V2Rocket

got 12v on both sides of coil but there was no pulsing. the ground is not being switched for whatever reason.

m73m95

I think you've ruled out the DME (Unless you came across 2 bad ones .... doubtful). The cap and rotor should be fine as you've checked them.

I'm voting coil. You've got 12 volts to the coil, the only thing that controls that is the DME.....

Is this how you tested it?

Bri Bro

Setup a spark plug wire to look for a spark, then quickly ground and release the green wire on the coil. If this works, the coil is OK. Check the continuity of the green wire on the coil to the DME plug, pin 1.

V2Rocket

did these tests off clarks
Ignition Coil Test

1. Disconnect the ignition coil output wire at the distributor cap.
2. Connect a spark plug to the end of the ignition coil output wire which you just disconnected.
3. Connect a ground wire to the threaded portion of the spark plug.
4. Disconnect the ignition coil ground wire from the negative terminal on the coil (Green Wire).
5. Connect one end of a ground wire to the ignition coil negative terminal.
6. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
7. Tap the other end of the ignition coil ground wire jumper on an good grounding point (for example the battery negative terminal) and look for sparks at the spark plug that correspond to the frequency of your tapping of the ground wire.
8. If you have a good spark at the spark plug, the ignition coil is good.
9. If you don't get a good spark, check for approximately 12 VDC from the coil positive terminal (black wire) to ground with the ignition switch in the ON position. You should also get approximately 12 VDC from the coil negative terminal (Green wire) to ground

Ignition Coil Resistance Check

In addition to the test above, you may elect to perform an ignition coil resistance check as confirmation of the coil's condition.

1. Check the ignition coil primary coil resistance by connecting an ohmmeter between the positive (Black wire) and negative (Green wire) terminals on the coil. The resistance should be 0.4 to 0.6 ohms.
2. Check the ignition coil secondary coil resistance by connecting an ohmmeter between the coil output terminal and the ignition coil negative terminal. The resistance should be 5000 to 7200 ohms.



tried with my new coil, didnt get any spark at the plug. didnt try it with the other coil though, but switching coils didnt start the car.

Bri Bro

You certainly are doing the right testing. Everything points at the coil or the spark plug wire you are testing the coil with. Can you confirm that either coil works on another car? One other remote cause might be in the wiring of the 12V going to the coil. Maybe the wire is resistive and dropping the voltage going to the coil. Try connecting directly to 12V at the battery (fused wire for safety).

Yabo

What about factory alarm?Maybe you have it jumper bypassed and one of the jumpers fell out??

V2Rocket

I assume you mean, putting a fused line directly between the battery and the coil, and then grounding the other wire to check for spark?
No alarm was ever on my car.

m73m95

Any way possible the ground fell off the engine?

I would have bet money it was the coil. You know its not, and you've ruled out the DME, and the DME relay as well.... wtf else could it be? Short in the wire to the DME? Ground bolt vibrated out (at your 6k rpm)....

V2Rocket

idk.

like i said, just driving on streets, coming off a light, run it quick up to 6000 in 1st (to 42mph to match traffic) and immediately after hitting the clutch to change gears it went from 6000RPM to 0 instantly.

this makes me think that either:
1) hitting the clutch pedal somehow killed it
2) it died briefly BEFORE hitting the clutch but still spun at 6000 due to wheel speed, and then the sudden disengagement caused it to stop.

gotta be a wire somewhere.

Bri Bro

That is correct. Mighty strange problem.

V2Rocket

ill try that, thanks. that should tell me that the problem is in the wiring to the coil.

any idea what size fuse to use?

Bri Bro

20 amp should be OK.

V2Rocket

hooked up a BRAND new coil (now i have 3 total lol) to the battery on positive and negative sides, grounded sparkplug strap, got small spark on the plug every time i touched the ground wire to the neg terminal on battery. will try to do it on the car in the morning. if that doesnt work its full grounds reworking and if that isnt it, dme rewiring.

V2Rocket

been going at it since 6am. tried splicing a length of wire between just before the 9-pin plug straight to the coil, nothing. mixed and matched various splices, nothing. removed and cleaned the large grounds at the back of the block and replaced them, no change.

coil checks out for continuity. checked the dme plug for continuity, all grounds are good (<1 ohm) except pin 28. pin 28 has no continuity. im guessing this is my problem. anyone know where that wire grounds to? or, is there any forseeable problem with cutting the wire just after the dme plug and running a new wire to the bellhousing?

KuHL 951

I think #28 is a ground for the speed sensor; #26 is a ground for the ref. sensor. It shouldn't matter where it grounds as long as it's low resistance.