Van

I took a video of using the welding method to remove a broken bolt. The bolt in question was an M6 bolt in the aluminum axle carrier of a 996 - it's the bolt that holds the wheel speed (ABS) sensor on.

Anyhow, hopefully some people will find it useful:

Stephenwz968

Van - thanks for all the instructional videos, they are great!

pontifex4

Van, I'm pretty new to welding: is it necessary to do anything to the nut before welding?

Tom M'Guinn

Thanks Van -- great video. Do you leave the DME connected when you weld on the chassis like that?

Van

Nope, it was just a new M8 nut. The zinc coating on the nut gets instantly burned off from the heat.


I did leave the battery hooked up yesterday - it was late and I wanted to be done! But, usually, I try to disconnect the negative battery terminal if I'm welding on a fuel injected car.

Tom M'Guinn

But I assume the DME still works fine?

carlege

Good write up. Is that a MIG welding?

krystar

although not necessary, it certainly doesn't hurt to hit the bolt with a wire wheel or even just a steel brush. get any rust off so it can make a good arc.

yea that's mig welder. although u can do same with a stick/arc welder

carlege

Although ive never used any type of welder (never had the chance) i have had a chance to see stick welders and i cant imagine how hard it would be to weld a small piece with a stick welder...... maybe they have smaller sticks?

Van

Correct, in this instance, there was no ill affect to the DME (or any of the other electronic systems).


Also correct, you need to start with things pretty clean. I had actually used a wire brush on everything. This helps for 2 reasons: first, rust/corrosion isn't very conductive, so cleaning it off helps make a better starting arc; and second, rust/corrosion doesn't make a very strong weld (once you've made an arc).


This was an M6 bolt. I think you'd have to be quite talented to get the same results with a stick welder - but it is possible!

A note about welders: most small "consumer welders" are wire-feed welders (like a MIG) that use a flux core wire. While these do work, a MIG (or MIG conversion) which uses a shielding gas for flux, isn't much more expensive, but delivers superior results. If you ever contemplate purchasing a welder, go for the extra expense for the MIG - it's well worth it.

Luis de Prat

Great video, thanks!

However, for those of us without the benefit of having a welder handy, I find the following stud removing tool invaluable when the broken bolt is not flush and there is still a stub protruding:

944Ross

This method is used a lot on broken head bolts /studs on the Ford flathead engines I mess with. One very good additional step is to put a stick of paraffin wax on the hot bolt after welding. It melts and wicks into the threads even better than penetrating oil, then solidifies. It really gets in there deep and is good lubrication.

harrisonrick

Van, you rock.

Your waterpump video gave me confidence to DIY mine, and I did with 100% success.

Thanks bro!

968 GUY

One of the engine rebuilders, cannot remember which one, recommends removing head studs before shipping, and says the best method for removing studs is to weld a nut to the stud, says the heat helps to break the loctite from around the threads.
Have used this method in my job as a DON mechanic, and shipyard mechanic.
I've heard of the parrafin technique several times before.