ernie9468

[QUOTE=J Berk;8005287]Glad you ask ,well take a look around you & you'll discover that at least 50% maybe more 944/na-951/S/S2 & 968 owners are running synthetic ,the reason why I said (most likely Synthetic).Personnally I've had nothing but success for 26 yrs running conventional 20w50 in my 944-2.5 & now doing the same in my 3.0- 93-968 witch started her life using conventional oil(now has over 50k miles & the motor is purring like a kitten) .Every 4 to 5K miles the oil & filter is change, that how I kept all of my Porsche alive since the 70s without having to open the motor on any one of them. So why should I change my way of doing thing after all them years. But will also like to add this, all off my cars were never use for racing (street & spirit driving only ) & maybe what work for me migth not for somebody else.But for normal real life driving this formula is sure working for me.

V2Rocket

synth oils werent really around for wide use in 1982 when the 944 motor was released, or 1976 when the 928 motor was designed...the motor was made for dinosaur blood, and there's nothing wrong with it...i do oil changes every 3 or 4 months regardless of mileage (although in that time frame i probably do over 4000miles) because its cheap...and it smells nice. i run about 8 qts total of oil between my 951 oil pan, my enormous oil cooler and my lines and drive the living ***** off my car everywhere i go.

i dont want to pay like $8/qt for mobil 1 which wont give me any noticeable benefit over dinosaur blood for my purposes.

fittrjoe

redline 10w 40 in my s2...does not burn or leak a drop.
87000 mi on motor

odurandina

doing my best to keep the oil wars going.... on the nff.



(no fun forum). royal purple guys showing off their lube.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqvhRi7-iMA&feature=fvw



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZxiD...eature=related

J Berk

I am at 203,000 miles....car is mostly a weekend and/or DE car.

In a full weekend at the track it will burn a quart of oil....under normal use it burns about 1/2 a quart in 4,000 miles or so.

No leaks.

I try to use valvoline racing oil...and have considered brad penn....but not switched yet.

so there you go....this is a full-on....here we go again.....OIL THREAD !

Dr Feelgood

So what does the Porsche dealership use when they change the oil???

Dr Feelgood

I was able to find this on the web:

Porsche approved oils 2009:
http://www.wrightune.co.uk/downloads/approved_oils.pdf

Porsche approved oils 2006:
http://kiyor32.cocolog-nifty.com/gt3...-List-2006.pdf

Being that our manual says use a porsche approved oil and these are basically the lists of approved oils for any 1984 or newer Porsche (with the exception of the Cayenne), should this not end the debate for oil in a non racing application???

Also this is from Exxon/Mobil detailing which Mobil 1 oils have Porsche (VW) approval, along with their Zinc/Phos concentrations:
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf

Anyone here work at a Porsche dealership and know what is used as the default oil?

hacker-pschorr

Well knock it off, in case you didn't notice, most everyone is ignoring your spam, cut/paste posts.

My 944S pissed out a rod bearing using 5w-50. Never tracked, never raced, only 100k on the odo.

Use all the thin base stock oil you want, just stop acting like a lonely drug user on the corner looking for some friends to share in the misery.

Who cares what the dealership uses? Most there have no idea what a 944 is.

I know for a fact one very large P-Car dealership will pour in their own locally blended "fleet" oil unless you ask for something specific. They do the same in their other shops too (Mercedes, Jaguar, BMW etc...)

This isn't rocket science:
1. Open up the owners manual, find the oil chart.
2. Pick the temperature conditions that most closely match the driving conditions you will see before your next oil change.
3. Buy an oil that matches that chart.

As for dino versus synthetic, it doesn't really matter as long as we are talking about a good dino oil (like Brad Penn). Most P-Cars change their oil based on time not mileage anyway, that is unless you are hell bent on going 10k-15k between oil changes.

odurandina

the oil i've listed isn't a thin base oil. and it's approved by Porsche.

http://www.wrightune.co.uk/downloads/approved_oils.pdf

hacker-pschorr

Do you even read your own links?

0W-X and 5w-X are the thinnest oils on the market.

