who1

I'm no mechanical engineer (although I am a EE), but I think the coefficient of friction for a static object is much higher than for a moving one (i.e. tightening the bolt) and that's what gives you torque numbers of 400ft-lbs to break it loose. Plus, if it's like the Audi 5-cylinder, they use a special super loctite stuff in addition to torqueing it to some unsightly number of ft-lbs. In fact you, have to have a special extension plus your torque wrench to do it by the book.

sm

Just did this last night, again. Put a decent length breaker bar on the bolt from under the car. The lever of the breaker bar should be pointing at around 4 o'clock when you're facing the engine. Then put a jack near the end of the bar (but not at the end b/c the end of the bar travels in a parabola and the jack goes straight up) and start jacking the breaker bar. This allows the bolt to break loose slowly and the chances or you breaking expensive objects in the engine bay is lessened. Just be careful and make sure the bar doesn't jam against the fan shrouds, hoses, etc.

Hope that helps.

dlr944

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by sm:
<strong>Then put a jack near the end of the bar (but not at the end b/c the end of the bar travels in a parabola and the jack goes straight up) and start jacking the breaker bar. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">SM that is a very insteresting idea. I've already move the fan shroud, so I'll try it tonight and report back. good idea!

Legoland951

Threesticks, that was funny. I have those hammers too. I use my 125 psi airhose on my 500+ ftlb ingersol rand impact gun and it gets it off most of the time. It will require the removal of the radiator. I also have a 3/4 inch drive socket set with up to 50mm socket with a one inch diameter solid (not a hollow tube) 2 ft long breaker bar I can jump on. To me that's brute force. If you can't get it off, it will break it off not because you want to but because you have no choice. It will always require skill to apply that kind of brute force without hurting yourself. Some jobs require brute force and there is really no way around it (try to take a rotary engine apart if you think the 24mm bolt takes alot of torque).

Legoland951

By the way, don't use extensions at all when you are using an impact because it will reduce the torque to the bolt. Its best to use a short socket directly on the impact if you can and unless someone loctited on, you will get it off.

Legoland951

Use a 6 point socket. This is not the bolt you want to strip when apply ludicrous amounts of torque on.

Peckster

Reminds me of a buddy's saying: Never use force, just a bigger hammer. He knew what he was doing.

dlr944

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by 83na944:
<strong>Leverage. Try a 24" breaker bar. The bolt is supposed to be torqued to 150 lb-ft, so it's tight. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Thought I would report back. Purchased a 24" breaker bar yesterday and that was enough to free the bolt! Thanks everyone!!

SM, thanks for the advice.

Bri Bro

Use an impact socket if you are using a 4-6 foot breaker.