Burning oil like a navy destroyer
08-20-2009, 11:33 AM
#16
Three Wheelin'
I don't know why people say this is easy...yeah, easy if you have half the engine out maybe...
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...placement.html
Do a forum search for "AOS Seal" and you'll get plenty of info.
08-20-2009, 12:12 PM
#18
Nordschleife Master
You are either burning it (worn valve guide seals or piston oil scraper rings or ingesting it through the intake. There should only be fumes coming out of that AOS which will cause a light mist of oil to settle on the j-boot. If you have pools of oil that is the problem.
You will lose more synthetic than dyno oil in these engines, especially if you are running a low viscosity synthetic. I use Shell Rotella T 15W-40 or Brad Penn 15W-40 without any issues.
08-20-2009, 03:06 PM
#19
Nordschleife Master
Spencer's engine is new. There is a pretty major problem going on. I highly doubt his choice of oil has anything to do with this.
Spencer, I think you should have a leak down test done (or do it yourself if you have the tools). There has to be something internally wrong. I'm guessing a broken ring, or a gouged cylinder
. I can't explain why there's no smoke out of the exhaust, but the oil has to be going somewhere.
Maybe the cat is cleaning the oil out of the exhaust, in which case, you might be due for a new cat as well. Maybe pull the O2 and see if its covered in soot.
Spencer, I think you should have a leak down test done (or do it yourself if you have the tools). There has to be something internally wrong. I'm guessing a broken ring, or a gouged cylinder
. I can't explain why there's no smoke out of the exhaust, but the oil has to be going somewhere.Maybe the cat is cleaning the oil out of the exhaust, in which case, you might be due for a new cat as well. Maybe pull the O2 and see if its covered in soot.
08-20-2009, 03:30 PM
#20
Rainman
Rennlist Member
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Thread Starter
Before I go check my j-boot and plugs...
A broken ring or gouged cylinder would be noticeable for power output. My car still pulls HARD (well, as hard as it can with 150hp and a 3.375 axle) all the way to redline without issue. Catalyst is less than a year old. I'll try to get my o2 out as well. Will let you know in a bit.
A broken ring or gouged cylinder would be noticeable for power output. My car still pulls HARD (well, as hard as it can with 150hp and a 3.375 axle) all the way to redline without issue. Catalyst is less than a year old. I'll try to get my o2 out as well. Will let you know in a bit.
08-20-2009, 10:47 PM
#21
Rainman
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Thread Starter
plugs are all dry and whitish on the tips.
pulled the j boot, clean and dry until just after the aos hose connects to it, the inside of the bellows were wet with oil. saw a bit of a shimmer on the inside of the throttle but peeked inside the manifold and didnt see any obvious signs of alot of oil. must be constant, low-quantity vapor being burned...
pulled the j boot, clean and dry until just after the aos hose connects to it, the inside of the bellows were wet with oil. saw a bit of a shimmer on the inside of the throttle but peeked inside the manifold and didnt see any obvious signs of alot of oil. must be constant, low-quantity vapor being burned...
08-20-2009, 10:57 PM
#22
Nordschleife Master
Its really easy to replace those seals. Should take an hour or so on a new engine (no rusted bolts).
Just make sure you lube up the new seals good before you put them in. When you order the seals, order new intake gaskets too!
Just make sure you lube up the new seals good before you put them in. When you order the seals, order new intake gaskets too!
08-20-2009, 11:16 PM
#24
Nordschleife Master
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...exhaust-2.html
page 2, steel wool...
08-20-2009, 11:21 PM
#26
Nordschleife Master
with the engine running?
This might be a dumb question, but are the rings in your new engine made for our alusil block?
I'm thinking that maybe (because you have a lot of blow by) that your rings are either shot, or you have a broken/seized one. If the right rings weren't put on the pistons (doubtful), then the silicon might have worn down the rings, OR if the block wasn't prepped properly then your rings my also be shot.
A broken or seized ring can be from a few reasons, but will show up in a leak down test as 1 cylinder being worse than the others.....
Either condition might not be bad enough for you to notice a loss in power because the cylinder is still compressing the air/fuel mix, just not as much.
This might be a dumb question, but are the rings in your new engine made for our alusil block?
