Contemplating Re-A/C-ing my car
#31
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Most prefer a "York" style compressor that has an internal oil system. However, many use or convert their "Sanden" compressors (like the 944) to run air. The long term solution is to use an inline air tool oiler, but you would be surprised at how long those compressors will run without one inline. Some guys have gone years running those compressors without any oil supply.
All that said, if you simply wanted to hook the compressor up to a 12v sorce for 5 seconds to make sure it works, you will be fine.
#32
Rainman
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Don't buy the conversion kit at AutoZone, the Schrader valves that come with those kits are worthless. Go to an A/C shop or NAPA and get a decent set of valve cores. Also ought to make sure the conversion kit adapters clear the hood, it looks like it may be tight on my 84. They sell right-angle adapters for Saab 900's and other cars.
#33
Three Wheelin'
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Same as the schreader valves on your tires/valve stems. The pressure inside the tire pushes the valve out, sealing it so that the air won't leak (it's a one way valve). Get junk on your A/C, you're going to leak your pressurized refrigerant.
On the same line of thought....this is why you vacuum with your manifold gauge on. The valves only hold in one direction, so they can't hold the vacuum. Unless you have something external hooked up to shut off (like the manifold gauges) you can't transition from the vacuum pump to the refrigerant cylinder to fill the system without letting air back in.
On the same line of thought....this is why you vacuum with your manifold gauge on. The valves only hold in one direction, so they can't hold the vacuum. Unless you have something external hooked up to shut off (like the manifold gauges) you can't transition from the vacuum pump to the refrigerant cylinder to fill the system without letting air back in.
Last edited by DarylJ; 05-04-2009 at 10:27 PM. Reason: hrooible misure of contraction where not necessary