can not open rear hatch
#1
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I noticed that the rear hatch on the 944 was getting harder to open. I would put key in, turn and the pass side opens easy, but drivers side hard. Now it will not open at all on driver side. I now have a rear hatch I can not open and it rattles. How do I get this to open. Do I need to pull light out to get to this or what.
#2
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When my hatch got stuck a few years ago (because I botched the adjustment of the latches) I crawled into the hatch through the cabin and pulled down the carpeting along the back. This exposed the hatch release mechanism. I forgot exactly what I did, but I'm pretty sure I pulled on the tie rods back there (probably gripping them with pliers) and was able to release the hatch that way.
BB.
BB.
#3
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This worked for me and might work for others.
I crawled in the back and loosened the bolts to the receivers of the pins and then moved the receivers as far to the fenders side as I could push them with the hatch closed and the pins still in the receivers. I than retightened them and now I can open from the outside with the key again.
For two years I could not open the hatch with the key I could only open with the button inside the car. Now both ways work.
I crawled in the back and loosened the bolts to the receivers of the pins and then moved the receivers as far to the fenders side as I could push them with the hatch closed and the pins still in the receivers. I than retightened them and now I can open from the outside with the key again.
For two years I could not open the hatch with the key I could only open with the button inside the car. Now both ways work.
#4
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This worked for me... I got a special tool... you may call it a brick but I prefer an "unlocking apparatus" or the U.A. Tool for short.... Place duct tape on the outside of the projected area (hatch glass) for the tool and then the tool works in a one single motion format... Throw it directly on to the taped area and it's like magic your hatch is opened and you also gain a rear vent to transfer air directly through the cabin... 10whp increase
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#5
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Yep...crawl through to release it. Once it's open, clean the hatch pin receivers well and grease them liberally. Shouldn't have any issues for awhile after that. Now would also be a good time to reset the pins to make sure the hatch closes completely and evenly as well.
#6
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I will look at this later. I will crawl in and pull carpet. Funny I do have an extra rear hatch, so the brick idea is not out of the question yet...........
#7
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I fixed the hatch. First, I did not have to use the brick method. Less of a clean up the other way.
I pulled the carpet and unscrewed the mechanism. I had to screw in the mechanism so when I turned the key, it open the hole enough to allow the hatch to open properly. Ahhhhhhhhh, another job well done.
I pulled the carpet and unscrewed the mechanism. I had to screw in the mechanism so when I turned the key, it open the hole enough to allow the hatch to open properly. Ahhhhhhhhh, another job well done.
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#8
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Join Date: Feb 2009
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i couldn't get mine adjusted enough to work. i had to take the lock mech off. then using a round file, i had to file away at the hole the pins go through. the pins were going too far towards the center of the car. then re-installed at it's worked ever since. while i had the mechs off i also gave them a bath in liquid wrench.
#9
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I just replaced my hatch pins, the rubber mounting nut and hardware for about $30 at my local Porsche dealer. I adjusted the length of the hatch pins and I had to get the locks in the right position. The key is in adjusting the locking mechanisms as described in the link below and it worked like a charm for me.
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...h-problem.html
![](http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm171/pjstevens77/002.jpg)
![](http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm171/pjstevens77/001.jpg)
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...h-problem.html
![](http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm171/pjstevens77/002.jpg)
![](http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm171/pjstevens77/001.jpg)
![](http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm171/pjstevens77/003.jpg)
#10
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my prob is a little different but kinda the same...
ever since I had my frame straightened mine wont open. Ive pulled the drain covers off the bottom from the inside, moved the "black boxes" all around, sprayed in penetrating oil, checked the pushrods, checked the latch, pushed down from the outside and still nothing. Am I a candidate for the brick method? I could really use that extra hp. lol
is there a way to remove the recievers from the inside without destroying them?
ever since I had my frame straightened mine wont open. Ive pulled the drain covers off the bottom from the inside, moved the "black boxes" all around, sprayed in penetrating oil, checked the pushrods, checked the latch, pushed down from the outside and still nothing. Am I a candidate for the brick method? I could really use that extra hp. lol
is there a way to remove the recievers from the inside without destroying them?
#12
Rainman
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This worked for me and might work for others.
I crawled in the back and loosened the bolts to the receivers of the pins and then moved the receivers as far to the fenders side as I could push them with the hatch closed and the pins still in the receivers. I than retightened them and now I can open from the outside with the key again.
For two years I could not open the hatch with the key I could only open with the button inside the car. Now both ways work.
I crawled in the back and loosened the bolts to the receivers of the pins and then moved the receivers as far to the fenders side as I could push them with the hatch closed and the pins still in the receivers. I than retightened them and now I can open from the outside with the key again.
For two years I could not open the hatch with the key I could only open with the button inside the car. Now both ways work.
#13
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my prob is a little different but kinda the same...
ever since I had my frame straightened mine wont open. Ive pulled the drain covers off the bottom from the inside, moved the "black boxes" all around, sprayed in penetrating oil, checked the pushrods, checked the latch, pushed down from the outside and still nothing. Am I a candidate for the brick method? I could really use that extra hp. lol
is there a way to remove the recievers from the inside without destroying them?
ever since I had my frame straightened mine wont open. Ive pulled the drain covers off the bottom from the inside, moved the "black boxes" all around, sprayed in penetrating oil, checked the pushrods, checked the latch, pushed down from the outside and still nothing. Am I a candidate for the brick method? I could really use that extra hp. lol
is there a way to remove the recievers from the inside without destroying them?