Previous oil unknown.... go with synthetic or mineral?
10-27-2010, 10:37 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
+1000 Hacker. This guy just spouts crap without any evidence apart from the same dross that M publishes with their shiny high tech brouchures etc.
Just to add to this. You don't need to be driving on the racetrack to create high oil temps and low pressure. Just traffic on a hot day will do it.
Also to note that the Porsche owner's manual shows in the most prominent part, that a 20w/50 is able to be used to -10c / 14f. So unless you drive your Cab
in very cold conditions I would be listening to the advice given by running a 20w/50 with plenty of ZDDP and lower detergent content.
Just to add to this. You don't need to be driving on the racetrack to create high oil temps and low pressure. Just traffic on a hot day will do it.
Also to note that the Porsche owner's manual shows in the most prominent part, that a 20w/50 is able to be used to -10c / 14f. So unless you drive your Cab
in very cold conditions I would be listening to the advice given by running a 20w/50 with plenty of ZDDP and lower detergent content.
10-27-2010, 10:44 PM
#35
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you just spewed one of the biggest common myths that all the oil white papers talk about....
amazing how much i'm hearing all the dynosaur knowledge from the dynosaur motor oil era.
Bob the oil guy:
"When you drive that car down the road mid-winter in upstate New York or mid-summer in Florida the engine and oil temperatures will be around 212 F. But your Florida vacation is suddenly altered by a hurricane. You have to get out of Tampa, but so do a million other people. It is now 95 F and you are in a snarl. Everyone thinks they need a thicker oil for this situation. This is false.
"Your engine is not producing much heat at low RPM and low BHP output. The production of heat is relatively slow. It can easily be transmitted to your cooling system. The problem is that your cooling system has trouble getting rid of the heat. The oil and the coolant will slowly rise in temperature. They both rise together. The increase is no big deal for your oil. It goes to 220, then 230 F. The problem is that the cooling system can only handle heat up to 230 F. After that you overheat the cooling system and the car must be shut off. The oil never got that hot, It was just that the water got a little hotter than its system design."
nobody's talking about running the thick 0w-40 synthetic in the summer anyway.
we mostly all run 50 weight oils during the summer. a few guys run 15w-40 synthetic and conventional oils then.
two january's ago near Boston, we had about 20 nights below -15 C. we had a few nights down to about -25 C.
a conventional 20w-50 motor oil will not flow at those temperatures at startup.
nobodys gonna blow an engine from running Mobil 1 0w-40 or 10w-40 Mobil 1 high milage synthetic during the winter months.
amazing how much i'm hearing all the dynosaur knowledge from the dynosaur motor oil era.
Bob the oil guy:
"When you drive that car down the road mid-winter in upstate New York or mid-summer in Florida the engine and oil temperatures will be around 212 F. But your Florida vacation is suddenly altered by a hurricane. You have to get out of Tampa, but so do a million other people. It is now 95 F and you are in a snarl. Everyone thinks they need a thicker oil for this situation. This is false.
"Your engine is not producing much heat at low RPM and low BHP output. The production of heat is relatively slow. It can easily be transmitted to your cooling system. The problem is that your cooling system has trouble getting rid of the heat. The oil and the coolant will slowly rise in temperature. They both rise together. The increase is no big deal for your oil. It goes to 220, then 230 F. The problem is that the cooling system can only handle heat up to 230 F. After that you overheat the cooling system and the car must be shut off. The oil never got that hot, It was just that the water got a little hotter than its system design."
nobody's talking about running the thick 0w-40 synthetic in the summer anyway.
we mostly all run 50 weight oils during the summer. a few guys run 15w-40 synthetic and conventional oils then.
two january's ago near Boston, we had about 20 nights below -15 C. we had a few nights down to about -25 C.
a conventional 20w-50 motor oil will not flow at those temperatures at startup.
nobodys gonna blow an engine from running Mobil 1 0w-40 or 10w-40 Mobil 1 high milage synthetic during the winter months.
10-27-2010, 10:51 PM
#36
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Wrong.
10-28-2010, 11:20 AM
#37
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Thanks ModdedEverything951S for the owner's manual image. I was thinking that this may clear things up for those that don't possess.
So are our cars.
New technology is great, but the lack of ZDDP that comes with the modern oils is a potential problem. Our cars were designed to run on the oil of-the-day. That is why adding ZDDP to the newer oils is important and worth serious consideration.
So are our cars.