I'm thinking that maybe (because you have a lot of blow by) that your rings are either shot, or you have a broken/seized one. If the right rings weren't put on the pistons (doubtful), then the silicon might have worn down the rings, OR if the block wasn't prepped properly then your rings my also be shot.
A broken or seized ring can be from a few reasons, but will show up in a leak down test as 1 cylinder being worse than the others.....
Either condition might not be bad enough for you to notice a loss in power because the cylinder is still compressing the air/fuel mix, just not as much.
08-20-2009, 11:33 PM
#27
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
with the engine running?
This might be a dumb question, but are the rings in your new engine made for our alusil block?
I'm thinking that maybe (because you have a lot of blow by) that your rings are either shot, or you have a broken/seized one. If the right rings weren't put on the pistons (doubtful), then the silicon might have worn down the rings, OR if the block wasn't prepped properly then your rings my also be shot.
A broken or seized ring can be from a few reasons, but will show up in a leak down test as 1 cylinder being worse than the others.....
Either condition might not be bad enough for you to notice a loss in power because the cylinder is still compressing the air/fuel mix, just not as much.
This might be a dumb question, but are the rings in your new engine made for our alusil block?
I'm thinking that maybe (because you have a lot of blow by) that your rings are either shot, or you have a broken/seized one. If the right rings weren't put on the pistons (doubtful), then the silicon might have worn down the rings, OR if the block wasn't prepped properly then your rings my also be shot.
A broken or seized ring can be from a few reasons, but will show up in a leak down test as 1 cylinder being worse than the others.....
Either condition might not be bad enough for you to notice a loss in power because the cylinder is still compressing the air/fuel mix, just not as much.
I only check the oil when the car is up to temperature but is shut off, and when I go to add oil after checking the dipstick, vapors come out for the entire time the cap is off.
08-20-2009, 11:36 PM
#28
Nordschleife Master
Rings were OEM-spec. At time of teardown engine block had ~66,000 miles on it since new. Cylinder walls were PRISTINE. I'll do a compression test in the morning, what kind of numbers should I expect to see cold/hot? About 150?
I only check the oil when the car is up to temperature but is shut off, and when I go to add oil after checking the dipstick, vapors come out for the entire time the cap is off.
I only check the oil when the car is up to temperature but is shut off, and when I go to add oil after checking the dipstick, vapors come out for the entire time the cap is off.
less than 5% per cylinder, with all within 2% of each other.. beyond this is sign of evidence of worn / broken parts somewhere...
If you see excess leakdown, open the oil cap and take off teh j boot... listen to the AOS, the intake and the tailpipe... the hissing is the source of the issue (intake for intake valve, tailpipe for exhaust valve, and AOS for ring blow by)
08-21-2009, 02:14 AM
#30
Rainman
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Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
now that ive discovered there is oil in my j-boot and intake and my aos vaporizes can we rule out the rings/valves? i HIGHLY doubt that there is anything even slightly wrong with them. also today i noticed what might be a small leak from under the dipstick but not sure.
in the next few days i will probably be changing the oil again (adding a 951 oil cooler) so i will start again with 7 or 7.5 qts (whatever it takes to fill up that cooler too) and track it after say a week to get some idea of how much is disappearing.
quick question...would extra oil burning have anything to do with the fact that pretty much every other stoplight i gun it up to 6000+rpm in 1st and when hitting the freeway just miss the rev limiter (limiter is ~6520 and i hit about 6400 every time lol) until 4th gear? i run it a little higher around town because i have the turbo gearbox and need to get moving...i told you i run it hard (only once its warm though!).
no, basically i flog the holy hell out of it.
in the next few days i will probably be changing the oil again (adding a 951 oil cooler) so i will start again with 7 or 7.5 qts (whatever it takes to fill up that cooler too) and track it after say a week to get some idea of how much is disappearing.
quick question...would extra oil burning have anything to do with the fact that pretty much every other stoplight i gun it up to 6000+rpm in 1st and when hitting the freeway just miss the rev limiter (limiter is ~6520 and i hit about 6400 every time lol) until 4th gear? i run it a little higher around town because i have the turbo gearbox and need to get moving...i told you i run it hard (only once its warm though!).
no, basically i flog the holy hell out of it.