View Poll Results: street combo; de-stroked LS7 388 c.i. vs LS3 376 c.i.; which would you run ?
LS3 376 c.i. (Crate Engine Depot); $7,300 (see top of page 4)...
27
60.00%
LS7 block w/ ls3 crank @ 388 c.i., LS3 heads/intake LS7 cam; $9,900.
18
40.00%
Voters: 45. You may not vote on this poll
LS1 swap/parts/LSD transmissions...
07-01-2015, 03:48 PM
#166
Addict
need something real gentle to wash off all that grime (that came off the tractor)/sandy/salty/ **** mix.
if I recall you nearly took the Lord's name in vain over the phone.
we need mic/sound mixer..... to control the volume
set the whole thing up across the street, cover the mic with a blanket for zero-distortion, etc,
they ALL need hear what this thing REALLY sounds like.
but, most of all - Voith (**** engine werks sympathizer), so he can try and tell me it sounds like a truck engine.
,
if I recall you nearly took the Lord's name in vain over the phone.
we need mic/sound mixer..... to control the volume
set the whole thing up across the street, cover the mic with a blanket for zero-distortion, etc,
they ALL need hear what this thing REALLY sounds like.
but, most of all - Voith (**** engine werks sympathizer), so he can try and tell me it sounds like a truck engine.
,
Dude makes we long for the days of Special Tool. 
...and cardio went well. Should find out when the pacer gets changed out in a couple hours.
07-03-2015, 10:30 AM
#167
Team Owner
Thread Starter
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Location: one thousand, five hundred miles north of Ft. Lauderdale for the summer.
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I was concerned because the typical V8 swaps I've heard in person and on the internet have all been, imo, way too loud.
I had an idea this would work... and Eric Hill executed it to perfection.
the exhaust note with the 2 Borla resonators (1 right after the other in the exhaust tunnel) then the Vibrant muffler
out the back, and the gasses being able to run unimpeded through 3 1/2" is really, really good.
we got just the right amount of sound suppression, imo.
but, with the over-square block, short stroke, and aluminum flywheel, it spools up to 4000 rpm so FAST!!
and that sound.... 
I had an idea this would work... and Eric Hill executed it to perfection.
the exhaust note with the 2 Borla resonators (1 right after the other in the exhaust tunnel) then the Vibrant muffler
out the back, and the gasses being able to run unimpeded through 3 1/2" is really, really good.
we got just the right amount of sound suppression, imo.
but, with the over-square block, short stroke, and aluminum flywheel, it spools up to 4000 rpm so FAST!!
and that sound....
Last edited by odurandina; 07-04-2015 at 12:11 PM.
07-03-2015, 03:17 PM
#168
Addict
Check out my new 968 bearing press tool.
Used a pipe/wall mount from Home Depot and some flat stock cold rolled steel. Made the circle by bending it in my vise just a bit at a time and it came out almost perfect from the get go. Welded it up and BAMB.....cost like $10. Suck on that!!!
Used a pipe/wall mount from Home Depot and some flat stock cold rolled steel. Made the circle by bending it in my vise just a bit at a time and it came out almost perfect from the get go. Welded it up and BAMB.....cost like $10. Suck on that!!!
07-03-2015, 03:38 PM
#169
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Location: one thousand, five hundred miles north of Ft. Lauderdale for the summer.
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i'll try to add a bit of 2nd hand information here....
as you all see,
along the quest for a reliable car, and 190mph,
Doug's now getting into the rear wheel bearings...........
well 22 years and 200 k miles. guess it was time...
DON'T WAIT 20 YEARS!!
Doug,
would it be safe to say the **** basically came apart upon getting everything loose??
apparently, everything was mostly all held together by rust. which apparently required a lot of heat.....
and an endless battering (apparently).
now he's discovering a few more things that need addressing.
the rear brake lines are shot, which might explain why the rear braking is weak.
and front brakes were locking up under hard braking....
and also, in addition to why my brakes are unbalanced,
he's discovered the front (GTS) calipers aren't releasing completely, etc.
so, the hydroboost is working, apparently, too much.
naturally, this might explain why the car felt a bit sluggish on the roads.
then, logic leads me to wonder
if the situation improves once hydroboost power is being distributed over all 4 brakes.
looks like Doug's truly, in for it.