New technology is great, but the lack of ZDDP that comes with the modern oils is a potential problem. Our cars were designed to run on the oil of-the-day. That is why adding ZDDP to the newer oils is important and worth serious consideration.
it seems the Mobil 1 people did indeed use some loophole to leave the high ZDDP in some of the oils.
the 0w-40 has the higher levels of the stuff you guys want in your oil.
the 15w-50 has even more w/ 1200 ppm phosphorus, and 1300 ppm zinc,
why ? because the oil is designed for Porsches ? apparently, the short answer would be yes,
read the comments next to the oils.... another myth busted.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf
scroll down and see the 3rd oil and the 8th oil on this PDF chart.
these are the two oils i run !! look at the numbers !! from Mobil 1 site:
http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/...otor_Oils.aspx
"The engine manufacturers are confident that this level of phosphorus will protect both new and older engines. However, there are Mobil 1 products which have a higher level of phosphorus (phos) and can be used in engines in racing or high performance applications...."
amazing.
10-28-2010, 11:32 AM
#38
Rainman
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have not gone QUITE that low in temp but i can tell you that off-any-shelf pennzoil 20w50 dinojuice will flow at 20*F without any issue. might be a good idea to pull the coil and let the motor prime itself before firing, but even without that, i have no noise on startup even in the coldest of cold california days, just smooth running.
10-28-2010, 11:40 AM
#39
Nordschleife Master
Was it really necessary to copy and paste this same post in 3 different threads? Or is that just what you do? Just because you can use Google and look up answers for questions asked does not mean you know what your talking about.. and its pretty clear from reading your posts you don't have a clue. Your posts are like stale milk, i know its gonna smell bad but i smell it anyway; In your case i know its going to be useless information and semantics but i just cant help reading it and wondering.
And can you please stop hitting the enter key after each new sentence, most people just continue on and form paragraphs by adding a space after a period. k? thanks bye.
And can you please stop hitting the enter key after each new sentence, most people just continue on and form paragraphs by adding a space after a period. k? thanks bye.
10-28-2010, 12:32 PM
#40
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actually, since you put it that way, i do have a clue. 3 years of chemistry UC San Diego. my university is ranked 14th in the world. http://www.arwu.org/ARWU2010.jsp
i have a lot to learn. i will try to keep learning from you guys about our cars.
i do, however, know there's a lot of snake oil being sold as facts about motor oils.
the oils i've been talking about had the high zddp all along. they're plenty stable, and thick enough to protect your engines during normal, sprited driving, even in in a traffic jam on the hottest day of the year. top off with the two specific oils i've been talking about and you're putting plenty of zddp back in your quarter of a century old engine, which in all likelihood will outlive you.
is the stuff as good as Redline, Amsoil, or Royal Purple. i have no idea. everyone seems to have their favorite. i like the mobil 1 because it comes in gallon jugs right off the shelf at Walmart.
if i was racing, i might use a 20w-50 synthetic. but i have not been talking about going racing. you're welcome to show me the documents that prove me where my posts have been wroing. have at it. and you can explain your complete theory on oils.
i have a lot to learn. i will try to keep learning from you guys about our cars.
i do, however, know there's a lot of snake oil being sold as facts about motor oils.
the oils i've been talking about had the high zddp all along. they're plenty stable, and thick enough to protect your engines during normal, sprited driving, even in in a traffic jam on the hottest day of the year. top off with the two specific oils i've been talking about and you're putting plenty of zddp back in your quarter of a century old engine, which in all likelihood will outlive you.
is the stuff as good as Redline, Amsoil, or Royal Purple. i have no idea. everyone seems to have their favorite. i like the mobil 1 because it comes in gallon jugs right off the shelf at Walmart.
if i was racing, i might use a 20w-50 synthetic. but i have not been talking about going racing. you're welcome to show me the documents that prove me where my posts have been wroing. have at it. and you can explain your complete theory on oils.
10-28-2010, 12:34 PM
#41
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Was it really necessary to copy and paste this same post in 3 different threads? Or is that just what you do? Just because you can use Google and look up answers for questions asked does not mean you know what your talking about.. and its pretty clear from reading your posts you don't have a clue. Your posts are like stale milk, i know its gonna smell bad but i smell it anyway; In your case i know its going to be useless information and semantics but i just cant help reading it and wondering.
And can you please stop hitting the enter key after each new sentence, most people just continue on and form paragraphs by adding a space after a period. k? thanks bye.
And can you please stop hitting the enter key after each new sentence, most people just continue on and form paragraphs by adding a space after a period. k? thanks bye.
Sour Milk
very accurate 
10-28-2010, 10:47 PM
#42
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I went to this site I read up about oil in general:
www.bobistheoilguy.com
If what is on there is true then what odurandina is actually correct which also agrees with Porsche's recommended oil list.
If this is not true then does anyone have evidence to the contrary that the explanation of oil ratings and dynamics on that site is false?
www.bobistheoilguy.com
If what is on there is true then what odurandina is actually correct which also agrees with Porsche's recommended oil list.
If this is not true then does anyone have evidence to the contrary that the explanation of oil ratings and dynamics on that site is false?