My Autocross Parts List - Whats Good/Bad?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
My Autocross Parts List - Whats Good/Bad?
Here is the list of parts I want to eventually install into my 1983 NA that I want to autocross. Please tell me if there are better parts than what I have chosen, if they do/dont fit on my car and what is a waste of money. I know seat time is the best thing you can do but my car needs a bit of help too. Any other tips will be greatly appreciated. Thanks to all who reply.
- 924S/944/944S2/944S Spec Stage 4 Clutch
- Spec Aluminum Flywheel
- 3" LR Exhaust/High Flow Cat/Outlaw Premuffler/Muffler Bypass
- Short Shifter Kit
- Short Shifter Lever
- Quaife Torque Biasing Diff
- 968 MO30 Sway Bar Kit
- Weltmeister 220 Ibs Springs
- Koni Performance Shocks F/R
- 29mm Solid Rear Torsion Bars
- Racing Dynamics Strut Brace
- Zimmermann Front Drilled Brake Rotors
- WOESSNER PISTONS MAKE A DIFFERENCE?
- THE BEST TIRE FOR AUTOCROSS? USING GENERAL TIRES RIGHT NOW
How many pucks ( I think thats what their called ) are on a clutch of an 83?
- 924S/944/944S2/944S Spec Stage 4 Clutch
- Spec Aluminum Flywheel
- 3" LR Exhaust/High Flow Cat/Outlaw Premuffler/Muffler Bypass
- Short Shifter Kit
- Short Shifter Lever
- Quaife Torque Biasing Diff
- 968 MO30 Sway Bar Kit
- Weltmeister 220 Ibs Springs
- Koni Performance Shocks F/R
- 29mm Solid Rear Torsion Bars
- Racing Dynamics Strut Brace
- Zimmermann Front Drilled Brake Rotors
- WOESSNER PISTONS MAKE A DIFFERENCE?
- THE BEST TIRE FOR AUTOCROSS? USING GENERAL TIRES RIGHT NOW
How many pucks ( I think thats what their called ) are on a clutch of an 83?
Last edited by LP944; 06-07-2009 at 10:01 PM. Reason: forgot information
#3
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Aug 2007
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Really just put some sport shocks, decent sways, and good tires. Unless you want to be a super competitive you could do all that listed above. But keep in mind that depending on the mods you will be put in different classes, and some of those mods could put you into a class in which you would get spanked.
#4
Burning Brakes
yeaa, what banana said. too many mods will put you in different classes. oem vs a/f size wheels and tires can even effect what class you can run, and the type of tire if its R-compound or not.
http://www.scca.com/documents/Solo%2...lo_Rules_2.pdf
that has the list of classes and mods that you can run with and on your car.
im extra 2 cents, keep the car stock and do several more autocross events. get use to the car, and practice with it and get familiar with it. then you add adjustments and such to the car in stock form so you know what to modify or leave alone.
and do an autocross driving school, and learn how to drive the car. the car is only as fast as you will be, so that is a good start.
http://www.scca.com/documents/Solo%2...lo_Rules_2.pdf
that has the list of classes and mods that you can run with and on your car.
im extra 2 cents, keep the car stock and do several more autocross events. get use to the car, and practice with it and get familiar with it. then you add adjustments and such to the car in stock form so you know what to modify or leave alone.
and do an autocross driving school, and learn how to drive the car. the car is only as fast as you will be, so that is a good start.
#5
Three Wheelin'
I know this isn't what you want to hear.
But what you should be doing is getting your car well sorted as it sits right now, and getting massive amounts of seat time.
When you've done that, and can say "I'm having problem x when I do y. Do you think stffer z will help?" you should start thinking about these kinds of things.
Parts don't make you fast. Practice makes you fast.
And, as someone already mentioned, most of those will put you in a class where you WILL get spanked, as you will be in the wrong car to compete.
#6
Herr Unmöglich
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
These guys have it right. First make sure you have everything in top running order. For AX you def will want to focus first on suspension and tires. But as others said, before anything else pick the class you want to run (and how much you want to spend!), and then build to those rules.
Chances are you don't 'need' most of that stuff, and a good chunk of it will bump you up several classes to the point where you have no chance being competitive against newer cars.
Chances are you don't 'need' most of that stuff, and a good chunk of it will bump you up several classes to the point where you have no chance being competitive against newer cars.
