New springs didn't lower car????
12-10-2008, 08:42 PM
#17
Race Car
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haha the porsche literature is in N-m: newtons per meter. It's force per length displacement.
It converts to about 125 pounds per inch. Which means really soft.
And yeah you can lower the rear of the car with some of the alignment bolts. They all come from the factory adjustable like that.
It converts to about 125 pounds per inch. Which means really soft.
And yeah you can lower the rear of the car with some of the alignment bolts. They all come from the factory adjustable like that.
12-10-2008, 08:56 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
On a related note since I am in the middle of this too, this is what happened when going from 12" to 8" springs without adjusting the location of the lower perch on the coilovers. Always wondered what it would look like slammed.
Justin, how did you end up getting your struts back in place?
Justin, how did you end up getting your struts back in place?
12-10-2008, 09:29 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Bumper is GT racing. Even though I have another set of wheels, I do think they look good on 944s. I always thought they do a good job of updating the car while still looking period correct. One of the best things about them is they are a pretty cheap way to get into 17s and can be found in 8.5s and 9s.
12-10-2008, 09:54 PM
#22
Three Wheelin'
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it actually took me and a friend a long time to figure it out, actually, my step father came up with the idea.
i pulled the top of the strut upwards, because it was compressed (is that normal, or are they worn out? i thought they stayed out)
and then we quickly jacked up the control arm and grabbed the top of the strut with a pair of needlenose pliers and pulled it through the upper mount enough to get some threads.
i pulled the top of the strut upwards, because it was compressed (is that normal, or are they worn out? i thought they stayed out)
and then we quickly jacked up the control arm and grabbed the top of the strut with a pair of needlenose pliers and pulled it through the upper mount enough to get some threads.
12-10-2008, 10:52 PM
#23
Nordschleife Master
IMO the info you were given about the car having a lower stance with your new springs is wrong. I had this explained to me once and it was enlightening, I shall try and explain.
A shorter and stiffer spring will not always lower the car, in fact it might raise it a bit.
Springs are rated in pounds/per inch, a 125# spring will compress 1" for every 125# load and a 250# spring will compress 1" for every 250# load. Here is an example to make it clear:
Stock 125# 10" spring with a static 500# load will compress 4". So our stock fitted static spring height is 10" - 4" = 6" compressed
If you upgrade this spring to 250# and shorten it to 8" with the same load:
250# 8" spring with a static 500# load will compress 2". So the upgraded spring height is 8" - 2" = 6" compressed
In this example with the car static the upgraded and shortened springs have no effect on ride height even though they are shorter.
In fact as previously stated the car might seem higher as your stock springs were sagging to start with and not holding their true poundage.
Hope this helps
A shorter and stiffer spring will not always lower the car, in fact it might raise it a bit.
Springs are rated in pounds/per inch, a 125# spring will compress 1" for every 125# load and a 250# spring will compress 1" for every 250# load. Here is an example to make it clear:
Stock 125# 10" spring with a static 500# load will compress 4". So our stock fitted static spring height is 10" - 4" = 6" compressed
If you upgrade this spring to 250# and shorten it to 8" with the same load:
250# 8" spring with a static 500# load will compress 2". So the upgraded spring height is 8" - 2" = 6" compressed
In this example with the car static the upgraded and shortened springs have no effect on ride height even though they are shorter.
In fact as previously stated the car might seem higher as your stock springs were sagging to start with and not holding their true poundage.
Hope this helps
12-10-2008, 11:43 PM
#24
Drifting
lol there is nothing wrong with that last pic, looks great as long as you are not driving!
btw, don't they have these springs with "stock height" and then options of lowering by 1" or 1.5" ? just throwing it out there, wrong spring(s)? or how does that work ...
btw, don't they have these springs with "stock height" and then options of lowering by 1" or 1.5" ? just throwing it out there, wrong spring(s)? or how does that work ...
12-11-2008, 12:26 AM
#25
Rennlist Member
did you install just the spring or did you also order the spacer? If you installed a spacer that they sell w/ them sometimes, you just took out your lowering. SHould have just been a spring. I put those on our old 924s and it was obviously lower.
12-11-2008, 01:00 AM
#26
Lowering of the rear is done by adjusting the angle of the connecting plates to the spring load, here's what I'd do
1. clean the surrounding area of bolts
2. mark the original position so you can revert to it
3. modify the angle little a bit (1mm)
4. perform the operation on other side as well
5. lower the car on it's wheels and mark the difference so you'll know how much the car drops per 1mm change
6. make absolutely sure the car is aligned after the operation ; if it tilts on either side it might be interesting to drive.
1. clean the surrounding area of bolts
2. mark the original position so you can revert to it
3. modify the angle little a bit (1mm)
4. perform the operation on other side as well
5. lower the car on it's wheels and mark the difference so you'll know how much the car drops per 1mm change
6. make absolutely sure the car is aligned after the operation ; if it tilts on either side it might be interesting to drive.
12-11-2008, 05:15 AM
#27
Also in my experience with lowering the rear I need to drive the car around the block for the rear to settle at the correct height otherwise the rear will look raised.
I think the front springs have linear rate which as said may not lower the car if they are shorter. They have to be a lot shorter. The solution will be to use progressive springs which start at stock rate but when compressed by the weight of the car become stiffer. The spring cannot be made too short to avoid spring dislocation when used with standard shocks. Shorter shocks can help but they limit suspension travel which sometimes is needed.
I think the front springs have linear rate which as said may not lower the car if they are shorter. They have to be a lot shorter. The solution will be to use progressive springs which start at stock rate but when compressed by the weight of the car become stiffer. The spring cannot be made too short to avoid spring dislocation when used with standard shocks. Shorter shocks can help but they limit suspension travel which sometimes is needed.
12-11-2008, 10:47 AM
#28
Burning Brakes
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12-11-2008, 05:33 PM
#30
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I would double check the part number on the springs you installed as they are available both as lowering and stock height. Both would be shorter than the stock springs unloaded. It has been my experience that the car would be lower as soon as you install the lowering springs and put the car on the ground.