doing a very good job of lubricating vital engine parts. if it did, you wouldn't need to change it after only 3,500 miles, the margin for error would be far greater.

so, what's going on with synthetic oil ? i don't exactly know why but it holds together on the order of not a just few times longer, but dozens of times longer....and most important, a synthetic oil at operating temperature flows better than the equivalent straight, 40 weight conventional oil when it's COLD.

the M1 extended performance oils are actually, cheaper than conventional oils becuase they can go about 25,000 miles, despite that Mobil 1 suggests changing after 15,000 miles. they can say the true number, (a number closer to 35,000 rather htan 15,000), but at some point, every engine, will see it's oil become contaminated with acids and harmful solids....


the preblem with synthetic oil isn't the oil breaking down at all... it's contamination.




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qo3kc...eature=related

Mike C.

I'm not sure I would trust re-using the oil filter gasket (seal ring).