#7
Rennlist Member
- 924S/944/944S2/944S Spec Stage 4 Clutch -how about a stock spring center?
- Spec Aluminum Flywheel
- 3" LR Exhaust/High Flow Cat/Outlaw Premuffler/Muffler Bypass-too big-need the back pressure stay stock w/ muffler upgrade.
- Short Shifter Kit
- Short Shifter Lever - i would do the rear short shifter or the lever- not both..
- Quaife Torque Biasing Diff
- 968 MO30 Sway Bar Kit
- Weltmeister 220 Ibs Springs-if you are doing these springs you can leave the torsions alone..
- Koni Performance Shocks F/R
- 29mm Solid Rear Torsion Bars-if you are doing these you need like 350lb front springs- too much for autox.
- Racing Dynamics Strut Brace
- Zimmermann Front Drilled Brake Rotors
- WOESSNER PISTONS MAKE A DIFFERENCE? - ??you building a cuztom motor now? Leave it - do a throttle cam.
- THE BEST TIRE FOR AUTOCROSS? USING GENERAL TIRES RIGHT NOW - do a season on streets- then maybe upgrade to kuhmo 710's or victoracers.
How many pucks ( I think thats what their called ) are on a clutch of an 83? 1-its a circle- only very grabby heavy race clutches have pucks- stay stock-ish or you will hate to drive it-you arent pushing enough power in an n/a IMHO to run one of these, makes your tranny hate you anyway.
- Spec Aluminum Flywheel
- 3" LR Exhaust/High Flow Cat/Outlaw Premuffler/Muffler Bypass-too big-need the back pressure stay stock w/ muffler upgrade.
- Short Shifter Kit
- Short Shifter Lever - i would do the rear short shifter or the lever- not both..
- Quaife Torque Biasing Diff
- 968 MO30 Sway Bar Kit
- Weltmeister 220 Ibs Springs-if you are doing these springs you can leave the torsions alone..
- Koni Performance Shocks F/R
- 29mm Solid Rear Torsion Bars-if you are doing these you need like 350lb front springs- too much for autox.
- Racing Dynamics Strut Brace
- Zimmermann Front Drilled Brake Rotors
- WOESSNER PISTONS MAKE A DIFFERENCE? - ??you building a cuztom motor now? Leave it - do a throttle cam.
- THE BEST TIRE FOR AUTOCROSS? USING GENERAL TIRES RIGHT NOW - do a season on streets- then maybe upgrade to kuhmo 710's or victoracers.
How many pucks ( I think thats what their called ) are on a clutch of an 83? 1-its a circle- only very grabby heavy race clutches have pucks- stay stock-ish or you will hate to drive it-you arent pushing enough power in an n/a IMHO to run one of these, makes your tranny hate you anyway.
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#8
Racer
Thread Starter
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
- 924S/944/944S2/944S Spec Stage 4 Clutch -how about a stock spring center?
- Spec Aluminum Flywheel
- 3" LR Exhaust/High Flow Cat/Outlaw Premuffler/Muffler Bypass-too big-need the back pressure stay stock w/ muffler upgrade.
- Short Shifter Kit
- Short Shifter Lever - i would do the rear short shifter or the lever- not both..
- Quaife Torque Biasing Diff
- 968 MO30 Sway Bar Kit
- Weltmeister 220 Ibs Springs-if you are doing these springs you can leave the torsions alone..
- Koni Performance Shocks F/R
- 29mm Solid Rear Torsion Bars-if you are doing these you need like 350lb front springs- too much for autox.
- Racing Dynamics Strut Brace
- Zimmermann Front Drilled Brake Rotors
- WOESSNER PISTONS MAKE A DIFFERENCE? - ??you building a cuztom motor now? Leave it - do a throttle cam.
- THE BEST TIRE FOR AUTOCROSS? USING GENERAL TIRES RIGHT NOW - do a season on streets- then maybe upgrade to kuhmo 710's or victoracers.
How many pucks ( I think thats what their called ) are on a clutch of an 83? 1-its a circle- only very grabby heavy race clutches have pucks- stay stock-ish or you will hate to drive it-you arent pushing enough power in an n/a IMHO to run one of these, makes your tranny hate you anyway.
- Spec Aluminum Flywheel
- 3" LR Exhaust/High Flow Cat/Outlaw Premuffler/Muffler Bypass-too big-need the back pressure stay stock w/ muffler upgrade.
