Ahmet

I'm pretty sure I'm going to go ahead and rebuild my engine. Planning to clean the garage and start next week... I have 1k to spend, about $350 of that will go to a hoist, and engine stand, unless I can barrow one from a shop for a week or so...

Anyway, I'm going with a wide fire head gasket, but aside from that no other mods planned. I'm thinking about knife edging the crank and taking some weight off of it. How much does this normally cost, and is it worth it? Any other things I should look into? I think I will eventually pursue about 370hp (flywheel) from this engine. But for now it'll stay with 3 inch turbo back, chips, wastegate/boost controller, custom intercooler pipes, some ignition upgrades, and blue printed injectors with maybe an FPR if I'm running lean with around 280hp. Planning to keep the stock turbo in for a little while (until I sell my other 944, which won't be before this thing has a rebuilt engine in it, and runs reliably).

I've been a mechanic for a few years, but never did a complete engine rebuild by myself... Anything I should watch out for in the 944 turbo? (it's an 86). Are there any other worthwhile upgrades to do while I'm in there? I think I'm going to purchase an 'engine rebuild kit' from vertex for $500+. Any idea how long this'll take? Basically I'm all ears about any feedback you guys have got to offer. Oh, BTW I'm also going to wrap the headers/turbo when the engine is out.
Thanks for any feedback.
Ahmet

*eurospeed951*

Call SFR for your parts. They are cheaper than vertex. Also talk to them about crank work.

Ahmet

I will send an e-mail to SFR, I didn't realize they sold regular rebuild kits...

Here's what vertex will give me for $575:
1 Piston Ring Set
1 Timing Belt
1 Balance Shaft Belt
4 Intake Valve Guides
4 Exhaust Valve Guides
1 Head Gasket Set
1 Case Gasket Set
1 Main Bearing Set
1 Rod Bearing Set
8 Connecting Rod Nuts
1 Front Seal Kit

I'll purchase a wide fire headgasket, and some rollers as well as a new water pump, and if the internals of the engine are within specs I should be good to go(right?). Should I look into other upgrades while I'm in there, or stick to the budget?
Ahmet

Greg Hammond

- Turbo downpipe gasket
- Timing and balance belt rollers
- Intake manifold gaskets
- Exhaust manifold gaskets

You might also want to consider:

- Oil pumps are $550. Check to see if yours is worn out. At 87K miles, mine was nearly shot - but then again mine also ate bearing material and nasty oil before I bought the car.

- Turbo rebuild. Replacing the turbo is WAY easier if you're taking the engine out too. It doesn't cost a whole lot to rebuild your turbo, and if it has more than 100K original miles, you can bet it's going to need it.

- You're not going to get 280 flywheel HP on that stock K26-6 turbo. The efficiency of the turbo is going to roll-off substantially at 5500 RPM. You might get 235-240 HP on it. Different people get different results. It WILL make higher boost pressures with the boost controller/wastegate adjustments, but it's going to do so at the cost of dramatically increased intake tract temperatures.

Greg

Ahmet

Greg, I appreciate the response. Unfortunately I don't think I'll have the cash to replace my turbo just yet. I also don't want this procedure to take too long, but we shall see. Hopefully my oil pump is not worn, and I don't think it is because with the milage and all the leaks the car didn't go below 1.7 bar or so of pressure during idle after hard driving for an extended period of time, in the last 2k or so miles I've had the car. It usually idles at around 2 to 2.5 bar when warm/hot. Anyway, hopefully it's not, but I will check. I'm not really obsessed with #s, if I don't get 280 that's fine I can live with that for a while... I may get a cup-spec rebuild using my turbo as a core as this only costs a few $100. I'm pretty sure the turbo has been rebuilt recently. I'm hoping intake/exaust manifold gaskets are included in the 'head gasket set'. I'll also look into the turbo downpipe gasket, thanks again for the heads up. This car uses about a quart of oil every 100 miles or so, and the intake tract is full of oil. Perhaps most of it is the turbo, and some maybe crank ventilation related. Eitherway, I need this car to be reliable as it'll be me only transportation at some point, and I don't want to deal with engine problems anytime soon so I will undertake this project. Thanks again for the reply, if you think of anything else, I'll be listenning, again
Ahmet

Wachuko

I will scan the list of additional gaskets... from Porsche, with PCA discount, it was an additional US$320.00 (but it included the bolts for the cvj's, bolts for the flywheel, and other small stuff like the hollow bolts for the turbo oil lines and the bolt to the water pipe that hooks to the turbo.

