rear hatch latch problem
#1
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rear hatch latch problem
'86 944: One of my rear hatch latches has started popping open when I go over a bump. First I hear it start to rattle a bit over small bumps, then one bump pops it open and the whole hatch starts rattling. It opens and closes properly, it looks exactly the same as the other latch that never pops open, I can't see anything obvious wrong with it, but it's driving me nuts! Is there a fix? If not, is it actually the latch that needs replacement or might it be something else in the release system that is actually the problem?
#2
Proprietoristicly Refined
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First look down the hatch pin receiver to see if you still have the rubber brown cone inside and it is not rotted or torn. Look at the attached picture. The rubber cone part is not available. The solution is a good used receiver.
If it is OK, your problem is the hatch pin receiver "claws" (2) that hold the hatch pin in place----are not centered---so both claws grab the hatch pin.
To get the claws centered, loosen slightly, just enough to make it move, the 2 10mm nuts on the hatch pin receiver-do not remove.
Twist the receiver CW or CCW-----very little----and watch how the hatch pin enters the receiver. Tighten and use the key to unlock the hatch. You may have to repeat a few times to get it right.
The last thing that may be the problem is weak hatch shocks. The problem gets worse if you replace the hatch shocks and the glass separates from the steel frame because the glue is old. This is a very difficult fix.
If it is OK, your problem is the hatch pin receiver "claws" (2) that hold the hatch pin in place----are not centered---so both claws grab the hatch pin.
To get the claws centered, loosen slightly, just enough to make it move, the 2 10mm nuts on the hatch pin receiver-do not remove.
Twist the receiver CW or CCW-----very little----and watch how the hatch pin enters the receiver. Tighten and use the key to unlock the hatch. You may have to repeat a few times to get it right.
The last thing that may be the problem is weak hatch shocks. The problem gets worse if you replace the hatch shocks and the glass separates from the steel frame because the glue is old. This is a very difficult fix.
#4
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Have you tried adjusting the receiver pin. Sometimes just turning them a bit will move the worn area enough so that it works as planned. I got replacements from sharky47 and they solved the problem.
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Many thanks for the suggestions. The brown cones are there in both receivers, and I've tried every pin adjustment from tight to loose with no effect, so I'll try the electric tape first (fastest) and move on to centering the receiver if that fails.
#6
Hey Man
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Sometimes all the receivers need is a good thorough cleaning and application of new white lithium grease. If they are gummed the claws won't close completely. To center the claws the best trick I found was to loosen the two 10mm nuts on the receiver, close the hatch with someone inside, and tighten the nuts while the hatch is down. The closing pin (if not worn out) will center the receiver very well and avoid all the trial and error of adjusting from outside.
#7
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Well, the electrical tape trick helps - a few layers didn't but a dozen layers has reduced it quite a bit - I think because the receiver hole when the claws are closed (14.3 mm) is a lot larger than the pin shank (7.9 mm dia) and it lets it rattle around too much. Right now I'm at 9.7 mm tape diameter and plan to add more a bit at a time to see what works best.
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#8
Hatch fix new bushing design
Parting down my 3rd mid/late 80s 944 and all had no bushings or cracked up pieces in the receiver. see below.
Fired up Solid works and the lathe and came up with an insert .
This is NEW I'm not in a position to reveal all the inner details but so far the 3 sets have come out nice. they snap into the lower portion of the hole and support the post. When I get some custom lathe tools ground I can speed up the process to make it more affordable.
I am looking for some latches with no bushings to start an exchange process until I get my tooling dialed in.
Fired up Solid works and the lathe and came up with an insert .
This is NEW I'm not in a position to reveal all the inner details but so far the 3 sets have come out nice. they snap into the lower portion of the hole and support the post. When I get some custom lathe tools ground I can speed up the process to make it more affordable.
I am looking for some latches with no bushings to start an exchange process until I get my tooling dialed in.
Last edited by kens_74911s; 11-16-2011 at 11:32 PM. Reason: added image
#11
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Mine does the same, but only when I use the button in the footwell, but latches fully when I use the key. I have found that I have to unsnap the carpet directly inside from where the lock mechanism is and turn the rod actuators slightly to get things lined back up properly. I think that the cables need to be lubricated properly and things will probably work fine.
#12
when these receivers get gummed up with old grease they can stick in the open positon. The motor or key latch mechanically opens them and recloses the receiver lever. The internal metal paws are spring loaded closed so sticky contaminated grease can put more internal friction on the paws than the internal spring can overcome.
A latch that is shifting from side to side (no bushing) could potentially be moving these paws back and if they are sticking they may stick open from the hatch shifting. Removal and soaking the whole receiver in mineral sprits will help disolve the old grease. Also overtightening the 10mm hex bolts can distort the hollow construction and make them bind up.
A latch that is shifting from side to side (no bushing) could potentially be moving these paws back and if they are sticking they may stick open from the hatch shifting. Removal and soaking the whole receiver in mineral sprits will help disolve the old grease. Also overtightening the 10mm hex bolts can distort the hollow construction and make them bind up.