- Short Shifter Kit
- Short Shifter Lever - i would do the rear short shifter or the lever- not both..
- Quaife Torque Biasing Diff
- 968 MO30 Sway Bar Kit
- Weltmeister 220 Ibs Springs-if you are doing these springs you can leave the torsions alone..
- Koni Performance Shocks F/R
- 29mm Solid Rear Torsion Bars-if you are doing these you need like 350lb front springs- too much for autox.
- Racing Dynamics Strut Brace
- Zimmermann Front Drilled Brake Rotors
- WOESSNER PISTONS MAKE A DIFFERENCE? - ??you building a cuztom motor now? Leave it - do a throttle cam.
- THE BEST TIRE FOR AUTOCROSS? USING GENERAL TIRES RIGHT NOW - do a season on streets- then maybe upgrade to kuhmo 710's or victoracers.
How many pucks ( I think thats what their called ) are on a clutch of an 83? 1-its a circle- only very grabby heavy race clutches have pucks- stay stock-ish or you will hate to drive it-you arent pushing enough power in an n/a IMHO to run one of these, makes your tranny hate you anyway.
Well, my stock exhaust is getting a bit on the rusty side, especially my headers. What brand exhaust do you recommend? (Bursch, Danske, etc.) So really al i need is to get the springs, shocks, and I already have a rear short shifter ready to be installed. What about the flywheel though?
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
These guys have it right. First make sure you have everything in top running order. For AX you def will want to focus first on suspension and tires. But as others said, before anything else pick the class you want to run (and how much you want to spend!), and then build to those rules.
Chances are you don't 'need' most of that stuff, and a good chunk of it will bump you up several classes to the point where you have no chance being competitive against newer cars.
Chances are you don't 'need' most of that stuff, and a good chunk of it will bump you up several classes to the point where you have no chance being competitive against newer cars.
Well, I posted another topic about class specific mods because rule books are never clear to me. But I see what your saying, it wouldnt be pretty if I was running with super modified S2000s and 911s.
#11
yeaa, what banana said. too many mods will put you in different classes. oem vs a/f size wheels and tires can even effect what class you can run, and the type of tire if its R-compound or not.
http://www.scca.com/documents/Solo%2...lo_Rules_2.pdf
that has the list of classes and mods that you can run with and on your car.
im extra 2 cents, keep the car stock and do several more autocross events. get use to the car, and practice with it and get familiar with it. then you add adjustments and such to the car in stock form so you know what to modify or leave alone.
and do an autocross driving school, and learn how to drive the car. the car is only as fast as you will be, so that is a good start.
http://www.scca.com/documents/Solo%2...lo_Rules_2.pdf
that has the list of classes and mods that you can run with and on your car.
im extra 2 cents, keep the car stock and do several more autocross events. get use to the car, and practice with it and get familiar with it. then you add adjustments and such to the car in stock form so you know what to modify or leave alone.
and do an autocross driving school, and learn how to drive the car. the car is only as fast as you will be, so that is a good start.
+1 on this!
Keep it stock, good tires, shocks, maybe springs depending on what class allows, and great brakes (stock are plenty).
#12
Instructor
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Middle Tennessee
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After you've done your novice season stock, get a performance chip, 3 bar fuel pressure regulator and throttle cam. Those by items together will be a noticeable change in performance but will put you in Street Prepared. Be warned though... Miata's in that class (CSP) are very hard to beat.
#13
Drifting
As everyone else has said, first work on getting as much seat time as you can, as that's where you'll make the biggest gains at first. Next, decide what class you want to run your car in, and third make the mods to be competitive in that class. The less you do now, the more options you'll have later (when you really will know what you want).
If you're doing SCCA stuff, I think your best bet to be competitive in a 944 n/a is STX (Street Tire Extreme). However, the 944 is not legal in STX yet (rule change is currently pending review, possibly allowed for next year). To make it competitive in STX, you would want one of the top ST tires (Bridgestone RE11's, Kuhmo XS's, etc.), 350/375# front springs, 29-30mm rear bars, koni yellow's front & rear, adjustable front & rear sways and a Quaife LSD (if it's legal, I'd have to check the rules again).
If the STX rule is not passed, your next best bet is ES (E-Stock). This would basically mean putting Koni yellow's in and running Hoosier A6's on stock tires. Keep everything else stock (but in good repair).
