IanM

My in-dash voltage gauge reads just over halfway between the 12 and 14 volt lines when I first start my car (say 13.2V), but when I put a voltmeter on the battery it reads 13.9V.

Once the car is at operating temp. (accessories off), the in-dash gauge reads just above 12V (say 12.3V), but the voltmeter on the battery reads 13.4V.

What does your dash voltage gauge read??

M758

Mine is almost 14 when starting. Then goes to mid way. A little less with the Lights on.

I have a new battery. I used to be a bit lower with the old battery.

Jeff928S4

My response is the exact same as M758's.

944S Boyeee

tazman

Well I never checked mine to compare with the car running and a volt meter but my dash gauge is about 13.5V when I first start the car then settles to around 13V when the car warms up. The other day when I went to hook up the battery charger because I did not start the car in a while I checked the dash gauge and it was below 12V then I put a volt meter at the battery and it read 12.25V so I have about .5V difference between the gauge and at the battery.

IanM

thanks for your responses. I guess if I were to start a thread about stupid ebay ads, that'd be sure to gain interest.

IceShark

Folks badmouth that in cabin volt meter. I think it is pretty accurate.

Your problem is leaking juice out of the fuse/relay box. That is one of the prime POS ever built. I'm sure Lucas is drooling that they didn't dream this nightmare up first.

Marcus

Usually sits just below 14v mark, but drops with acessories on. It does occasionally drop to 12v for a time and then jumps back up.

IanM

Yes, I'm sure you're right. I'm just trying to get a feel for how similar my voltage gauge is to others out there. I'm hoping the ground straps you're sending me will help. Where is the under dash ground located, the one you mentioned may factor into my low voltage gauges readings? One other thing IceShark - when I'm moving the various hoses and wires out of the way to get to the back of the engine ground strap, do I need to first drain my coolant?

David Floyd

Mine runs around 13.5-14 volts

I have Icesharks headlight kit with the 14.4 voltage regulator.

Received Icesharks battery cables Saturday, this should fix some of the stock grounding problems.

jabbadeznuts

In between the 12 and 14

jabbadeznuts

In between the 12 and 14

944Play

Right around the middle (13v) most of the time. I tend to ignore it; it doesn't move nearly as much as the guage in my Volvo.

My 944's temp and oil pressure guages are a lot more interesting than the voltmeter. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

ELLSSUU

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by IanM:
<strong>thanks for your responses. I guess if I were to start a thread about stupid ebay ads, that'd be sure to gain interest.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Mine bounces a little b/t 12-14. Anyone else experience this? I'm hoping IceShark's kit will help with this and the temp needle which moves a decent bit.

Oh and sorry guys I thought I would change the heading to "ignore" on a accidental double post and it would be deleted or ignored. I apologize. Maybe I'll change the heading to something relevent and see if it gets "ignored."

IceShark

LSU, your new battery cables will stop the floating voltage. But make sure you have the cooling hose on the alternator. that makes a huge difference.

Your supplemental positive will go out tomorrow or Wed, whenever I get around to packing. I need some more peanuts and the signaficant other is going to pick up a bag with the truck tomorrow when she goes to work.

Waterguy

Mine read a fairly constant 13V before pulling it off the road. The readings went up for about a week after I pulled the guage cluster and cleaned those contacts, then dropped back down again. Will try the interior grounds next.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva"> One other thing IceShark - when I'm moving the various hoses and wires out of the way to get to the back of the engine ground strap, do I need to first drain my coolant?
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">I just did my main bellhousing grounds while I have the intake manifold off. I don't think I could have reached them unless I had removed the fly wheel sensor connector bracket and the heater valve. The intake manifold can stay on, though. I think you could partially drain your cooling system and remove your heater valve, then clean your grounds.