what is the most critical repair
#1
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what is the most critical repair
I have owned my car for several months now, but im just now driving it almost daily, I have no records for the car. I was wondering what all should i do as far as maint. to keep the car from having a critical breakdown. I need to solve my hot start problem and was wondering how to diagnose it. Other than that the car currently runs great. Any repleys are greatly appreciated.
#2
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The most important piece of regular maintainance are the belts and water pump. If you have no idea when they were replaced I would consider doing it (unfortunately $$$$$$$$$). After or with that check for leaks and the brake pads.
There is a whole list on the FAQ site. Good luck.
There is a whole list on the FAQ site. Good luck.
#3
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Ditto on the waterpump, rollers and belts, while you're in there, do the seals too. If you do the work yourself, parts will be about $400. If Hans und Fritz do it, count on labor of about $1k. I think that should be a real motivator right there.
Hot start could be a couple of things, flaky DME or bad fuel pump check valve, or fuel pressure regulator. Get a copy of both Haynes and the factory manuals for troubleshooting procedures.
HTH
Dave
Hot start could be a couple of things, flaky DME or bad fuel pump check valve, or fuel pressure regulator. Get a copy of both Haynes and the factory manuals for troubleshooting procedures.
HTH
Dave
#4
Done With Sidepatch
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Double ditto on the belts (timing and balance shaft), roller and water pump...Might as well replace the seals as they are staring you in the face at that point...
If the belts go it gets ugly and expensive real quick...
If the belts go it gets ugly and expensive real quick...
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Belts are the most important.
They must be replaced every 30,000 miles. Once replaced, they must be retensioned after 1,500 miles and should be re-checked at 15,000 miles.
If you throw a belt you WILL bend all of your exhaust valves. $2k to 4k depending on if you do it yourself or not.
After that it is all just routine maintenance (oil change/tune up/filters/brakes/etc.)or repairing any worn out item.
They must be replaced every 30,000 miles. Once replaced, they must be retensioned after 1,500 miles and should be re-checked at 15,000 miles.
If you throw a belt you WILL bend all of your exhaust valves. $2k to 4k depending on if you do it yourself or not.
After that it is all just routine maintenance (oil change/tune up/filters/brakes/etc.)or repairing any worn out item.
#6
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Napoleon
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Napoleon
I'm getting the impresion generally that the timing belt and balance shaft are something to keep an eye on.
#7
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I would say the belts and rollers, or maybe the rollers and belts.
Don't forget the water pump too, which is basically one of the rollers, only it pumps water.
Don't forget the water pump too, which is basically one of the rollers, only it pumps water.
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#8
Three Wheelin'
I feel oil cooler seals rank 2nd to belts. When they go bad, coolant and oil mix....something you DO NOT want happening if you like your car.
Tom
'87 951
'86.5 Supra
Tom
'87 951
'86.5 Supra
#9
[quote]Originally posted by 94415atocrosswanabe:
<strong>...I need to solve my hot start problem and was wondering how to diagnose it. Other than that the car currently runs great.</strong><hr></blockquote>What does the tach do while you're cranking the engine when it's hot and won't start? Does it reflect cranking speed (bouncing up off zero, a couple hundred RPM), or does it sit there like a dead thing? If it's a dead thing, you might find that one or both of the flywheel position sensors are misadjusted. These tell the DME how fast (or if) the engine is turning, and when it passes TDC. If the DME doesn't think the engine is turning (as evidenced by the dead tach), nothing else controlled by the DME will happen either (spark, fuel, etc.). I had a similar problem when I got my '84 944na, such that after the engine had run, been turned off and the engine compartment had "heat soaked" for a few minutes, the temperature rise caused the (critical!) sensor gap dimension to change just enough that there was "no start" until things had cooled down. This was usually about 15 minutes after I opened the hood and started messing with stuff... none of which helped but usually seemed to burn my hands in some way or another. Once I finally figured out what was going on and adjusted the sensor gaps, the proplem never re-occurred.
Good luck!
Dan
<strong>...I need to solve my hot start problem and was wondering how to diagnose it. Other than that the car currently runs great.</strong><hr></blockquote>What does the tach do while you're cranking the engine when it's hot and won't start? Does it reflect cranking speed (bouncing up off zero, a couple hundred RPM), or does it sit there like a dead thing? If it's a dead thing, you might find that one or both of the flywheel position sensors are misadjusted. These tell the DME how fast (or if) the engine is turning, and when it passes TDC. If the DME doesn't think the engine is turning (as evidenced by the dead tach), nothing else controlled by the DME will happen either (spark, fuel, etc.). I had a similar problem when I got my '84 944na, such that after the engine had run, been turned off and the engine compartment had "heat soaked" for a few minutes, the temperature rise caused the (critical!) sensor gap dimension to change just enough that there was "no start" until things had cooled down. This was usually about 15 minutes after I opened the hood and started messing with stuff... none of which helped but usually seemed to burn my hands in some way or another. Once I finally figured out what was going on and adjusted the sensor gaps, the proplem never re-occurred.
Good luck!
Dan