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%^$# Crank Shaft Bolt! Need Advice

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Old 04-21-2003, 08:44 PM
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dlr944
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Post %^$# Crank Shaft Bolt! Need Advice

So I am in the middle of replacing my balance shaft seals and I can't remove the crank shaft bolt for the life of me. The car is at TDC and the flywheel is locked. I am using a Snapon 24MM deep socket and an 18" breaker bar. Can pull or push as hard as you can and it won't move. Tried tapping the breaker bar with a small sledge hammer- still no results.

What's the secert for removing this bolt? Impact wrench? Penetrating oil? Appreciate your advice.

EDIT: I assume counter clockwise is the correct direction for removing the bolt??
Old 04-21-2003, 09:27 PM
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83na944
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Leverage. Try a 24" breaker bar. The bolt is supposed to be torqued to 150 lb-ft, so it's tight.

I place the bar in the correct position, go to the right fender, grab with both hands, brace against the fender, and pull with all my might. You should be able to do this.

If this doesn't work, let me know. I have one other procedure that I won't mention because it could be dangerous and could cause major damage.

Good Luck.
Old 04-21-2003, 10:00 PM
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Dal Heger
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Yup, It's TIGHT!!! it'll release with a nice "CRACK" then it'll be easy to remove.

Remember to re-torque it to 155 ft.lbs. when you're done!

Dal.
Old 04-21-2003, 10:41 PM
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ahofam123
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Unfortunately mine was torqued down to about 400 ft lbs as my impact wrench couldn't even budge it. After breaking numerous adapters with a breaker bar, I went down to my mech and they lent me their $200 professional 1 in. drive breaker bar. I tried it from above and it still wouldn't budge. Finally I put a four foot extension on the end of the breaker bar and started pulling where the extension passed the hood. After two weeks of working on it, this finally got it loose. The second time I went to take it off it was much easier and I was able to take it off with only my torque wrench since it was only at 150 ft. lbs.
Old 04-21-2003, 11:43 PM
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dlr944
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by ahofam123:
<strong> Finally I put a four foot extension on the end of the breaker bar and started pulling where the extension passed the hood. After two weeks of working on it, this finally got it loose. The second time I went to take it off it was much easier and I was able to take it off with only my torque wrench since it was only at 150 ft. lbs.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">How did you add a 4 foot extension? What was the total lenght. Torque = lever arm x force
Old 04-22-2003, 12:36 AM
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PeteL
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I used a six foot section of steel pipe. The ID was just larger than my breaker bar. Got at the end of the pipe, and crack. Bolt came free.
6.00 at Lowes.
Old 04-22-2003, 12:45 AM
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iloveporsches
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I broke mine free by starting the car with a breaker bar attached <img border="0" alt="[ouch]" title="" src="graemlins/c.gif" />

Needless to say this was an accident and shouldn't be done this way.
Old 04-22-2003, 12:51 AM
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dlr944
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I assume counter clockwise is the correct direction for removing the bolt??
Old 04-22-2003, 01:05 AM
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nwehtje944
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I also found that a steel pipe (about 4-5' long) and a heavy duty breaker bar to work about best.
Old 04-22-2003, 01:21 AM
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Panacea
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Mine wouldn't come off with an impact gun either. A 24mm impact socket with a length of pipe finally prevailed. I beat on the breaker bar with a heavy hammer, used a pipe wrench on the socket in conjunction with the breaker bar, etc. Finally came loose, after all that, with me hanging on a section of pipe on the breaker bar (3ft x 185lbs = 555 ft lbsof torque). I had the engine on a stand, so it was a bit difficult to keep it from turning in the stand.

It's a right hand thread bolt, so when facing the bolt, turn it counter-clockwise.
Old 04-22-2003, 01:38 AM
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car_slave
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You guy's are lucky the bolt didn't brake.
Old 04-22-2003, 01:44 AM
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83na944
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Yes, dlr944, its a typical right-hand threaded bolt so that counterclockwise loosens the bolt.

I assume that these bolts must corrode, because I can't imagine why or how anyone would torque the bolt to 400 lb-ft. I guess if you take out the radiator and condensor you could get an impact wrench in there, but why would someone do that? The sprockets and pulley are keyed to the shaft, so they're not going to move around.

Anyway, find a longer breaker bar or put a cheater on the end of what you have, it'll come free.
Old 04-22-2003, 05:38 AM
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Legoland951
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Read directions below.....
Old 04-22-2003, 09:32 AM
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CurlyDE
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I used about a four foot long torque stick to get mine off. It came right off no problems ... I will not mention the hell I went through before a friend loaned me that tool.
Old 04-22-2003, 09:41 AM
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threesticks1
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Legoland951: You about sum up the mechanical aptitude of some of the mechanics that I work with. Larry is what we call a hammer mechanic. He has three hammers in his tool box. Their sizes are small, medium, and Oh MY God! His moto is: "Give me a hammer big enough and the room to swing it and I can disassemble anything".


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