Dryslick13

Don't forget to roll your fenders.

Mikes-951

so i lowered my car today, i have the turbo S so the fronts were just coil-overs, i also lowered the rear by adjusting the torsion bar. (just the 3 bolts on each side). i don't like how the rear rides and i cant go for a flush look because when i get on it, i know it will rub. SO my options are to either go coils in the rear, or torsion bar replacement. What one is easier to do? and are there any coils that you would recommend?

thetraynor0216

Wheel specs?

fasteddie313

Nu-uh, you could add a bunch of bricks and +- to get the stance you want.. Even corner balance!!


Yup may as well use bricks dudes!!


Then as an added benefit you could use much more loud pedal taking off without breaking the speed limits as much so people a bit further away can hear you so they turn there heads to see how awesome your car looks and still have time to catch a glimpse

WIN WIN

You definitely don't want a turbo because then you'd be gone before anyone could figure who and what that was..

Yeah bricks, stance, loud, slow, perfection..

harveyf

This car is lowered just about as far as you can practically go and not totally upset the steering in the front or the constant velocity joints in the rear. It uses the Paragon Products "944 Spec 1" suspension kit, with the front using 350 lb springs (which effectively lowers the front of the car) and the new 30mm torsion bars re-indexed in the rear to obtain a level ride height. This is a track prep so it also has heavy roll (sway) bars, which would not be absolutely neccesary for a street car as they neither add not detract from the lowering part. As you lower the car, the angle of the halfshafts in the rear becomes pretty steep. If you go too far, you will risk tearing up the CV joints, as they will be operating at an angle that is outside of their design parameters. Same with the steering arms in the front, as lowering increases their angle from stock, where they are basically level. This puts unknown forces on the tie-rod ends. So proceed at your own risk! This is a 1985 car. Rear coilovers were not required to get this amount of lowering. The tires are 15" x 225mm at all 4 corners, early offset Fuchs, no special spacers required, and no rolling of the fenders required. It is so stiff that if you have any sort of clearance between the tires and the wheel wells when the car is at rest, there isn't much relative motion when you drive it and thus I haven't had any tire rub issues.

I also have a car with the Weltmeister 200 lb front springs, again with the stock rear torsion bars re-indexed to give a level ride height. Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of that car here at work but I will point out that the last time I took it in for the required NC state safety inspection, all 3 inspection stations in town rejected it, not because it was illegal but simply because it was too low to get up on their inspection lift. I wound up have to remove the front lower valence so they could get it on the lift. A real PIA. It is not as low as the orange car, which is not street legal and thus doesn't need state inspections.

The 944 Spec 1 suspension kit is several thousand bucks and you would probably want to put in new bushings, etc at the same time. And it is a lot of work! There are multiple articles on my website about the work required to rebuild/adjust the suspension.

If you want it "slammed" right to the ground, I'm the wrong guy to ask but I would think you would have to use air bags so you could raise it back up to drive it.

grenadiers

For stock street cars, stock shocks and struts are a problem when lowering the car. At least on my first attempt at a Spec 924S build, lowering the car too much, and the car runs on bump stops only. Very harsh and useless on the track.

konakat

Holy thread resurrection, Batman!

But I must say I am impressed that the OP actually got genuine advice instead of being flamed. I really don't understand why rennlist has such a bad rep.