Trouble getting oil pressure on new motor
#1
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Trouble getting oil pressure on new motor
Built a new motor this winter and I'm trying to get it primed and started today. It is a normal NA motor with a turbo oil filter mount and an external Mocal oil cooler. Currently the plugs and DME relay are out to build fluid pressure. Car turns over OK but I can't seem to get any movement on the oil pressure gauge.
I dumped a bunch of oil into the filter housing, both the middle tube and the lines. But there is no way I can prime the entire oil cooler. Tried a bit of pressure on the dipstick tube. I am pretty damn sure the crank bolt is tight enough and the washer is pointed correctly. Will the oil pump be able to generate sufficient pressure to prime that whole system or will it start to pull air from the cooler and just never prime? The cooler uses gravity with the supply at the top but it will require pressure to prime.
A variable - This car originally had power steering but that was deleted... when I put the crank pulley set together I omitted the power steering pulley. As the washer has that ridge in the back the crank bolt seems to still tighten fine. But this would not effect things would it?
Final question, just double checking my work. The oil cooler supply line is the one in the back, and the return line is the one coming back in right under the filter, correct???
Thanks... hoping to get this thing running so I can race it this coming weekend!
I dumped a bunch of oil into the filter housing, both the middle tube and the lines. But there is no way I can prime the entire oil cooler. Tried a bit of pressure on the dipstick tube. I am pretty damn sure the crank bolt is tight enough and the washer is pointed correctly. Will the oil pump be able to generate sufficient pressure to prime that whole system or will it start to pull air from the cooler and just never prime? The cooler uses gravity with the supply at the top but it will require pressure to prime.
A variable - This car originally had power steering but that was deleted... when I put the crank pulley set together I omitted the power steering pulley. As the washer has that ridge in the back the crank bolt seems to still tighten fine. But this would not effect things would it?
Final question, just double checking my work. The oil cooler supply line is the one in the back, and the return line is the one coming back in right under the filter, correct???
Thanks... hoping to get this thing running so I can race it this coming weekend!
#4
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I have cranked with no plugs now quite a bit with no movement of the gauge needle. I dumped more oil down the 'top' hole of the filter housing and hand cranked it CCW, and saw the pump suck the oil in. I also pulled the AOS breather hose, plugged the top of the AOS, and pressurized the system with 30psi of air through the dipstick tube while cranking. Still no movement of the pressure gauge. Gauge is active with a zero pressure light as is normal when in accessory position. Oil filter is totally dry.
I have 7.25 qts in the motor right now... that is more than it took in the past without the external cooler.
Dan, can you confirm the line routing? I want to make sure the supply and return lines are correct. This is actually a filter housing I bought from you a couple years back
I have 7.25 qts in the motor right now... that is more than it took in the past without the external cooler.
Dan, can you confirm the line routing? I want to make sure the supply and return lines are correct. This is actually a filter housing I bought from you a couple years back
#5
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Is it the same OPRV that was on the motor with the standard cooler housing or the 3-piece I sent? I assume you used the alignment tool for an early block? Could be the piston is sticking since they are much more sensitive to any debris in the sleeve. That's what happens with the 3-piece type; ask me how I know, zero oil pressure at start-up.
#6
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Steve,
It is a 3 piece out of my 86 turbo. It looked just a touch better than the one you sent me. But I put it in with no alignment tool
It is a 3 piece out of my 86 turbo. It looked just a touch better than the one you sent me. But I put it in with no alignment tool
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#8
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Fark. I'm sure I read people who did it without. What is even there to align? The face of the valve is flat and should mate the same no matter what. Does the tool only align the housing to the block?
I agree I was being stubborn and I will order the alignment tool from pelican tomorrow, but it is possible to do it without, is it not? Back against wall and all...
I agree I was being stubborn and I will order the alignment tool from pelican tomorrow, but it is possible to do it without, is it not? Back against wall and all...
