Vario-cam self-destructed this week, what's the car worth as is?
#31
Race Car
instead of playing devils advocate, tell me how much money you are talking about. is a non running S2 worth 30% more than zilch, or 30% more than bubkus?
I know what a running good condition S2 was worth less than a year ago. I know i got a lot less than the nutswingers here thought it was worth. i also know none of the nutswingers here were willing to pony up what they said it was worth, and were not willing to pony up what it went for.
so whats it worth with a busted up head?
I know what a running good condition S2 was worth less than a year ago. I know i got a lot less than the nutswingers here thought it was worth. i also know none of the nutswingers here were willing to pony up what they said it was worth, and were not willing to pony up what it went for.
so whats it worth with a busted up head?
Not trying to be a smartass, just trying to point out that S2's do have a bit more appeal without those options. The ABS that they all had (I believe they all had) is a big bonus on the track, and the ability to run 10's and 8'5's in E-class is a big bonus, as no other car in that class can run as wide tires (Turbos can only run 9's and 8's, per class rules, I think 911's may be 9's and 7's?).
The car looks nice. If I were in the market, I'd probably go for $3000-$3500. But I'm not in the market, so my opinion is pretty meaningless. I wouldn't pay more than about $2500 for a comparable turbo.
#32
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I bought my S2 with this same problem (I knew at the time).
I paid $3500 for it and it cost me $4500 by the time all was said and doner to repair everything (bent valves etc). So I had 8K into it with a completely rebuilt motor. I had 96K miles on it when I bought it.
and like evryone said the S2 does not have the variocam. Thats why the 968 makes about 30 more HP than the S2's..
If you were on the east coast I'd buy it from you...
I paid $3500 for it and it cost me $4500 by the time all was said and doner to repair everything (bent valves etc). So I had 8K into it with a completely rebuilt motor. I had 96K miles on it when I bought it.
and like evryone said the S2 does not have the variocam. Thats why the 968 makes about 30 more HP than the S2's..
If you were on the east coast I'd buy it from you...
there is a very thin or non existent market for 8k for low mileage, clean, running S2s, which makes the market for non running (equals we know one problem and dont know if there are others so knock $$ off the price) S2s.
sadly, the car in question is worth more parted out, or about the same as a comparable turbo.
#34
If it's a staight businees decision, get what you can for it and buy a honda.
But it's not - we're emotionally attached to these cars so they're personally worth more to fix it.
It's not real smart, but it's the life we chose.
Now, pull the valve cover and see how emotionally attached you still are after inspecting the carnage.
Bet this wasn't too much help.
But it's not - we're emotionally attached to these cars so they're personally worth more to fix it.
It's not real smart, but it's the life we chose.
Now, pull the valve cover and see how emotionally attached you still are after inspecting the carnage.
Bet this wasn't too much help.
#35
Race Car
A street car is another matter entirely. I wasn't trying to argue, I was just pointing out that there are people like me to whom this car would appeal without the premium options you listed.
#36
Im an S2 Owner and got a great deal on a running S2...
Im lucky enough to be a mechanic by second career trade and do all my own mechanics and service to my cars... So a repair like this would be scouting a new Head for 100-500 bucks and installing a new cam chain tensioner $150 with my own labor so here is a car that for no more than $650 could be repaired by your do-it-yourself tech...
Now once it goes to a shop its a whole other ball game... Now I would highly recommend that if you opt to fix it and to help save some labor bucks... shop around for a head gasket set, cam chain tensioner, timing belt if you opt for that too you will save big money in parts alone because shop always get parts at cost which is usally like a 25%-150% mark up on parts alone... so with that said go buy your own parts and put them in a box for the mechanic...
Second take the old head off the block and put it in a box in the trunk... and make sure you ask the shop you take it to; to give you a written quote on the labor to "install" a head gasket and the addition of a timing belt... make sure they take of at least %40-%45 of the labor time for the Head portion because you will have already taken it off... if you have the tools remove the timing belt stuff too... so you can haggle another 40%-45% off the labor time on a timing belt...
Just what I would if I was trying to save some money and couldnt afford a shop... and any good shop will know how to put it back together... I know I would if you brought it to me in a shop in pieces...
Just my 2 cents...
Im lucky enough to be a mechanic by second career trade and do all my own mechanics and service to my cars... So a repair like this would be scouting a new Head for 100-500 bucks and installing a new cam chain tensioner $150 with my own labor so here is a car that for no more than $650 could be repaired by your do-it-yourself tech...
Now once it goes to a shop its a whole other ball game... Now I would highly recommend that if you opt to fix it and to help save some labor bucks... shop around for a head gasket set, cam chain tensioner, timing belt if you opt for that too you will save big money in parts alone because shop always get parts at cost which is usally like a 25%-150% mark up on parts alone... so with that said go buy your own parts and put them in a box for the mechanic...
