Rear camber adjustment - too much negative camber
#1
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So I lowered the 944 when I installed new 30mm torsion bars. Got it set up nice that I can take the wheel off, support the rotor, and the pull out the torsion bar to make adjustments. Pretty easy to make ride height adjustments. Ride height is now a little under 5" from the body to the ground.
Since I have lowered the car, I have -4 deg negative camber in the rear. It is noticeable to say the least. A friend was driving behind me and commented on it. I have adjusted the camber eccentric. The hub is as low as it can go. I think this makes for the least amount of negative camber. Anyone know if that is the correct way to move the camber eccentric? What is the max camber I can run in the rear on the track?
Here is a picture:
Since I have lowered the car, I have -4 deg negative camber in the rear. It is noticeable to say the least. A friend was driving behind me and commented on it. I have adjusted the camber eccentric. The hub is as low as it can go. I think this makes for the least amount of negative camber. Anyone know if that is the correct way to move the camber eccentric? What is the max camber I can run in the rear on the track?
Here is a picture:
![](http://i766.photobucket.com/albums/xx306/cobinov/112488561_photobucket_22724_.jpg)
#5
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So the hub has to go up relative to the spring plate? Looking at the geometry, it looks like it has to go down. I'll try the opposite direct in the morning.
The other adjustment is toe. Use can use the p221 tool to dial it in real close. If you have a friend push or pull the wheel, you can adjust toe. It's not that accurate, but gets it close before going to the alignment shop.
The other adjustment is toe. Use can use the p221 tool to dial it in real close. If you have a friend push or pull the wheel, you can adjust toe. It's not that accurate, but gets it close before going to the alignment shop.
#6
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Got it adjusted a couple days ago. Was able to get it down to -2.5 deg. That is with the trailing arm all the way up. Is -2.5 deg too aggressive? There is not much left in the eccentric to turn.
For future reference, I found this link that talked about rear camber adjustment.
For future reference, I found this link that talked about rear camber adjustment.
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#8
Nordschleife Master
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Got it adjusted a couple days ago. Was able to get it down to -2.5 deg. That is with the trailing arm all the way up. Is -2.5 deg too aggressive? There is not much left in the eccentric to turn.
For future reference, I found this link that talked about rear camber adjustment.
For future reference, I found this link that talked about rear camber adjustment.
If you plan on leaving the -2.5 in the rear, you will need to dial in at least as much, if not more, negative camber in the front to balance it out. Otherwise your car will push (understeer).
#9
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Location: Waterloo, Ontario, Canada, eh
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I'm having a similar issue: I couldn't get the toe in spec with the car lowered using only the eccentrics. I decided the 24 year old bushings must have gone soft and allow the swing arm to sit "wrong". I'm replacing both. They don't owe me anything.
With the car on the ground (OK, on the alignment rack), the swing arm bushing didn't look like it was on-axis. I don't know if its supposed to look distorted at rest or not. No amount of tweaking on the toe adjustment eccentric got the toe in spec.
You could have a look-see at the spring plates relative to the spring plate cover and see if they're parallel.
Regards,
doug
Waterloo, Ontario Canada, eh
86 951 (http://www.pcaucr.org/index.php/visu...egory&catid=61)
01 E320 (W210) 4matic Wagon (http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...body-do-2.html)
00 540i-6 (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...3&d=1283457963)
94 855 turbo Wagon (sold in 09)
85 535i-5 (sold in 07)
76 300D (sold in 92)
83 944 (sold in 86)
I apparently only buy cars designated by numbers
With the car on the ground (OK, on the alignment rack), the swing arm bushing didn't look like it was on-axis. I don't know if its supposed to look distorted at rest or not. No amount of tweaking on the toe adjustment eccentric got the toe in spec.
You could have a look-see at the spring plates relative to the spring plate cover and see if they're parallel.
Regards,
doug
Waterloo, Ontario Canada, eh
86 951 (http://www.pcaucr.org/index.php/visu...egory&catid=61)
01 E320 (W210) 4matic Wagon (http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...body-do-2.html)
00 540i-6 (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...3&d=1283457963)
94 855 turbo Wagon (sold in 09)
85 535i-5 (sold in 07)
76 300D (sold in 92)
83 944 (sold in 86)
I apparently only buy cars designated by numbers
#10
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That is not too aggressive for a track car, I ran up to -3 in the rear before I went with big rubber in the back (with 275's I'm running -2.5). -2.5 for a daily driver is a bit much.
If you plan on leaving the -2.5 in the rear, you will need to dial in at least as much, if not more, negative camber in the front to balance it out. Otherwise your car will push (understeer).
If you plan on leaving the -2.5 in the rear, you will need to dial in at least as much, if not more, negative camber in the front to balance it out. Otherwise your car will push (understeer).
Will air preasure and a rear sway bar adjustments balance the car?
#11
Nordschleife Master
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Tough to say as it will also depend on what springs you are running, compression rebound settings, and toe. My guess is that you will push a bit as I always found I needed at least 0.5 to 1.0 more negative camber in front with my 924S (and 225's all around). What I don't like to do is to fix the push by making the back to stiff. Alway try to fix the end that is not working.
#12
Race Director
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If you lower the car as much as most 944 spec cars you do run to the limits of the adjustments.
On one side of my car I can't use the toe tool. I am outside the adjustment range to get to zero (or very close). I just man handle it a bit to get it where I want it. As for camber I can get to -2.0, but that is about all. However that is about what I need for track car.
On one side of my car I can't use the toe tool. I am outside the adjustment range to get to zero (or very close). I just man handle it a bit to get it where I want it. As for camber I can get to -2.0, but that is about all. However that is about what I need for track car.
#13
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Good info guys. It sounds like the ballpark is around -2.0 deg camber.
So I am thinking about the racers edge banana arm bushing that might help the camber adjustment a bit. Do you think the RE are worth it in this location? I am running RE in the spring plates and torsion tube mount.
So I am thinking about the racers edge banana arm bushing that might help the camber adjustment a bit. Do you think the RE are worth it in this location? I am running RE in the spring plates and torsion tube mount.