The other popular choice (my choice) is to go to CSP. While my car is very competitive at the local level (and prepped nearly to the extent of the rules), I've yet to beat a Miata on 275 Hoosier's at the national level. The only mods I'm allowed, yet haven't done, are 275 Hoosier's (I'm running 225's right now) and an LSD rear diff. I feel I could take off ~1 second (on a 60-sec run) with these mods, but right now I'm about 3-4 off top national guys.
If you're doing SCCA stuff, I think your best bet to be competitive in a 944 n/a is STX (Street Tire Extreme). However, the 944 is not legal in STX yet (rule change is currently pending review, possibly allowed for next year). To make it competitive in STX, you would want one of the top ST tires (Bridgestone RE11's, Kuhmo XS's, etc.), 350/375# front springs, 29-30mm rear bars, koni yellow's front & rear, adjustable front & rear sways and a Quaife LSD (if it's legal, I'd have to check the rules again).
If the STX rule is not passed, your next best bet is ES (E-Stock). This would basically mean putting Koni yellow's in and running Hoosier A6's on stock tires. Keep everything else stock (but in good repair).
The other popular choice (my choice) is to go to CSP. While my car is very competitive at the local level (and prepped nearly to the extent of the rules), I've yet to beat a Miata on 275 Hoosier's at the national level. The only mods I'm allowed, yet haven't done, are 275 Hoosier's (I'm running 225's right now) and an LSD rear diff. I feel I could take off ~1 second (on a 60-sec run) with these mods, but right now I'm about 3-4 off top national guys.
#14
Drifting
Also of note - it's essentially impossible to have a 'street daily driver' and a competitive CSP car all in one. By the time you have it well prepped for CSP, it will be unpleasant on the street. Which leaves you either always frustrated by being uncompetitive, or always unhappy on the street (or both).
An ES car can be very streetable, and an STX car would be 'debatable'.
An ES car can be very streetable, and an STX car would be 'debatable'.
#15
Drifting
my car is also a 1983 and so I am in the same boat as you
the few things I would do: check your bushings and shocks, make sure they are good; get a good set of brake pads ONLY if yours need replacement - and might want to get a good brake fluid (ATE Super Blue); get a good set of high perfomance summer tires - good choices are: Bridgestone RE11, Kumho XS, Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec
I'm going with Star Spec's all around in 225/50/16's and going to try and get as much seat time as I can with my car - and for a novice, really, there is nothing else you should do except good tires for atleast your 1st full season
my car right now is also gutted, I have a Redline Rollbar going in and a set of racing seats - I don't k now how much that will impact what class I am going to be in, but it doesn't really matter because all I want to do is to get as much seat time as I can and learn car control on small tight courses for a few seasons, learn how to controll it, then take Evo school or maybe even Skip Barber and do a few DE's, and then get a Race license etc etc etc, I will probably get into 944 Spec/NASA thing
but for now, you should make sure that your brakes/shocks/bushings are good - and just get a good set of tires, that will be all that you will need as a novice; after you get a feel for it and know what happens when you enter the turn and get out of a turn (maybe you will even spin? who knows, it's ok) - you will get a better idea of what you need to fix/upgrade
the few things I would do: check your bushings and shocks, make sure they are good; get a good set of brake pads ONLY if yours need replacement - and might want to get a good brake fluid (ATE Super Blue); get a good set of high perfomance summer tires - good choices are: Bridgestone RE11, Kumho XS, Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec
I'm going with Star Spec's all around in 225/50/16's and going to try and get as much seat time as I can with my car - and for a novice, really, there is nothing else you should do except good tires for atleast your 1st full season
my car right now is also gutted, I have a Redline Rollbar going in and a set of racing seats - I don't k now how much that will impact what class I am going to be in, but it doesn't really matter because all I want to do is to get as much seat time as I can and learn car control on small tight courses for a few seasons, learn how to controll it, then take Evo school or maybe even Skip Barber and do a few DE's, and then get a Race license etc etc etc, I will probably get into 944 Spec/NASA thing
but for now, you should make sure that your brakes/shocks/bushings are good - and just get a good set of tires, that will be all that you will need as a novice; after you get a feel for it and know what happens when you enter the turn and get out of a turn (maybe you will even spin? who knows, it's ok) - you will get a better idea of what you need to fix/upgrade