How long to get 944/51 oil pressure. Vid added + new "issue"
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
How long to get 944/51 oil pressure. Vid added + new "issue"
So for the past 3 days (on the first start of the day) my 951 has been taking about 3 seconds to build up oil pressure - it used to it a bit quicker. Once it gets pressure, it never goes below 3bar even when hot. Above 3.5K rpm I have 4.5ish bar even when hot.
I am using canton racing cartridge filters and castrol gtx 20w-50. It has been about 65* and very wet in the mornings.
I'm just trying to get an idea of how long it takes other 944/951s to build oil pressure. I know it should be a bit quicker, does anyone have any ideas of what would cause this?
I am using canton racing cartridge filters and castrol gtx 20w-50. It has been about 65* and very wet in the mornings.
I'm just trying to get an idea of how long it takes other 944/951s to build oil pressure. I know it should be a bit quicker, does anyone have any ideas of what would cause this?
Last edited by MM951; 07-06-2009 at 01:31 PM.
#2
Nordschleife Master
3 seconds seems a bit long, but all your other readings seem ok. Sure it just not a sticky gauge, they sometimes stick in the off position.
Just tried mine from cold, less than 1 second after I release the key and 4.5 bar. When it's hot I get 2+ bar at idle and 3.5+ bar above 2500rpm, and that's in FL.
I also get a slight tap-tap for that initial 1 second from cold, which is just the tappets saying good morning to me.
Just tried mine from cold, less than 1 second after I release the key and 4.5 bar. When it's hot I get 2+ bar at idle and 3.5+ bar above 2500rpm, and that's in FL.
I also get a slight tap-tap for that initial 1 second from cold, which is just the tappets saying good morning to me.
#3
Hey Man
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Sounds a bit long. Is it that much different than before? Does the Canton filter setup retain oil for start-up? It could be your oil pressure sensor is just getting old or poor grounds resulting in a slower response time at the gauge. Mine builds pressure about 1 second after it fires, but doesn't show much while cranking. Could also be your OPRV lower o-ring isn't sealing perfect or has some small debris internally. Swap in a spare or loaner OPRV and see if it still does it.
#5
Nordschleife Master
Mike, there was alot of talk about those Canton filters. Mainly on the 968 forum (both on here and the seperate BBS). Mostly talked about the anti-drain valve not being sufficient causing it to take a while to build oil pressure. The valve is some sort of rubber flap that deteriorates. 968Forums.Com had a pretty lengthy thread about it.
I still use the standard OC142 Mahle filter. Oil pressure comes up almost instantly with Redline 15w50 in the same weather temps.
I still use the standard OC142 Mahle filter. Oil pressure comes up almost instantly with Redline 15w50 in the same weather temps.
#6
Race Director
Thread Starter
I'll take a video tomorrow morning showing a cold startup. When I say "build pressure" I mean it takes about 3 seconds from when the starter turns until I have full oil pressure. I'd guess before it took about 1-2 seconds. My car also starts on the first crank/cycle - much faster than any other 951 I have heard - so maybe there is less time to build up pressure during cranking? Still does not explain why it is taking slightly longer, but I'll throw it out there.
FWIW, the engine has 11K miles on it with a new pickup/screen/bearings/etc.
I can't see any way the canton racing filter setup would have any sort of anti-drain valve, but then again I am no expert on oil filter construction.
I would like to use the stock oil filter (these filters cost ~$20 each!!!!) but the PO used the canton racing filter housing as a source for the turbo oil feed, which I continued to use...
I'll check out that thread Jon, thanks.
FWIW, the engine has 11K miles on it with a new pickup/screen/bearings/etc.
I can't see any way the canton racing filter setup would have any sort of anti-drain valve, but then again I am no expert on oil filter construction.
I would like to use the stock oil filter (these filters cost ~$20 each!!!!) but the PO used the canton racing filter housing as a source for the turbo oil feed, which I continued to use...
I'll check out that thread Jon, thanks.
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#10
Race Director
Thread Starter
Spencer, thanks but no need for it!
#12
Rennlist Member
If you mail order the Mahle filter (from Paragon/Pelican/etc.) I think it's $7 or $8.
But, I agree - if there's no check valve (or not a working one) in your Canton setup, that's the reason you're seeing the delay.
You could always install an accusump!
But, I agree - if there's no check valve (or not a working one) in your Canton setup, that's the reason you're seeing the delay.
You could always install an accusump!
#13
The PO did that modification and the oil feed on the turbo (60-1 hifi) was designed for that fitting. I talked to canton racing and they said it is no problem and "better" than the factory setup. I didn't see the point in spending money to replace something that works just fine (possibly better) + Canton Racing is a reputable company...
Spencer, thanks but no need for it!
Spencer, thanks but no need for it!
Here's pics with and without the intake/turbo on to see how my oil feed line is connected:
#14
Mahle or Mann filters have the valve and are the only ones you want to get. Even the Bosch filter doesnt have the check valve.
#15
Race Director
Thread Starter
Bump for video - This also shows the start of a new problem- It has never ran on 3 cylinders on start up. It clears up after about 10 seconds. I pulled the plugs and took a few pics. All the plugs look fine, except for cylinder #1, which looks like it was burned?? I know this screams HEADGASKET but not loosing coolant and the plugs are not steam cleaned (knock on wood) - any thoughts? The car also didn't start as quick..
The plugs are NGK BPR6ES and I'll be picking up a set of 7ES today.
Pics of spark plugs, sorry for the crap picture...the camera died and I'm outta batteries!
OK, those pics are terrible. They don't show plugs well at all. Plugs 2,3,4 look fairly normal, even color, etc. Plug 1 has some burned deposits and is a bit darker then the rest. The "burn" is obvious in the pics. Any ideas what caused that? I'm about to do a compression test...
EDIT: Just did compression test. ~130-135 on every cylinder.
The plugs are NGK BPR6ES and I'll be picking up a set of 7ES today.
Pics of spark plugs, sorry for the crap picture...the camera died and I'm outta batteries!
OK, those pics are terrible. They don't show plugs well at all. Plugs 2,3,4 look fairly normal, even color, etc. Plug 1 has some burned deposits and is a bit darker then the rest. The "burn" is obvious in the pics. Any ideas what caused that? I'm about to do a compression test...
EDIT: Just did compression test. ~130-135 on every cylinder.
Last edited by MM951; 07-06-2009 at 01:30 PM.