Last edited by schwank; 05-31-2009 at 10:27 PM.
#9
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If you had a one piece you can get away with out alignment tool. With the old style you NEED the tool to make sure the slider does not bind in the housing.
#11
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Make sure you oil pressure gauge isn't bad, lol. Built a motor over the winter for a car that had not been running. Couldn't get it to build pressure....till we swapped out the oil pressure gauge and found the gauge was bad and the motor did have pressure, lol.
#12
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Thanks guys... the gauge is known good and did not come out of the car all winter. It has been less than 6 months since going into the garage. It moves a tiny bit with the key but not with the starter, and certainly not bouncing to 1 like it should.
I ordered the tool today and will also triple check the crank bolt tonight. Pesky thing.
I ordered the tool today and will also triple check the crank bolt tonight. Pesky thing.
#13
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Alrighty, time to bump this one. After a generous deed by a rennlister I have an early oprv alignment tool on loan until mine arrives. Too bad the thing does not seem to do much!
Tonight I did another heave-ho on the crank, and I pulled the oprv. The tool slid right in. I loosened the housing bolts but there is no way to actually move the housing around anyway. The sleeve between the block and the cooler housing holds the thing pretty stationary. So either I am missing something stupid or the tool is useless. The valve slide does not seem to bind much in the sleeve and I have it nice and lubed. I have a turbo motor with the cooler off and I checked it out and I don't see how with the sleeve installed that the tool actually aligns anything.
On the crank bolt I have used an 18v LiIon 240ft lb impact gun, and also pulled 2 handed with my full braced 160lb body weight on a 18" breaker bar. It is tight... my torque wrench maxes out at 150 and it clicked so I have to assume it is good.
I checked and I am getting no oil at the oil cooler supply line in the rear of the filter housing, much less at the filter or pressure sensor. The sensor IS wired correctly. The thing has like 7 quarts of oil in it. I checked the engine numbers and the new 86 block is a 43G 11049, which according to clarks is definitely early. My old 87 motor was 45H 05462 and had a late 1 piece valve installed.
So what gives?! I have a hard time believing that the oil pickup ring is bad and obviously I have to try everything 25 times before I pull the motor apart to check that. There are zero leaks even when I apply 30psi to the dipstick. I've also done the CCW crank rotation with a feeder line in the top filter housing hole to prime the pump (I rebuilt but did not pack the pump with any grease, just light assembly lube)... so why can't I get a prime?
Tonight I did another heave-ho on the crank, and I pulled the oprv. The tool slid right in. I loosened the housing bolts but there is no way to actually move the housing around anyway. The sleeve between the block and the cooler housing holds the thing pretty stationary. So either I am missing something stupid or the tool is useless. The valve slide does not seem to bind much in the sleeve and I have it nice and lubed. I have a turbo motor with the cooler off and I checked it out and I don't see how with the sleeve installed that the tool actually aligns anything.
On the crank bolt I have used an 18v LiIon 240ft lb impact gun, and also pulled 2 handed with my full braced 160lb body weight on a 18" breaker bar. It is tight... my torque wrench maxes out at 150 and it clicked so I have to assume it is good.
I checked and I am getting no oil at the oil cooler supply line in the rear of the filter housing, much less at the filter or pressure sensor. The sensor IS wired correctly. The thing has like 7 quarts of oil in it. I checked the engine numbers and the new 86 block is a 43G 11049, which according to clarks is definitely early. My old 87 motor was 45H 05462 and had a late 1 piece valve installed.
So what gives?! I have a hard time believing that the oil pickup ring is bad and obviously I have to try everything 25 times before I pull the motor apart to check that. There are zero leaks even when I apply 30psi to the dipstick. I've also done the CCW crank rotation with a feeder line in the top filter housing hole to prime the pump (I rebuilt but did not pack the pump with any grease, just light assembly lube)... so why can't I get a prime?