and off came the head! (need a valve.)
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Around Lake Tahoe, California
Posts: 522
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Welp,
after a few weekends of working in the rain and sometimes snow, and not knowing what I was doing the entire time..
The head is off! I'm guessing it hasnt been off in 20 something years... the gasket is bulging and looking corroded on the spots where it covers holes in the block.
The bad news... one bent valve
Its on the cylinder furthest back and its... the bigger one that should sit flush, not the smaller one. Fortunately, there seems to be no damage to the piston.
However, it is covered by a think nastly layer of burnt gunk. Blegh. All four of them are, I'm gonna go to town with the seafoam. What should I use to clean them? A wire brush? or is that too harsh...
So does anyone wanna sell me a valve?
Porsche OEM for the valves is shockingly steep... $200 per.
Next up is the timing belt. I understand that this IS doable without lifting the engine?
Thanks all
after a few weekends of working in the rain and sometimes snow, and not knowing what I was doing the entire time..
The head is off! I'm guessing it hasnt been off in 20 something years... the gasket is bulging and looking corroded on the spots where it covers holes in the block.
The bad news... one bent valve
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
However, it is covered by a think nastly layer of burnt gunk. Blegh. All four of them are, I'm gonna go to town with the seafoam. What should I use to clean them? A wire brush? or is that too harsh...
So does anyone wanna sell me a valve?
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Next up is the timing belt. I understand that this IS doable without lifting the engine?
Thanks all
![bigbye](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/xyxwave.gif)
#3
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I just did a similar job with my car. It may be easier and cheaper to replace the head, at least it was for me. I paid $200 for a head that had 951 springs and a 3 way or 5 way grind.
If you want I can see if the same person has another cylinder head.
If you want I can see if the same person has another cylinder head.
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Around Lake Tahoe, California
Posts: 522
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Why get something that expensive when I can get single valves for under $50 bucks from Pelican?
![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
Or am I missing something here...
Xboost90 - you sold me a good oil pan so I'd trust whatever you've got is good. What do you want for the head? Do I really need a head?
I'm outside my knowledge zone here..
Thanks
#7
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Hawkinsville / Perry, Georgia, RETIRED USAF GO BLUE
Posts: 1,309
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
DO NOT USE A WIRE BRUSH ON THE HEAD OR BLOCK. To clean off the gasket material takes a long slow time with a razor blade. You do not want to nick the aluminum surface as it will not seal properly. Believe it or not the cleaning of both head and block gasket surface is the most time consuming part of the job. Check out clarks garage.com for help.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-ma...ure-index3.htm
Cheers,
Larry
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-ma...ure-index3.htm
Cheers,
Larry
Last edited by Grandpa#3; 02-28-2010 at 04:49 PM. Reason: add
Trending Topics
#8
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Around Lake Tahoe, California
Posts: 522
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
DO NOT USE A WIRE BRUSH ON THE HEAD OR BLOCK. To clean off the gasket material takes a long slow time with a razor blade. You do not want to nick the aluminum surface as it will not seal properly. Believe it or not the cleaning of both head and block gasket surface is the most time consuming part of the job. Check out clarks garage.com for help.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-ma...ure-index3.htm
Cheers,
Larry
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-ma...ure-index3.htm
Cheers,
Larry
Well the headgasket came off in one piece... didnt leave any residue as far as I can see. What about the pistons? any advice on cleaning those?
#9
Proprietoristicly Refined
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Do not clean the carbon ring at the top of the cylinders. It helps the combustion stroke.
Do not allow carbon chunks to fall between the piston and cylinder wall.
IF--IF you decide to remove the carbon on top of the piston....Put a ring of wheel bearing grease around the edge of the piston head to catch the carbon chunks. When one piston head is cleaned lower it and wipe the grease away.
Do not scratch the SOFT block when you remove the gasket residue. Gently scrape and wipe with acetone and a scotch bright pad---NOT SOS metal pads.
Allow 4 to 8 hours of gentle removal.
In the galley between the cyl walls and block clean the deep corners. Water Pump residue is found at the rear bottom.
GL
John_AZ
Do not allow carbon chunks to fall between the piston and cylinder wall.
IF--IF you decide to remove the carbon on top of the piston....Put a ring of wheel bearing grease around the edge of the piston head to catch the carbon chunks. When one piston head is cleaned lower it and wipe the grease away.
Do not scratch the SOFT block when you remove the gasket residue. Gently scrape and wipe with acetone and a scotch bright pad---NOT SOS metal pads.
Allow 4 to 8 hours of gentle removal.
In the galley between the cyl walls and block clean the deep corners. Water Pump residue is found at the rear bottom.
GL
John_AZ