ExitWound

I've searched all 3 big 944 forums and can't find much at all related to fixing this.

1.) All settings of the wiper stalk return NO wiper action at all.
2.) When the positions are selected on the stalk, I can see the alternator reading on the dash fluctuate accordingly (leading me to believe that the switches on the stalk are fine).
3.) Took the wiper motor out of the car and attempted to open it up. I can't get the metal cover off all the way. Is there a trick to it? I've removed the plastic cover, removed the side latches holding the metal cover on but it won't slide straight off, as if something is still connected or binding. Is it just powerful magnets?
4.) Hooked the motor up to the car outside the mounting points and still no action at all with any stalk setting.
5.) Wiper fuse 24 is good.
6.) Relay G9 looks to be okay physically but how do I test it?
7.) How can I power the motor outside of the car? Which of the 6 connectors on the harness power it?

Symptoms:
For the past 6 months, the motor has been making a loud howling noise the first few minutes of use. Then it settles. Also, the last month, the wipers have been getting slower and slower. Friday, there was no movement at all, any settings. I suspect the motor is either dead or rusted shut.

(86/944)
Where do I go from here? Thanks.

ExitWound

I managed to get the cap off. I believe it was mostly magnets holding it down, but there could have been some permanent attachment to the magnets.


There's a lot of CRUD attached to the magnets, on both sides. The motor spins freely though with little resistance.

How can I test the motor out of the car?? I have 6 pins on the power harness.

potent951turbo

I have had electric R/C car motors in the past that were not functioning that didn't look much different than your pictures. I got them working again just by getting a small wire brush for my dremel and cleaning the rust off of the internal metal parts, and then cleaning them out with some aerosol electric motor cleaner. Worth a try I would think.

xsboost90

put a new motor assy on it- or a used one.

ExitWound

The object is to obviously salvage the one I have before getting a different one.

I'll give it a cleaning as best as I can. Any idea how to power it via the 6pin harness while it's outside the car? Can I just connect a battery to green and brown?

Han Solo

Trace the three wires that actually connect to the motor. There should be ground, high speed and low speed. Those are the circuits you can test on a 12V source. The other wires go to the contacts that control intermittent operation and stop position. Those will terminate in the gear area. I'd avoid applying 12V to those as they work through the wiper system relays.

potent951turbo

You can also just plug it into the harness and ground on the car without mounting it to test it. Make sure someone is holding it from flopping around, and not to get their fingers caught in it.

joonas

Do you have factory manuals? If you do check the voltages with multimeter.

Remove all rust and loose particles from magnet and other parts. Be careful not to destroy wire insulations.

If electricity is checked out connect the motor and hope for the best. Motor is very rusty.

ExitWound

I'm having trouble figuring out the wiring diagram. Take a look:



The colors on the schematic do NOT match the wire colors on my wiper unit. My wiper harness has the following:

Pin 1-Yellow
Pin 2-Green
Pin 3-Black
Pin 4-Blue
Pin 5-Red
Pin 6-Brown

These all feed into the potentiometer near the motor. From there, a brown wire, a green wire, and a black wire go into the motor itself, with no obvious exposed wire.

I don't want to hook up the motor to the harness in the car to power it because then I haven't eliminated the switch and relay in the circuit. If the motor works outside of the car, then the motor works, and the problem is elsewhere. I can then start to diagnose the failure on the stalk/fuse box. If it doesn't work outside the car, then it doesn't work and I've found the problem.

What am I looking at in terms of getting this to run outside the car?

ExitWound

Update:

I took the voltmeter to the harness and inspected the readings across the terminals until I found the combination that gave me 12V. I have 12V across pins 6 and 4, and 11.5V across pings 6 and 2, 6 being brown which I assume is ground.

I hooked the motor up to it again, with the cap loosened, turned the key, turned on the stalk, and nothing. I tapped the cap with my hand a few times and it spun to live! It was blowing out rusty dust though, but came to life, leading me to believe that indeed the motor is all gunked up and rusty and just not spinning properly with the cap on tight.