tecart

i'm trying to fix my maf kit and its positions so i can get the hood to close 100% perfect and also need a little more room for the big k and n filter on the 944 turbo with the maf#4 kit, i do know that if i didnt have the stock driver side headlight bracket there id be all set, can i cut it off and have the headlight go up without not having a stopper now? like i thought that bracket stops the headlight from going up too far because at the bottom of the bracket there is a long screw with a rubber plug that hits sheetmetal to hold it up while driveing at night, this stops the headlight from bouncing around and opening up too far right? so if i can cut this part off or unbolt it ill have a ton of room in that area to do all kinds of stuff for my maf kit testing and adjusting, and my hood will close without being up 1 inch on that side, so who has do this and how does it work at night? pics? ideas on if this would work, thank you

Bob S. 1984 Silver

I wouldn't recommend it. Tat bracket does what you described, setting a limit and providing a hard stop to keep the light steady and aligned. Without it, hitting a bump could have you looking for airplanes or worse yet if the motor's internal limit switches failed the headlight buckets could conceivably be damaged.

Good luck with the installation.

Bob S.

David Floyd

Unless there is a problem with your pipes it will fit without cutting anything or touching the hood, my MAF #4 does anyway. Keep moving the pipes you should find the right combo that works.

<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" /> <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />

Danno

On my MAF4 kit, I had to cut and shorten about 2" worth of hoses to place the back edge of the K&N filter as close as possible and parallel to the coolant tank. This keeps the filter as far away from the headlights as possible. I've got procedure with photos on my website: <a href="http://members.rennlist.com/951_racerx" target="_blank">951 RacerX website</a>

Luke

I plan on removing my headlamps entirely. I dont think I'll be replacing them either. I'll get a headlamp-less nose panel. If it's thta nasty, I make a bracket and install the strosek light kit

Skip

This is hard to describe, but I have seen the bracket deleted and another stop added to the underside of the bezel. Some sheet aluminum and few well placed bends... a double-nut and rubber-ended bolt as before and you have the same thing, but attached below the lamp housing and it *bump-stops* off the front bumper. That bracket does not determine the stopping point for the lights (that's controlled by the limits in the motor)... it's there to keep them from flipping back at speed.

I may do this soon (soon as I get the $%#@& 300 pounds of goo out of my stripped interior... I finally found a job more frustrating than the snap ring, and more labor intensive than the clutch )

Good Luck!

Skip

Luke

[quote]Originally posted by Skip:
<strong>
I may do this soon (soon as I get the $%#@& 300 pounds of goo out of my stripped interior</strong><hr></blockquote>


Have you resorted to a dye grinder yet


Take it easy

Danno

I'm thinking about replacing my headlight mechanisms with Toyota parts. Been looking at mid-'80s Supras and Corollas. They don't have that funky arm in the back and each headlight is directly actuated with its own small motor (about the size of a hockey puck with a packet of cigaretts on top). Should save me about 10lbs too...

Skip

Ha!

Even better... connect a cable and pull mechanism, run it to the cockpit. Saves the weight of the hockey pucks Oh great... another homebrew that'll get strange looks <img src="graemlins/oops.gif" border="0" alt="[oops]" />

Skip

Danno

Ever seen the inside door handle in a Ferrari F-40? Talk about funky homebrew...