Nissan quest alternator in n/a?
02-15-2011, 07:50 AM
#31
Nordschleife Master
The positive terminal goes to a connector lug closest to the power lead, the field wire goes to the further terminal (the quest alternator uses an exciter and a field wire, the jumper acts as the exciter, the other terminal is the field connection, just add a spade terminal lug to the blue wire and you are ready to rock and roll!
Thanks Spencer, but I don't think that's the route I want to take.
I'm just going to go buy another one...hopefully of better quality than the one I got from AutoZone lol.
I'd just like to know which brands seem to fit our cars better, because I had to modify the case of mine a lot more than Joka had to.
I'm just going to go buy another one...hopefully of better quality than the one I got from AutoZone lol.
I'd just like to know which brands seem to fit our cars better, because I had to modify the case of mine a lot more than Joka had to.
IMO it could be worthwhile to get the boneyard one and have it remade. i am doing this with a 100amp nippondenso alternator off a volvo, it's dead but it can be rebuilt to 130amp no problem by a local shop for about $150, about $100 for a standard rebuild.
look for the nippondenso though, they may try to sell an american brand for the mercury version of the van
look for the nippondenso though, they may try to sell an american brand for the mercury version of the van
at $150 plus the cost of the alternator needing to be rebuilt you have a margin of less than $20.... I'm a fan of a much more modern alternator for a difference of $20, but I am also a big fan of NOT doing what everyone else is doing, so I say rock out and post your results!
Last edited by JohnKoaWood; 02-15-2011 at 09:13 AM.
02-15-2011, 11:00 AM
#34
Three Wheelin'
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I'm curious as to the amount of effort required to turn/run this alternator? Less effort to run it, equals less parasitic horsepower draw. (increase in overall VE of the engine) To a much much lesser degree, but the same principal of reducing the weight of the flywheel.
To the next person that tries this, could they compare the force required to run the old vs new. It may be difficult to compare, but even a ballpark numbers like 20% less effort to run it etc...
If you add up enough of these little tricks, it can make a difference that you can feel. I've done these types of mods to other engines with noticeable success. In racing, its these little details that can give you that edge over the competition, especially in restricted classes. (and no, I'm talking about this one and only mod)
To the next person that tries this, could they compare the force required to run the old vs new. It may be difficult to compare, but even a ballpark numbers like 20% less effort to run it etc...
If you add up enough of these little tricks, it can make a difference that you can feel. I've done these types of mods to other engines with noticeable success. In racing, its these little details that can give you that edge over the competition, especially in restricted classes. (and no, I'm talking about this one and only mod)
02-15-2011, 11:18 AM
#35
Nordschleife Master
I'm curious as to the amount of effort required to turn/run this alternator? Less effort to run it, equals less parasitic horsepower draw. (increase in overall VE of the engine) To a much much lesser degree, but the same principal of reducing the weight of the flywheel.
To the next person that tries this, could they compare the force required to run the old vs new. It may be difficult to compare, but even a ballpark numbers like 20% less effort to run it etc...
If you add up enough of these little tricks, it can make a difference that you can feel. I've done these types of mods to other engines with noticeable success. In racing, its these little details that can give you that edge over the competition, especially in restricted classes. (and no, I'm talking about this one and only mod)
To the next person that tries this, could they compare the force required to run the old vs new. It may be difficult to compare, but even a ballpark numbers like 20% less effort to run it etc...
If you add up enough of these little tricks, it can make a difference that you can feel. I've done these types of mods to other engines with noticeable success. In racing, its these little details that can give you that edge over the competition, especially in restricted classes. (and no, I'm talking about this one and only mod)
I will be changing the belt today, but dont have ready access to a dial torque wrench... FWIW on spinning the old vs new alternators, the old would complete approx 360 degree spin, where as the new on would freewheel... very little resistance to spinning, but that could be caused by the newness...
02-15-2011, 01:02 PM
#37
Nordschleife Master
I cannot believe you did this so fast. It took me almost a full day. I had to reduce the thickness of my mount the entire way across. I had to modify the alternator itself a lot more than you did too. That is the reason why I think choosing the correct brand of alternator is the key to this project.
Fantastic job!!
Fantastic job!!
02-15-2011, 01:03 PM
#38
Nordschleife Master
You to Olli... you guys over there continue to amaze me with the inovation.. I need to get back to it, now that I have a reliable transport again, I can shift focus back to my 951... where the REAL work is still to come!
Thanks, I was pretty suprised myself by the time it took, I was expecting much more time given the reported results to date... I was also suprised by the required level of effort... seemed pretty easy once I got in my head the order in which to do it, and formed my plan of attack!