You might want to consider changing all rubber hoses at this time.

I am in the middle of all this. When I replaced the alternator I changed the hoses. Now that I am in the middle of changing the rear main seal I am considering a complete overhaul...

Good luck.

Danno

You're not going to get 280 flywheel HP on that stock K26-6 turbo. The efficiency of the turbo is going to roll-off substantially at 5500 RPM. You might get 235-240 HP on it. Different people get different results. It WILL make higher boost pressures with the boostcontroller/wastegate adjustments, but it's going to do so at the cost of dramatically increased intake tract temperatures.

Greg's right on about the stock turbos. Here's a dyno chart of the stock K26/6 & K26/8 turbos when you bump up the boost to 1-bar. Most of the gains are in the mid-range with a dramatic drop-off at the higher RPMs as the turbos run out of steam:

87 944T vs. 89 944T TQ (both with APE chips)

At 1 bar, the K26/6 barely manages 211.6rwhp. A k26/8 fares a little better:

87 944T vs. 89 944T HP (both with APE chips)

BTW, a lean mixture problem at 280rwhp has nothing to do with the turbo. It's because your stock injectors are fully maxxed out. Get larger injectors, that's the only way. Increasing fuel-pressure excessively (above 50psi) doesn't work because the injectors won't operate reliably at high fuel-pressures.

Ahmet

Thanks Jaime Diaz, please do keep me updated.

Danno, I appreciate the info on turbos and how much power is feasible with the stock ones. I didn't mean to imply that I'm going to shoot for 280hp with the stock turbo, but hp #s right now don't mean much... I'm rebuilding the engine, and I'd like to know what you guys think I should do considering at some point I'd like to get more power out of it. I think a rebuilt stock bottom end can handle up to/around 370hp crank pretty reliably, preferably with a wide fire headgasket. I'd like to lighten the crank, and knife edge it, do you think this is a good idea? Also do you think there are other things I should do while I'm in there considering the intended use of the car? Thanks again.
Ahmet

*eurospeed951*

That should be a good base to build on. You should really call SFR. They should be able to hook you up with what you need as well as answer your questions.

Ahmet

Called the # listed for John Anderson, he didn't pick up. I've also e-mailed them earlier today, no response as of yet. Trust me I want to know as much as I can. Wondering if this'll be more involved then I think...
Ahmet

Tabor

I would rebuild the head while it is off the car (saves you doing it later).

*eurospeed951*

As long as there is no damage than it should not be that hard.

PorscheG96

Will the new rings seat correctly without having the cylinder walls re-treated? <img src="confused.gif" border="0">

Ski

The rings should seat,,but use dino oil and not synthetic! They will not seat correctly with out the friction and properties of dino oil. Ahmet, I would call Jason at Paragon too. They offer a Wide Fire gasket set, everything on the top included, $175 for that.

Danno

I think a rebuilt stock bottom end can handle up to/around 370hp crank pretty reliably, preferably with a wide fire headgasket. I'd like to lighten the crank, and knife edge it, do you think this is a good idea? Also do you think there are other things I should do while I'm in there considering the intended use of the car?

Well, the innards are the toughest to get to, so you might as well do them first while things are apart. Yes, lighten and knife-edge the crank, but don't go overboard. Also get lighter and stronger rods while you're there. Something like H-beam chromoly rods. Along with a lightened or aluminum flywheel, you'll get zingy revs and increased reliability at higher power levels and revs.

Once you bolt the engine back together and put it in the car, these components can't be changed easily. Everything else you can take care of easily.