Aftermarket 944 Control arms. Retail pricing seems a bit off...
11-30-2008, 02:28 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
My brother has been bugging me about building some aftermarket arms similar to what you are talking about. He is an ME who works at a machine shop and laughs at the cost of the arms on the market.
My stock M030 arms are in good shape, I rebuild the ball joints and upgraded the caster blocks to the 968 style when I purchased the car. I used SSI Performance brass bushings and new 17mm pins, stock length to rebuild the ball joints with, a good solution for street and moderate track duty.
The stock ball joints are held together using a washer which sit below the bushings of the ball joint. This washer is held in place using a cerclip which sits in a grove in the cast a-arm. Epoxy is then used to cover/seal the bottom of the joint and ensure the circlip does not come out.
It would be pretty straight forward to spec a spherical bearing for the a-arm socket and modify the washer below it to allow for the threaded connection between the pin and bearing. I would drill out the washer to allow for the bottom, threaded section, of the ball joint pin to stick through and use the same cerclip and epoxy around the perimeter to hold it in place. I would need to draw up/design a new pin and have it machined, but that wouldn't be difficult either. I'm planning a suspension/rear coilover upgrade for over the winter, maybe I will add this to the list.
11-30-2008, 03:08 PM
#18
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
C.
Last edited by Chads996; 11-30-2008 at 03:28 PM.
11-30-2008, 03:11 PM
#19
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Yea, so would I, these are not pictures of my car.
My brother has been bugging me about building some aftermarket arms similar to what you are talking about. He is an ME who works at a machine shop and laughs at the cost of the arms on the market.
My stock M030 arms are in good shape, I rebuild the ball joints and upgraded the caster blocks to the 968 style when I purchased the car. I used SSI Performance brass bushings and new 17mm pins, stock length to rebuild the ball joints with, a good solution for street and moderate track duty.
The stock ball joints are held together using a washer which sit below the bushings of the ball joint. This washer is held in place using a cerclip which sits in a grove in the cast a-arm. Epoxy is then used to cover/seal the bottom of the joint and ensure the circlip does not come out.
It would be pretty straight forward to spec a spherical bearing for the a-arm socket and modify the washer below it to allow for the threaded connection between the pin and bearing. I would drill out the washer to allow for the bottom, threaded section, of the ball joint pin to stick through and use the same cerclip and epoxy around the perimeter to hold it in place. I would need to draw up/design a new pin and have it machined, but that wouldn't be difficult either. I'm planning a suspension/rear coilover upgrade for over the winter, maybe I will add this to the list.
My brother has been bugging me about building some aftermarket arms similar to what you are talking about. He is an ME who works at a machine shop and laughs at the cost of the arms on the market.
My stock M030 arms are in good shape, I rebuild the ball joints and upgraded the caster blocks to the 968 style when I purchased the car. I used SSI Performance brass bushings and new 17mm pins, stock length to rebuild the ball joints with, a good solution for street and moderate track duty.
The stock ball joints are held together using a washer which sit below the bushings of the ball joint. This washer is held in place using a cerclip which sits in a grove in the cast a-arm. Epoxy is then used to cover/seal the bottom of the joint and ensure the circlip does not come out.
It would be pretty straight forward to spec a spherical bearing for the a-arm socket and modify the washer below it to allow for the threaded connection between the pin and bearing. I would drill out the washer to allow for the bottom, threaded section, of the ball joint pin to stick through and use the same cerclip and epoxy around the perimeter to hold it in place. I would need to draw up/design a new pin and have it machined, but that wouldn't be difficult either. I'm planning a suspension/rear coilover upgrade for over the winter, maybe I will add this to the list.
C.
11-30-2008, 03:23 PM
#20
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And you could get the mild steel arms for under $950 shipped, right now. I prefer the mild steel since it gves a little and doesnt crack like chrome-moly can in a big impact.
11-30-2008, 03:27 PM
#21
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
C.
11-30-2008, 04:10 PM
#22
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Tim, do you sell arms for both early & late offset??
Because I have Turbo "S" brakes & susp for my 87 924S, and need the big pins. I have a very nice set of stainless steel boxed, seem welded arms, set up to use ball joints off a circle track car, but the pins are way to small
why not just box weld some $25 steel arms? lol.
11-30-2008, 04:40 PM
#23
Burning Brakes
This is a great thread a way way over due.
I have boxed steel arms on my car today. You don't the caster adjustment on the steel ones you can get on the others. Also, the steel ones use the early small ball joint, a potential weak point. I still like the steel ones over the AL ones though. Ball joints are like $10/ea and replacing them often is a breeze. However, $50 boxed steel arms with $10/ea ball joints versus $950+......
I have boxed steel arms on my car today. You don't the caster adjustment on the steel ones you can get on the others. Also, the steel ones use the early small ball joint, a potential weak point. I still like the steel ones over the AL ones though. Ball joints are like $10/ea and replacing them often is a breeze. However, $50 boxed steel arms with $10/ea ball joints versus $950+......
11-30-2008, 04:40 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
No question, a steel arm will be stronger than the stock aluminum arms. The new ones at SPR look nice but I still feel the ball joint pin is a weak link. A pin with a notch rather than a full grove around the top would offer some added strength, these are available from a couple of sources at $120 each or going with something similar to the pics I posted with a collar offering added surface area.
11-30-2008, 05:11 PM
#25
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
No question, a steel arm will be stronger than the stock aluminum arms. The new ones at SPR look nice but I still feel the ball joint pin is a weak link. A pin with a notch rather than a full grove around the top would offer some added strength, these are available from a couple of sources at $120 each or going with something similar to the pics I posted with a collar offering added surface area.
C.
11-30-2008, 11:44 PM
#27
Nordschleife Master
Dan (Sharky47) posted an interesting thread about fabricating some a while back: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...t=charlie+arms
12-01-2008, 10:40 AM
#30
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter