roman944

and looks like Scott just covered a lot of stuff too, very nice

M758

- 924S/944/944S2/944S Spec Stage 4 Clutch - Stock is fine- Spring centered Save your money
- Spec Aluminum Flywheel - Stock is fine save your money
- 3" LR Exhaust/High Flow Cat/Outlaw Premuffler/Muffler Bypass - ok, but not much bang for the buck in autocross.
- Short Shifter Kit
- Short Shifter Lever - You don't shift in autocross - keep it stock.
- Quaife Torque Biasing Diff - This is actually pretty good, but very expensive. TB is probably better for autocross, but a clutch pack type one is better for racing due to effect on decel. However given the cost don't do it now. Wait. Figure 2k for one of these installed. There alot of other things you can do make the car faster for 2k
- 968 MO30 Sway Bar Kit - Nice, but fully adjustable weltmeister bars are better since you can use them to tune the balance ot the car since they have slider front and rear
Weltmeister 220 Ibs Springs - Nice, but 250's are better.
- Koni Performance Shocks F/R - good
- 29mm Solid Rear Torsion Bars - Too much bar for 220lbs springs
- Racing Dynamics Strut Brace fine, but KLA does the same thing for less
- Zimmermann Front Drilled Brake Rotors - Pointless. Get the Cheap $32 rotors from paragon. They work fine on my race car. I used to run drilled ones and they were no better even on the track.
- WOESSNER PISTONS MAKE A DIFFERENCE? - ?? I have no dea what you are talkinga about.
THE BEST TIRE FOR AUTOCROSS? USING GENERAL TIRES RIGHT NOW - Hoosier A6 or V710?
How many pucks ( I think thats what their called ) are on a clutch of an 83 Disk is a solid ring no pucks


Like others have said in autocross especially parts do not make the car faster. The driver does. I took an stock 83 944 that I bought for parts. All I did to it was put on the optional stock sway bars. Afresh set of 225/50 R15 Yoko ES100 street tires and cheap KYB shocks and ran the car in my local PCA autocross. The car ran at top top 2-3 of times on street tires of all the Porsches there. It was all driver to slide beast around ever turn trying to get the most from the car. Fun too.

As for making the car faster.

Springs, sways, shocks and tires are key. In fact tires are biggest key as in autocross you had to be on r-tires to run fast times. That is why some classes are street tire classes only.

Years ago I took and 84 944 and stripped the interor. Then put some 225/50 R15 races tires on it and jumped up right to the top 5 fast times of the day. This was on stock springs, stock shocks and stock sways.

roman944

Joe, or Scott, or someone else with aftermarket sways (like Welts):

how exactly do you adjust them? how are they compared to 968 30mm front and 19mm rear (or Lindsey Racing 19mm rear bar?) And those Tarret adjustable sways?

how exactly do you adjust them? Not even sure how they look

would that move someone out of class just because these are aftermarket upgrades and not "stock options" or however SCCA words this?

I think for Woessner (I misspelled the name too), he meant the engine pistons ...

krystar

upgrading rear sway will definitely move u out of stock. even if it's updating to a later oem part. i think you MIGHT be allowed to put in the optional factory sway bar of your matching year, if yer car didn't come with that option.

M758

The 968 bar are not stock either and were never an option on the NA. So they are "aftermarket" just like the welts.

The welts us a slider attachment. Slide to make the end longer and the bar gets stiffer. Slided torward the end and the vbar gets softer. I measure mine down to the milimeter and I can feel a 2 mm change in the front slider. I meausre from the end of the bar to the end of slider clamp. 50 mm is stiffer than 30 mm.

The tarrets are nice bars in that they are ligther than than the welts, but work the same basic way.

vt951

I think you've got it backwards... if you want the bar to "feel" stiffer at the wheel, you need to shorten the ends (less leverage means more force to get the same amount of torque/rotation).

krystar

awesome brake ducts

roman944

so with regard to 968 bars, will be out of stock class regardless

my car has a rear sway bar on it allready (dont know how big, but I assume stock size - its small)

but I was thinking of going with Weltmeister bars when time comes, isntead of 968 30mm F and 19mm R

for now though, I'm getting the car back on the road, new good tires, get the seats, and have as much fun as I can untill something breaks

and +1 on those brake ducts, wow so cool! I may have to do that!

Scootin159

No, he's got it right. He's just explaining it a little differently. A longer "tail" (read the part of the bar past the clamp) would mean a shorter "arm" (i.e. the part of the bar being "used"), which would then mean a "stiffer bar".

Roman, I physically adjust my bars ("Tarret" front bar, weltmeister rear) the same way as Joe. As far as what setting I use, I'm still not sure what's the "right" setting. Being that I have an open rear diff, I find I have to stay pretty soft at the rear to avoid inside wheel lift. I then end up doing most of my "balancing" at the front, with just fine tuning at the rear.

roman944

have you guys seen Elephant Racing no whas a bump steer kit? they might have had it for a while, but I just saw it maybe 2 weeks ago: http://www.elephantracing.com/suspen...4bumpsteer.htm

thx for that info, I always wondered what they looked like and how they got adjusted; I think Paragon and Pelican both have these bars in 28mm F and 22mm R (the welts)

what are the sizes on Tarrot bars?

are these still legal in PCA/Nasa etc?

M758

I was talking about the "free length" of the bar past the slider. I use that as my measument point. So a longer dimension puts the end close to the bar and makes the lever arm shorter. So you are correct in that a longer lever arm = softer, but it is easlier to see and measure the free length.

Yes there is no "perfect setting" for these bars. It all depends on the rest of the setting on the car as to where your bars need to be set. That is what I love about the welt bars. Easy to change at the track so I can do it between run sessions. Then go out and see what they do. I have picked up a bit of time this year from playing around with these bars and have found my two main tracks seem to require different bar setttings for the best result. The 968 bars are nice bars, but since you can only adjust the rear in 1 of 3 positions and can't touch the front you really limit the ability to quicky tune the chassis for the track. The more time I spend racing and looking for that last few tenths the more I am learning about tweaking the chassis.

vt951

Gotcha... sorry, misunderstood what you meant.