Weird sudden no-start
#1
Rainman
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Weird sudden no-start
Yesterday I was driving along and came off a light, accelerated in 1st to about 6000RPM and suddenly the car went dead, instantly. Like 6000-0RPM in under a second.
At first I thought I might have popped a timing belt but I pulled to the side of the road and used a pencil to put a mark on the belt and turned the key and the marks went away, so the belt was good. I used my tire wrench to loosen the fuel rail cap, it had fuel pressure and some fuel in the tank. Pump was coming on. I swapped DME relays, still nothing. It just cranks and cranks and sprays fuel.
Towed it home last night and today been trying to diagnose a no-spark condition.
There is no spark from any of the plugs, and no spark when a plug is connected directly to the coil output. I swapped with a spare DME, still nothing. Rotor was on tight, cleaned off some dirt from the rotor and the contacts but nothing.
Getting 12v on both sides of the coil and primary and secondary resistance tests passed. Checked the speed/reference sensors, one was kind of wonky in readings on oscilloscope and so that was just replaced with a spare, still nothing. The other one tested fine for voltage and resistance.
Tach bounces, but on first crank it will go up to like 3000RPM indicated (not really though) and after that it will bounce. Tried switching them still does the jumping still no start.
Seems that the coil is getting power but is not pulsing. Cam timing is bang on. Ideas?
Once again I have replaced already:
DME Relay
DME
Ignition coil
Speed sensor
At first I thought I might have popped a timing belt but I pulled to the side of the road and used a pencil to put a mark on the belt and turned the key and the marks went away, so the belt was good. I used my tire wrench to loosen the fuel rail cap, it had fuel pressure and some fuel in the tank. Pump was coming on. I swapped DME relays, still nothing. It just cranks and cranks and sprays fuel.
Towed it home last night and today been trying to diagnose a no-spark condition.
There is no spark from any of the plugs, and no spark when a plug is connected directly to the coil output. I swapped with a spare DME, still nothing. Rotor was on tight, cleaned off some dirt from the rotor and the contacts but nothing.
Getting 12v on both sides of the coil and primary and secondary resistance tests passed. Checked the speed/reference sensors, one was kind of wonky in readings on oscilloscope and so that was just replaced with a spare, still nothing. The other one tested fine for voltage and resistance.
Tach bounces, but on first crank it will go up to like 3000RPM indicated (not really though) and after that it will bounce. Tried switching them still does the jumping still no start.
Seems that the coil is getting power but is not pulsing. Cam timing is bang on. Ideas?
Once again I have replaced already:
DME Relay
DME
Ignition coil
Speed sensor
#7
Race Car
obviously difficult to diagnose over the net
Not sure if the signal is being interupted for the coil. I am guessing not.
The carbon button could be bad in teh cap, the coil wire could be bad too
Not sure if the signal is being interupted for the coil. I am guessing not.
The carbon button could be bad in teh cap, the coil wire could be bad too
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#8
Rainman
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dunno how this would be relevant but it died immediately after i hit the clutch to change gear. didnt even have time to do the 1-2 shift. makes me think maybe the clutch action jarred something? could a bump be enough to alter the gap or something of the sensors? they still test within spec though.
#9
Rainman
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at this point i have checked as much of the wiring harness as i can (excepting the part that is hidden on the front frame member) but all the other electrical systems that run parallel to the coil's power (within the same wire bundle) work, including the rad fans (controlled with AC switch), headlights, HL motor.
all i can think of now would be to run a new wire between the coil and the main wiring harness, bypassing the factory coil wiring altogether and seeing if that works.
#11
Hey Man
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I was going to say the same thing until I re-read where he says it sprays fuel. A bad or disconnected ref sensor won't allow the fuel pump to engage similar to a bad DME relay. Sounds more like he lost a ground connection or DME failure.
#12
Rainman
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checked the ref sensors at the connectors for voltage oscillation and resistance and stuff and they checked out, swapped in a spare speed sensor because it seemed a little wonky and it was good.
connectors were cleaned and are in good shape.
i swapped to a spare DME almost first thing, still no spark unless both dme's have fried ignition circuits, then i will try my 3rd dme for kicks.
im thinking i might just try to dig into the wiring harness, find the pin-1 wire (pulse to coil) and run a new wire between the DME and the coil and see if that fixes it.
connectors were cleaned and are in good shape.
i swapped to a spare DME almost first thing, still no spark unless both dme's have fried ignition circuits, then i will try my 3rd dme for kicks.
im thinking i might just try to dig into the wiring harness, find the pin-1 wire (pulse to coil) and run a new wire between the DME and the coil and see if that fixes it.
#13
Nordschleife Master
#14
Rainman
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For the fuel pump to start and remain running, for the ignition coil to develop secondary voltage, and for the injectors to fire, the DME computer must see an engine start signal or an engine running signal (greater than 200 RPM). When it does, it completes the circuit for the Fuel Pump / DME Relay secondary coil and the fuel pump starts. It also provides a ground or current flow path for the ignition coil primary and secondary coils. As a result, the current flow through the primary coil induces a voltage in the secondary coil. The voltage across the secondary coil is what is seen at the distributor. The engine cranking / running signal also goes to the injector drivers (2) which provide a ground or current flow path for the fuel injectors to open.
#15
Nordschleife Master
You checked both the primary and secondary resistance of the coil?
Can you check the voltage of the DME to coil wire for pulsing? unhook the wire from the coil, then test (with a testlight) between it and ground. Should pulse.
You can also check to see if that wire is grounded with a continuity tester (the "BEEP" setting on your multimeter). One lead on the wire, the other lead to the body of the car.
Can you check the voltage of the DME to coil wire for pulsing? unhook the wire from the coil, then test (with a testlight) between it and ground. Should pulse.
You can also check to see if that wire is grounded with a continuity tester (the "BEEP" setting on your multimeter). One lead on the wire, the other lead to the body of the car.