Second take the old head off the block and put it in a box in the trunk... and make sure you ask the shop you take it to; to give you a written quote on the labor to "install" a head gasket and the addition of a timing belt... make sure they take of at least %40-%45 of the labor time for the Head portion because you will have already taken it off... if you have the tools remove the timing belt stuff too... so you can haggle another 40%-45% off the labor time on a timing belt...
Just what I would if I was trying to save some money and couldnt afford a shop... and any good shop will know how to put it back together... I know I would if you brought it to me in a shop in pieces...
Just my 2 cents...
#37
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IMHO the car is worth $1500 or less as it sits. Here are some comps.... From what I've seen the S2 cars are worth less than the turbo even though some would say they are a bettery car in terms of reliability and usable power band.
1989 944 S2 with 165K for $3750
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...4-s2-sale.html
1990 S2 with 71k for $4000
http://wichitafalls.craigslist.org/cto/1427086327.html
1989 944 S2 with 165K for $3750
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...4-s2-sale.html
1990 S2 with 71k for $4000
http://wichitafalls.craigslist.org/cto/1427086327.html
#39
Drifting
Thread Starter
Well, a fellow rennlister came over last night and based in his advice I'm going to pull the head and get it fixed. No teeth came of either camshaft so they are perfect. Big issue now is to get the tensioner perch repaired. He has even offered to help with the work if needed. This is a great forum with generous members. I love this place, thanks Steve!
#40
Rennlist Member
From the perspective of someone who actually has a E Class S2 race car, after you bought a car like this, you will need another 15-20K and If DIY, many many months to turn it into a "decentrace" race car. Some proven race cars (both S2 and Turbos) with fresh motors have been on the market for 12-15 month and their prices are getting to below $15K. It is much cheaper to buy even if someone gives you a street car.
To the OP, good decision to rebuild. If done correctly and maintenance is kept up, these are still nice cars.
To the OP, good decision to rebuild. If done correctly and maintenance is kept up, these are still nice cars.
Keep in mind I'm talking about it from the perspective of an E-class race car. Expecting to do one's own labor isn't out of line, and expecting to rebuild an engine at some point isn't, either. So either someone looking for a race car could buy a running S2 like his for $6000 or so, or one that isn't for half that, knowing that only a little bit more work would go into it, seems to be a borderline no-brainer type of call to me.
#42
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Welding on the head is no picnic but it can be done, I have not tried it though.
I repaired one once by milling off part of the mount and bolting in a new piece of aluminum in it's place. I had one good mounting ear and one missing. The new piece I also bolted to the head with some holes I drilled, tapped and countersunk in what was left of the webbing. I used a stud set in the new material where the broken ear was to hold one side of the tensioner, and through-bolted the other side after drilling out the threads in the head.
It worked.
-Joel.
I repaired one once by milling off part of the mount and bolting in a new piece of aluminum in it's place. I had one good mounting ear and one missing. The new piece I also bolted to the head with some holes I drilled, tapped and countersunk in what was left of the webbing. I used a stud set in the new material where the broken ear was to hold one side of the tensioner, and through-bolted the other side after drilling out the threads in the head.
It worked.
-Joel.
#43
Drifting
Thread Starter
Welding on the head is no picnic but it can be done, I have not tried it though.
I repaired one once by milling off part of the mount and bolting in a new piece of aluminum in it's place. I had one good mounting ear and one missing. The new piece I also bolted to the head with some holes I drilled, tapped and countersunk in what was left of the webbing. I used a stud set in the new material where the broken ear was to hold one side of the tensioner, and through-bolted the other side after drilling out the threads in the head.
It worked.
-Joel.
I repaired one once by milling off part of the mount and bolting in a new piece of aluminum in it's place. I had one good mounting ear and one missing. The new piece I also bolted to the head with some holes I drilled, tapped and countersunk in what was left of the webbing. I used a stud set in the new material where the broken ear was to hold one side of the tensioner, and through-bolted the other side after drilling out the threads in the head.
It worked.
-Joel.
#44
Drifting
Thread Starter
Well, thought I'd update this thread a little. Haven't had much time to put in to this so after some delay finally got the head off yesterday and much to my surprise, don't appear to have any bent valves! No damage at all, go figure, other than the broken tensioner mount that is. I've order a head gasket set and hopefully all the rest of the seals I'll need. Who sells the plastic guide/foot that goes on the tension?
#45
Not Special
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DAMN, that's lucky!
Here's info on where to find the plastic pads:
http://boerger.golden-tech.com/image...eplacement.htm
Sounds like Zim's (www.allzim.com) carries them. Look at 944online, Paragon, and Pelican, too. They may also carry them.
Here's info on where to find the plastic pads:
http://boerger.golden-tech.com/image...eplacement.htm
Sounds like Zim's (www.allzim.com) carries them. Look at 944online, Paragon, and Pelican, too. They may also carry them.