You are buying a base stock (notice my post used this exact term) that is either zero or five weight. What's not thin about that compared to a 15 or 20 weight base stock????
Each has modifiers in them to make them act like the second number at 212F.
As the oil wears and ages, these modifiers start to brake down. How much so is another huge debate. This is the #1 reason why many feel running a really wide spread (like 5w-50) is a bad idea. The wider the spread the more modifiers are needed and the greater chance they will break down.

The same Porsche that has discontinued key safety parts for our cars like fuel lines?

I could care less what Porsche of 2010 recommends for a 30+ year old Porsche. I'm sticking with the chart in the owners manual.

Do what you want, it's your car. Just stop spamming every single oil thread with your constant cut/past jobs.

odurandina

you have it backwards. mineral oils are based the lower number and mimick thicker oils with the help of modifiers. not synthetics. synthitics mimic synthetics. they flow at ultra-cold temperatures due to their chemical properties.

Mobil 1 0w-40 is a 40 weight oil. Mobil 1 5w-30 is a 30 weight oil.

the 0w-40 is their best cold-weather oil.


you choose racing oil for you 944. nothing wrong with doing that, as i have also stated, (during warm weather).

but it's not going to flow well at cold temperatures.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKtxq...layer_embedded



the above video explained by Bob the oil guy... http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/in...=article&id=81

(Mobil 1's white papers explain it exactly the same).


Bob: "Let’s look at the make up of synthetic based oils. A 10W-30 synthetic oil is based on a 30 grade oil. This is unlike the counterpart mineral oil based on a 10 grade oil. There is no VI improver needed. The oil is already correct for the normal operating temperature of 212 F. It has a thickness of 10 while you drive to work. It will never thin yet has the same long term problem as the mineral based oil....

"Synthetic oils are derived in the laboratory. They are pure, usually nearly clear. I describe mineral based motor oils as a distilled, concentrated product. The impurities need to be removed from the raw petroleum. These oils are therefore less clean and contain many impurities."


all oil is a compromise.

Mobil 1 0w-40 is only on the slightest measurable viscosity thinner than a mineral 10w-50 or 15w-50 oil at 212 degrees.

because it's a synthethic, it offers protection that compares favorably to a 50 weight conventional oil.

and it has been shown to keep on protecting even after 15,000 miles. no breakdown.

am i right ? yes, i can't help it.

hacker-pschorr

I'm done arguing with you, and by the looks of other threads you grenaded so is everyone else.

I know the oil I pour into my Porsche's is correct, and it's not "racing oil". You should go do some more research and find out what really makes a true racing oil and why it's a bad idea to run them in a street car.

The really funny part of all this is you keep hammering "cold weather startup..." while most if not all 944 engines that have been lost due to a lubrication issue was not trying to fire up in December.

That video is hilarious. I've added non-synthetic oil to my car on a below 32 degree day. I have never never seen oil flow like that out of the bottle.

Nice Mobil 1 sponsored video...... Based on that clip, no car in Wisconsin ever started before the invention of synthetic motor oil.

smokin_944

I just knew this was gonna happen... Another oil thread. What are you guys on? Move to another beef already. I'm with Hacker-Pschorr 100%.

odurandina

i agree with what you are saying here 110 %. no argument.


Mobil 1 0w-40 is a 40 weight oil that doesn't have any of the chemical characteristics of conventional "wide spread" oil.


my october 4th post on the 968 forums:






it's the thinnest grade oil i've been talking about.

to repeat, because it's a synthethic, it offers protection that compares favorably to a 50 weight conventional oil, and it has been shown to keep on protecting even after 15,000 miles with no breakdown.


it has been demonstrated time and again that synthetics protect engines well past 15,000 miles.


Mobil 1 5w-50 is a true 50 weight oil. it's formulation allows flow at cold temperatures, thus the "5w."




i believe the 40 weight Mobil 1 synthetic oil is the biggest reason my engine is running like new after 125 k miles.

hacker-pschorr

I've seen the inside of 928 engines with far more miles that only saw 15 or 20w-50 that had rod / main bearings that looked like new.

Then you have my mothers old "winter beater" caddy. We sold that car with 215,000 miles on the odo and only driven in cold weather. Ran like new when sold, didn't burn any oil and never saw synthetic oil.