Cass944

yeah duh that makes sense... i was just trying to see if there was any load on the battery when the car was off to make sure i had no voltage leaks.

yeah the timing is very much correct. I did the rebuild myself over the last 3 years or so hah.

i wish this car was like my vw where i could plug my laptop into it and it would tell me exactly what was wrong... but oh well. I'll have to find some more things to test. either way there are several gas leaks in the fuel rail area because most of the seals on the injectors and the regulator/dampner are super dried out

Cass944

there is for sure compression, and air obviously...

so it must be spark or fuel.... the fuel is a few years old but i have started up other cars that have been sitting with gas int he tank for years. they run rough but they will start up and at least stumble to the gas station.

I havent actually grounded a spark plug to the outside of the head and looked to see if there is spark yet, but i can tell that the plugs and inside of the cylinders do not smell like gas at all. so this is kinda telling me the injectors are not firing.

there is gas getting to the fuel rail. I used a jumper to bypass the DME relay to make sure the pump was running. as soon as i did this i heard the rail fill with gas then found gas seeping out from several locations slightly. nothing huge but still, tiny little leeks.

SOOOO...
1. spark is unknown at this point
2. fuel is pressurizing the fuel rail
3. plugs/cylinders do not smell of fuel after cranking a bit
4. 12v to coil
5.timing was (and still is) correct.

carlege

Tach Bounce?

Cass944

actually no i dont think so

maybe the ref sensors are switched? or not aligned right on the clutch housing?

apierce918

definitely double check em'

Cass944

can i just switch the plugs? or do i actually need to pull out the sensors and switch the holes they are in? the sensors looked identical to me but i really dont know.

I marked the harness with some numbered tape so i know i have them plugged back into the harness correctly... but i dont know if they are in the correct holes in the bracket. So if i could just switch the plugs at the harness that would be ideal

krystar

the sensors are identical. just swap plugs is fine.

Cass944

cool thanks. Im probly going to go pick up a noid light on the way home just to verify the injectors are getting no signal as well.

whats the process for making sure the ref sensors are gaped correctly? i know i read it somewhere before. but i just pretty much slapped mine on there

Cass944

ughhhhh i just found the procedure involving the .8mm washer being glued to the end of the speed sensor... i guess ill give that a try as well as testing all the resistances/continuity on the harness and junk tonight.

Cass944

what do the reference sensors actually use for reference? does the speed sensor use the starter ring gear, and the ref sensor uses the little allen key stud thing thats sticking out of the flywheel itself?

krystar

yea yer supposed to do the washer thing...but i just pushed the bracket down gently till i feel it bottom out...then pull it back "yay much". if it fails to run, decrease yay much, but always make sure it's not fully bottomed out.

Cass944

yeah thats what i was planning on doing.

i have a feeling its THAT or the wiring that come out the back of the sensors is so badly cracked and mangled that the sensors themselves are no longer making a connection with the ecu. i guess ill find out tonight

Cass944

am i doing this right?

these 2 pins should read 600 - 1600 ohms


these pins should read greater than 1Mohm


i get nothing for either sensor... i feel like im doing this wrong... is my meter on the correct setting for both?

Cass944

one of the sensors seems to be in much better condition... but i still get no reading at all from either one.

heres what the wires look like

JohnKoaWood

All that time and $$ to be outsmarted by $100 worth of sensors...