Steering Wheel Torque Talk
10-22-2008, 02:59 AM
#1
Racer
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Steering Wheel Torque Talk
I just posted this on 924 Board, and thought I'd share it here, too...
How many drivers out there have a steering wheel/shaft that clatters a bit as you drive over bumps and expansion strips etc?
Well, I've been aware of this on both of the 931's I've owned. I presumed that this was 'how it is'.
However, on my current car, my latest project was to replace the PO's aftermarket, smaller steering wheel with a good second hand original three-spoke wheel, partly because of the cheap look of the PO's, and partly because the smaller wheel made it difficult turning in parking lots, etc.
After replacing the steering wheel, I looked up the recommended torque for the nut in Haynes: for the 931 it is, from memory, 33 foot/lbs + or - 7, so I tightened it up to 33.
To my pleasant surprise, when I drove it I noticed far less of the bump clatter: it probably hadn't been torqued properly, but just tightened. So, on the presumption that the '+7' foot/lbs would be applicable for the wear on a quarter century old car, I torqued the steering wheel nut up some more, to about 38.
Hey, the clatter is largely gone... I guess the wear has been taken up. And mine had been so bad that I thought there must be a bush missing or something...
I recommend everyone go out and check the torque of the steering wheel nut, and re-tighten towards the upper limit, and not suffer so much noisy steering over bumps...
Added bonuses from getting rid of the suss wheel are that I've cured my horn of its occasional willful ways, and I can see all the instruments again.
Cheers,
Phill.
How many drivers out there have a steering wheel/shaft that clatters a bit as you drive over bumps and expansion strips etc?
Well, I've been aware of this on both of the 931's I've owned. I presumed that this was 'how it is'.
However, on my current car, my latest project was to replace the PO's aftermarket, smaller steering wheel with a good second hand original three-spoke wheel, partly because of the cheap look of the PO's, and partly because the smaller wheel made it difficult turning in parking lots, etc.
After replacing the steering wheel, I looked up the recommended torque for the nut in Haynes: for the 931 it is, from memory, 33 foot/lbs + or - 7, so I tightened it up to 33.
To my pleasant surprise, when I drove it I noticed far less of the bump clatter: it probably hadn't been torqued properly, but just tightened. So, on the presumption that the '+7' foot/lbs would be applicable for the wear on a quarter century old car, I torqued the steering wheel nut up some more, to about 38.
Hey, the clatter is largely gone... I guess the wear has been taken up. And mine had been so bad that I thought there must be a bush missing or something...
I recommend everyone go out and check the torque of the steering wheel nut, and re-tighten towards the upper limit, and not suffer so much noisy steering over bumps...
Added bonuses from getting rid of the suss wheel are that I've cured my horn of its occasional willful ways, and I can see all the instruments again.
Cheers,
Phill.
10-17-2009, 07:51 PM
#5
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Location: Inside a 951
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Man!
I deff get noises from my steering slowly over bumps/road
I am in the process of removing the gauges/speedometer apart now, and I was thinking to even change the steerling wheel itself. (Any recommendations would be appreciated.)
Would it be best to just change the steerling nut itself? I have a 944, I think its a 24mm or 15/16" nut
I deff get noises from my steering slowly over bumps/road
I am in the process of removing the gauges/speedometer apart now, and I was thinking to even change the steerling wheel itself. (Any recommendations would be appreciated.)
Would it be best to just change the steerling nut itself? I have a 944, I think its a 24mm or 15/16" nut
Last edited by Perculator00; 10-18-2009 at 03:54 AM.
10-17-2009, 07:55 PM
#6
Rainman
Rennlist Member
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i discovered the other day that the actual grooves inside the wheel hub were wearing out so there was some play in the wheel before the shaft even started turning!
luckily i had a spare wheel on hand which had a destroyed rim but a good hub so swapped hubs and now all is well
luckily i had a spare wheel on hand which had a destroyed rim but a good hub so swapped hubs and now all is well
10-21-2009, 12:54 AM
#7
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the wheels should be completely straight when removing the steering wheel correct? just wanna double make sure that the steering wheel should not be turned into the lock position, or turned at all for that sake
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10-21-2009, 02:48 AM
#8
Instructor
If you take it off with the wheels turned at a (random) angle it's very hard to know what position to install the wheel.
10-21-2009, 02:53 AM
#9
Instructor
I just posted this on 924 Board, and thought I'd share it here, too...
How many drivers out there have a steering wheel/shaft that clatters a bit as you drive over bumps and expansion strips etc?
Well, I've been aware of this on both of the 931's I've owned. I presumed that this was 'how it is'.
However, on my current car, my latest project was to replace the PO's aftermarket, smaller steering wheel with a good second hand original three-spoke wheel, partly because of the cheap look of the PO's, and partly because the smaller wheel made it difficult turning in parking lots, etc.
After replacing the steering wheel, I looked up the recommended torque for the nut in Haynes: for the 931 it is, from memory, 33 foot/lbs + or - 7, so I tightened it up to 33.
To my pleasant surprise, when I drove it I noticed far less of the bump clatter: it probably hadn't been torqued properly, but just tightened. So, on the presumption that the '+7' foot/lbs would be applicable for the wear on a quarter century old car, I torqued the steering wheel nut up some more, to about 38.
Hey, the clatter is largely gone... I guess the wear has been taken up. And mine had been so bad that I thought there must be a bush missing or something...
I recommend everyone go out and check the torque of the steering wheel nut, and re-tighten towards the upper limit, and not suffer so much noisy steering over bumps...
Added bonuses from getting rid of the suss wheel are that I've cured my horn of its occasional willful ways, and I can see all the instruments again.
Cheers,
Phill.
How many drivers out there have a steering wheel/shaft that clatters a bit as you drive over bumps and expansion strips etc?
Well, I've been aware of this on both of the 931's I've owned. I presumed that this was 'how it is'.
However, on my current car, my latest project was to replace the PO's aftermarket, smaller steering wheel with a good second hand original three-spoke wheel, partly because of the cheap look of the PO's, and partly because the smaller wheel made it difficult turning in parking lots, etc.
After replacing the steering wheel, I looked up the recommended torque for the nut in Haynes: for the 931 it is, from memory, 33 foot/lbs + or - 7, so I tightened it up to 33.
To my pleasant surprise, when I drove it I noticed far less of the bump clatter: it probably hadn't been torqued properly, but just tightened. So, on the presumption that the '+7' foot/lbs would be applicable for the wear on a quarter century old car, I torqued the steering wheel nut up some more, to about 38.
Hey, the clatter is largely gone... I guess the wear has been taken up. And mine had been so bad that I thought there must be a bush missing or something...
I recommend everyone go out and check the torque of the steering wheel nut, and re-tighten towards the upper limit, and not suffer so much noisy steering over bumps...
Added bonuses from getting rid of the suss wheel are that I've cured my horn of its occasional willful ways, and I can see all the instruments again.
Cheers,
Phill.
I had the clanking over bumps problem but eventually discovered that it was due to the clamp bolt at the bottom end of the steering shaft being loose. Where it goes on to the steering rack. Tightening that bolt made a world of difference.
