Chads996

I'm sorry, but the prices of all the aftermarket control arms seem to be a complete ripoff. R&D my azz. All that is required is measurements and the proper choice of materials. Even the tubular welded versions are priced ridiculously. The cost of the materials, welding time and powder coating, ball joints, etc...$1700? Please. The average upcharge for a fabricated item is 20-30% above the cost....not double or more. These guys are all raping the 944 community. And have been for years.

Hell, maybe I'll fabricate some tubular chromoly arms.

I challenge a shop to produce a set of tubular Chrome Moly control arms for a reasonable price. I guarantee that if you do, you will not be able to keep them on your shelves. The 944 community has been BEGGING for someone to do this.

Details:

Chrome Moly tube: (INCH) TUBE ROUND 4130N 1 X .049 - $.32 per inch (approx 40" each) - $25.60
Jig setup: $100.
Tig welding time: 2-3 hours at $65/per hr - $195
Heim joints/rod ends: approx $41 (x2) - $82
Misc OE hardware (bolts, etc): $50

Estimate of set Total: $638.60 (cost)
Castor blocks (Lindsey Monoball): $295

Total: $747.60
+ 30% = retail price of $971.88

$1500 to 1900+ for just arms. Please. Give me a break. My estimate is based on the fabrication of tubular chromoly arms and buy out of castor blocks. Billet aluminum is $601 (4" 6061-T651 Aluminum Plate). The machine time needed for CNC I would expect to be close to 8 hours or more. My preference is the chromoly. It is stronger than cast aluminum and would be close to being lighter than the machined billet aluminum piece.

I find the prices offered by most of the vendors to be ridiculous. If I can be proven wrong, I welcome it. But please provide a full cost estimate. Not retail.

C.

EDIT- Price adjusted. New part prices found.

Material Info source:

http://secure.chassisshop.com/partlist/5408/
http://secure.chassisshop.com/partlist/5320/

bgiere

If you decide to go forward let me know! I'd try a pair.

Hawk36

Even a nice set for street use at a good price would be great.

Chads996

If built properly, there is no reason why a set of tubular control arms could not be used on the street. We simply need to make sure the mounting points accommodate OE rubber or existing aftermarket delrin bushings. And all that means matching the existing measurements on the OE control arms.

C.

V2Rocket

$1200 a pair is still more than i paid for my whole car...

Chads996

Are you racing? If not - hush.


FWIW - I just found higher strength, cheaper chrome moly rod ends. Price adjusted.


C.

Darwantae951

He asks $1250. You can get the mild steel arms for $1050.

V2Rocket

why not just box weld some $25 steel arms? lol.

Chads996

Does this price include the castor monobloc bushing? Also, Chrome Moly is preferred due to its strength characteristics.

SFR reference. Why the bend in the tube? Seems odd.

http://www.speedforceracing.com/prod...suspension.php



C.

Darwantae951

$1250 is for the Chrome Moly. You don't know SFRs website?

www.speedforceracing.com

Edit: I cannot speak for Tim on the design of his arms. He will have to answer that. I hope some manufacturers will chime in here. There has been threads on this before and theres more to making control arms than most think.

Chads996

Not really. Of course there are forces involved. But it's not rocket science. When creeating control arms the geometry is the key. But that has been developed already. Tubular control arms have been produced in various forms of motorsports for decades. The key for engineering is simplicity. The simpler the method likely the better the result. So far the best version of these I have seen is Lindsey's. But they want stupid money for them.



C.

m73m95

There might be more to designing a control arm..... but a copy is easy.

I think anyone with mild welding/fab skills could make that in their garage. That looks like a good weekend project if someone could either get hold of a spare control arm to copy, or if someone would make plans/blueprints.

m73m95

Hell, those Lindsey arms would be much easier to make than the SFR arms.

I have a small fab shop in my garage. I usually just make benches, grills, pipe bumpers...etc. But that Lindsey arm would be cake..... I don't have a need for them, but like Chad said in the 1st post, I really can't believe someone would charge over a grand for something like that. Seems like they're taking advantage of the racing community.

mj951

I believe the weakness in the stock control arms is the ball joint and pin design. Regardless of lowering a car or not this seems to be the weakest link in the arm.
Another solution, assuming you have a good pair of stock arms, is to look at strengthening the ball joint and pin assembly. The pics below are some idea's I have seen over the years.
By rebuilding the stock ball joint and inserting a spherical bearing you eliminate the issue of binding at the ball joint. One could also have new pins machined to allow for a collar and added surface area at both the ball joint and spindle connection which would strengthen the joint and could be made longer to account for some lowering of the car.

Chads996

Very nice. I'd love to learn the technical details. One question - is the ball joint serviceable?

C.