.
as you all see,
along the quest for a reliable car, and 190mph,
Doug's now getting into the rear wheel bearings...........
well 22 years and 200 k miles. guess it was time...
DON'T WAIT 20 YEARS!!
Doug,
would it be safe to say the **** basically came apart upon getting everything loose??
apparently, everything was mostly all held together by rust. which apparently required a lot of heat.....
and an endless battering (apparently).
now he's discovering a few more things that need addressing.
the rear brake lines are shot, which might explain why the rear braking is weak.
and front brakes were locking up under hard braking....
and also, in addition to why my brakes are unbalanced,
he's discovered the front (GTS) calipers aren't releasing completely, etc.
so, the hydroboost is working, apparently, too much.
naturally, this might explain why the car felt a bit sluggish on the roads.
then, logic leads me to wonder
if the situation improves once hydroboost power is being distributed over all 4 brakes.
looks like Doug's truly, in for it.
.
Last edited by odurandina; 07-04-2015 at 07:57 PM.
07-03-2015, 06:35 PM
#170
Addict
Wait, we are dealing with hydroboost? My Astrovan had that. 
One thing at a time though.
Left rear bearings went in great, hub halves went together without a hitch, shock went on great....then went down to order the CV boots and they wanted $27 ea for just the boot and they weren't gonna be in until Monday. Monday is fine, it's the $27 that had me scratching my head. Walked out without ordering.
Went to Pelican and ordered 4 CV rebuild kits at $15.75 each. May as well do it right while I'm in there. Also ordered new CV bolts, brake lines and clips, and now I'm thinking it's nap time.
One thing at a time though.
Left rear bearings went in great, hub halves went together without a hitch, shock went on great....then went down to order the CV boots and they wanted $27 ea for just the boot and they weren't gonna be in until Monday. Monday is fine, it's the $27 that had me scratching my head. Walked out without ordering.
Went to Pelican and ordered 4 CV rebuild kits at $15.75 each. May as well do it right while I'm in there. Also ordered new CV bolts, brake lines and clips, and now I'm thinking it's nap time.
07-03-2015, 06:51 PM
#171
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nice work Doug.
if you check the driver's side firewall....
2004 Mustang GT hydroboost master cylinder is supposed to provide a lot of braking assist.
.
if you check the driver's side firewall....
2004 Mustang GT hydroboost master cylinder is supposed to provide a lot of braking assist.
.
07-03-2015, 11:13 PM
#172
Addict
Interesting.
Well, I got the passenger side brake off, the axle out, and the hub stubs out with the use of my BFH wrench and now I can't find one of the nuts for my custom/cool puller. Back to Home Depot.
Looks like the inner CV boot was intentionally cut with a razor blade.
Well, I got the passenger side brake off, the axle out, and the hub stubs out with the use of my BFH wrench and now I can't find one of the nuts for my custom/cool puller.
Back to Home Depot. Looks like the inner CV boot was intentionally cut with a razor blade.
07-04-2015, 02:25 AM
#173
Boots are a 928 number...6 bucks...the cost of the kit after wrestling one on...or just throwing on a new CV instead repacking one......PRICELESS.
Are you going to double nut the axles with all of that glorious torque?
Are you going to double nut the axles with all of that glorious torque?
07-04-2015, 08:59 AM
#174
Addict
Besides, it would be wise to inspect and repack the CV's sense they are also 20+ years old. Actually, right side looked to have been rebuilt at some point. How does one double nut the axles when they are held on with bolts?
I do have safety wire, but drilling out the bolts always proves to be beyond my ability. (See my 930 brakes in my avatar....Rotor hats were gonna get wired.
)
07-04-2015, 10:29 AM
#175
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I've been thinking of using hex heads and safety wire star washers on the axle bolts. Should be pretty easy, unless there is not enough clearance for a hex head and socket on that flange. I guess you could grind a couple flats onto the head of a socket head cap screw.
07-04-2015, 09:05 PM
#177
Addict
Actually, I think I did tell Allen a proportioning valve would go a long way in solving his imbalances....well, the ones on his brakes anyway. Aircraft Spruce has a drilling jig I need to buy.
07-04-2015, 11:36 PM
#178
Rennlist Member
Dear Amber lamps: If you try metric screw and bolt, they may have them already drilled..They specialize in metric stuff..prices are quite reasonable..IMHO..They are out of Wakefield Mass.