krystar

from my memory, those hoses are pretty nicely form and tucked away. could probably make a flashing to cover em up if u wanted to though.

marky522

For my bettery relocation I ran a ground from the battery to the transmission and used one of the diff cover bolts to ground it, and ran another ground to the ground point under the drivers tail light. I had no problems with this solution. And to save you some money, order the Fuse holder and a slow blow fuse from McMaster it was less than $10 and the 100A Fuse worked great for me, just dont crank for longer than 20 seconds.

Mark

Cass944

ahhh ok... i didnt even think about the fact that the transmission is back there and i could just ground to that.

on a side note. does anyone know where i could find a cable, or parts to make my own cable to run from the coil to the distributor. the stock one is like 10 inches long and i need one much much longer than that if possible. i want to move my coil to the area where the battery was originally located.

krystar

don't u want to minimize the distance between coil and spark plug. otherwise you're losing spark energy in the distance of the wire...right?

JET951

If you are to use the nasty carbon leads that companies try to sell you then yes, you will get a different resistance for each different lead length, the shorter the lead, the less the resistance.

now if you were to use stainless leads like what are originally used on our cars the resistance remains the same no matter how long the lead(stainless leads have no resistance). Porsche used 3K Ohm plug lead resistors. so that every spark plug receives exactly the same Voltage.

Cass944

i was looking on summit, they sell a whole lot of lengths of wire that you can cut to fit your needs, and also the ends that attach to the coil and the distributor. i just need to make sure i have the right sizes...

the plugs on both ends of the coil wire are the same size right? so if i figure out what size the plug is on the blaster 2 coil i should know what size ends i need for the wire i would assume.

Cass944

can anyone explain to me, or possibly find a picture of how the heck the brake booster connects to the brake pedal? i know im missing some kind of clip or screw or something that goes through the hole in the brake pedal... apparently whatever the piece is, its a special order part that has to come from germany and takes several weeks...

krystar

brake pedal is bottom one.


hmm maybe 10?

Cass944

i know, i need #10. it seems like there should be more to it than that though. isnt there an e-clip or something on the other side of it? i dont remember ever even seeing that piece when i took it apart

the part is only like 3 bucks but i only found one place it was available through and delivery was estimated at mid december...

Cass944

also, the gas in my gas tank has been in there for almost 3 years... any suggestions on that? just drain it? im guessing it cant be saved with octane booster or anything at this point

krystar

if it's only like a gallon in there, just fill up the tank. car might run bad for a while but it'll clear itself out.

if it's more than that, yea u wanna drain it.

Cass944

re-routed the hard lines for the clutch slave cylinder down below the brake booster and also tucked a bunch of wiring harness junk down under there too...


final product... kinda


it all looks kinda messy again but ill make it pretty again this weekend. the clutch hydrolic system is all hooked up and done

white924s

nice progress...this car is going to turn out looking great.

Cass944

found a better plug for this port on the manifold.


and finally got a few hard to find part ive been waiting for in the mail

krystar

ooo nice. what kind of plug is that?