elzergone

Welp,

after a few weekends of working in the rain and sometimes snow, and not knowing what I was doing the entire time..

The head is off! I'm guessing it hasnt been off in 20 something years... the gasket is bulging and looking corroded on the spots where it covers holes in the block.

The bad news... one bent valve Its on the cylinder furthest back and its... the bigger one that should sit flush, not the smaller one. Fortunately, there seems to be no damage to the piston.

However, it is covered by a think nastly layer of burnt gunk. Blegh. All four of them are, I'm gonna go to town with the seafoam. What should I use to clean them? A wire brush? or is that too harsh...


So does anyone wanna sell me a valve? Porsche OEM for the valves is shockingly steep... $200 per.

Next up is the timing belt. I understand that this IS doable without lifting the engine?


Thanks all

DeWolf

ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-S...Q5fAccessories

jamesjedi

I just did a similar job with my car. It may be easier and cheaper to replace the head, at least it was for me. I paid $200 for a head that had 951 springs and a 3 way or 5 way grind.

If you want I can see if the same person has another cylinder head.

xsboost90

i should have an intake valve. I have a head from an n/a - i also have some valves from a turbo but not sure if they are the same on the intake.

elzergone

Why get something that expensive when I can get single valves for under $50 bucks from Pelican?

Or am I missing something here...


Xboost90 - you sold me a good oil pan so I'd trust whatever you've got is good. What do you want for the head? Do I really need a head?

I'm outside my knowledge zone here..

Thanks

krystar

yea i got some valves in my collection too. if u get it fmor pelican or even roll the dice and get it from dcauto, it's much cheaper.

Grandpa#3

DO NOT USE A WIRE BRUSH ON THE HEAD OR BLOCK. To clean off the gasket material takes a long slow time with a razor blade. You do not want to nick the aluminum surface as it will not seal properly. Believe it or not the cleaning of both head and block gasket surface is the most time consuming part of the job. Check out clarks garage.com for help.

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-ma...ure-index3.htm

Cheers,
Larry

elzergone

Well the headgasket came off in one piece... didnt leave any residue as far as I can see. What about the pistons? any advice on cleaning those?

John_AZ

Do not clean the carbon ring at the top of the cylinders. It helps the combustion stroke.

Do not allow carbon chunks to fall between the piston and cylinder wall.

IF--IF you decide to remove the carbon on top of the piston....Put a ring of wheel bearing grease around the edge of the piston head to catch the carbon chunks. When one piston head is cleaned lower it and wipe the grease away.

Do not scratch the SOFT block when you remove the gasket residue. Gently scrape and wipe with acetone and a scotch bright pad---NOT SOS metal pads.

Allow 4 to 8 hours of gentle removal.

In the galley between the cyl walls and block clean the deep corners. Water Pump residue is found at the rear bottom.

GL
John_AZ

MM951

Let me know if you still need a valve, I have a box of spare valves, springs, retainers, etc.

Tell me what you want to pay

elzergone

Hey Mike, did you get my PM?

I neeeed some valves! 4 to be exact. two intake, two exhaust.

Lemme know what you think is fair for them, I have no idea.