Pulley, required moding the housing to accept the porsche pulley, once the pulley was mounted I then went about modifying the housing to match the mount spacing of the Bosch alternator... once I could mount it to the factory mount, I addressed the mount... stood back and kinda was amazed it was ready to go into the car!
FWIW, the jumper I made up I soldered the crimps after crimping them, then shrunk the heat shrink over the whole deal.. I think It ended up pretty clean end result, and I am happy as could be with the performance!
I cannot believe you did this so fast. It took me almost a full day. I had to reduce the thickness of my mount the entire way across. I had to modify the alternator itself a lot more than you did too. That is the reason why I think choosing the correct brand of alternator is the key to this project.
Fantastic job!!
Fantastic job!!
Pulley, required moding the housing to accept the porsche pulley, once the pulley was mounted I then went about modifying the housing to match the mount spacing of the Bosch alternator... once I could mount it to the factory mount, I addressed the mount... stood back and kinda was amazed it was ready to go into the car!
FWIW, the jumper I made up I soldered the crimps after crimping them, then shrunk the heat shrink over the whole deal.. I think It ended up pretty clean end result, and I am happy as could be with the performance!
02-15-2011, 01:05 PM
#39
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
How much is the used, dead alternator... total cost for this for me was $212 for the alternator (could try to return one of my dead alternators for the $27 core.. but really, $27?? and a $24 Gates belt that I will be picking up today.
at $150 plus the cost of the alternator needing to be rebuilt you have a margin of less than $20.... I'm a fan of a much more modern alternator for a difference of $20, but I am also a big fan of NOT doing what everyone else is doing, so I say rock out and post your results!
at $150 plus the cost of the alternator needing to be rebuilt you have a margin of less than $20.... I'm a fan of a much more modern alternator for a difference of $20, but I am also a big fan of NOT doing what everyone else is doing, so I say rock out and post your results!
a standard alternator rebuild, regardless of type, is $100.
i was comparing to a different alternator, a 100amp volvo nippondenso that i am using on my car. to have the VOLVO built to 130 amps, the same as the QUEST, would be $150.
to buy a junkyard NISSAN QUEST alternator would be $30, plus $100 to rebuild it.
02-15-2011, 01:13 PM
#40
Nordschleife Master
a standard alternator rebuild, regardless of type, is $100.
i was comparing to a different alternator, a 100amp volvo nippondenso that i am using on my car. to have the VOLVO built to 130 amps, the same as the QUEST, would be $150.
to buy a junkyard NISSAN QUEST alternator would be $30, plus $100 to rebuild it.
i was comparing to a different alternator, a 100amp volvo nippondenso that i am using on my car. to have the VOLVO built to 130 amps, the same as the QUEST, would be $150.
to buy a junkyard NISSAN QUEST alternator would be $30, plus $100 to rebuild it.
Post up your results when you get it done, I love seeing different stuff done... it helps keep the community up to date, and presents options to try to save the breed as much as save a few dollars!
02-16-2011, 03:54 AM
#41
Since Nissan Quest was never imported to Finland, can you guys tell me what engines it used? Most likely the same alternator can be found from some other Nissan models which were available also here. Nissan alternators can be easily found used, also new ones are cheap. Plan is to develop a kit with billet bracket and pulley (both A/C and non A/C) and perhaps including alternator, which will bolt on to our cars directly without any modifications.
02-16-2011, 07:12 AM
#42
Race Car
Since Nissan Quest was never imported to Finland, can you guys tell me what engines it used? Most likely the same alternator can be found from some other Nissan models which were available also here. Nissan alternators can be easily found used, also new ones are cheap. Plan is to develop a kit with billet bracket and pulley (both A/C and non A/C) and perhaps including alternator, which will bolt on to our cars directly without any modifications.
02-16-2011, 07:51 PM
#43
Nordschleife Master
Remy part number 14455
Worldwide part number 14455
Beck/Arnley part number 186-0658
Only used on Nissan Quest and Mercury Villager...
And the smaller belt part number listed in the other thread... is TIGHT to get on... but it does fit, didn't have to go nearly as far out on the adjuster, and the belt is nowhere near as tight to not squeal as the original alternator had to have the belt... even with the AC running!
Worldwide part number 14455
Beck/Arnley part number 186-0658
Only used on Nissan Quest and Mercury Villager...
And the smaller belt part number listed in the other thread... is TIGHT to get on... but it does fit, didn't have to go nearly as far out on the adjuster, and the belt is nowhere near as tight to not squeal as the original alternator had to have the belt... even with the AC running!
02-17-2011, 02:33 AM
#45
OK, thanks for the information. Have to look Nissan Maxima unit. That Nissan model was available also here. Taurus' are odd birds here in Finland like every other european country.