what do you mean as far as everything else. I have been told by everyone else that the stock botom end is ok for the 350-400whp that im trying to make. wide fire headgasket and a vitesse stg 3 kit along with all the supporting hardware.

 

Things like a chip, lower restriction exhaust, etc. It's like a plumbing system. If you put a section of 5 inch fire department supply line in the middle of two garden hoses, you're still getting garden hose throughput.

 

im not new to this. the vitesse system comes with the tune. 4" strait pipe. new intercooler(RX7?) im not going too list everything because theres alot.

 

lol i have the list i pretty much just finished rebuilding my motor

 

want to PM it too me?

 

well when first looked at the top of the belt - that part of the belt is intact and looks good

but once we peeked "down there" as in down the hole (opened the cover a little more)

saw bottom piece of belt fall down on to the oil filter, and the rest of it is crammed up on the bottom

I'm just wondering , since the car wasn't being driven or in gear or nothing, and it just shut off, what are the chances of it needing a full rebuild

I mean, I don't mind, and I'd do the same thing as VoodooGTX, even though mine is an N/A

first thing I thoght was: swap it, but I don't think I want to do that, not yet anyways

so what are my options? take the head off and check the bottom of the block? work on that too?

I mean I planed to get the engine refreshed over the winter anyways, but this is kind of, outside of my plans right now, a little unexpected, but not unwelcome

so yeah I want to see some options for this stock N/A block? or look for a turbo engine and do that swap? what do I need then? block, I/C, what about DME and stuff like that?

just looking at my options that's all; would love to go V8, but, no, I'm going to die or get into a lot of trouble if I do that

 

I think the block is fine; the only thing that gets really damaged is the valves.

 

valves will be the only thing that will be bent. your botom end will be in the same condition before you blew the belt.

your going too want to actually pull the cover off and not keep prying on it.

then check if the water pump spins free.

after that you going too pull the intake, fuel rain, wiring harness, spark plug wires, and then remove the 10 nuts that hold the head down.

pull the head off...

bring the head too a shop to have the new valves installed or source another head from a NA being parted out(what engine do you have?)

get the headgasket and a new belt and put it all back together.

done done

 

Just to add, someone correct me if i'm wrong, but IIRC the 2.5 8v NA and 2.5 8v turbo heads are for the most part the same, if you find a turbo head before an NA head, you can use that

 

yeah I don't think it's going to be too hard to do; between me and my dad and my brother (when he gets out of J) we should be able to do this with ease; my dad drove truck for years, and my brother worked at my uncle's shop before and done various work on friends cars (minor stuff), so it shouldn't be too hard

so this would be the way to go then

this is a 1983 N/A, so a 2.5L 4cyl engine

I've been looking for a 944 that needed work around my area, with winter around the corner, I'm sure a few will show up, so maybe I'll ****** one or two

how far is exactly New Platz and Woodstock from me? I'm asking guys on local car-nut-forums about a place that could do the head work for me

 

yeah that was kind of a reason why I was asking about a 951 engine, a 2.5L turbo one; but it's probably going to cost me too much $$$ to do

so for the N/A guys that did the rebuilt, how did you go about it?

I'm getting slightly ahead of time, but if/when I do take the head to the shop, what do I need to tell them as far as working it goes?

 

replace the valves... thats all you have too tell them.

if you want me too roll by and doo some wrenching i might be able too.

who does your parents use for propane

 

wait rochester.... damn you a long way away im down near Pougkeepsie me and Van are around here

 

ahahah ok now I know

would there be any point to have them machine it? probably not ... ?

 

You should find a set of valves and have a machine shop deck your head, and install the new valves with new valve guide seals, or just find a used head and send it to the shop for the same thing (deck, valve guide seals, and whatever else the machine chop sees the it needs). Not sure which will be cheaper - 8v n/a heads aren't that expensive. And yes, you can use a turbo head, but it won't help you with power on your n/a.

N/A to turbo swaps are possible, but generally considered not worth it unless you have a cherry n/a and happen to stumble across a wrecked turbo. You have to swap a lot more than just the motor. Search for "can I turbo my na".

A few posts up you're talking about how the belt was down by the oil filler - I don't know what you're talking about. The AOS is like a foot away on the right hand side of the motor (looking at it from the front). You might want to take some pictures and post them if you're looking for help. Yes, whether you were driving or just idling you bent between 1 and 8 valves, but there's likely a reason your belt broke, and it might be more than just that the belt was old or damaged. You really want to look over the front end of the motor and do the "while you're in there" jobs (like re-sealing the front end if you have any leaks, changing the water pump if you don't know how old it is, replacing all the vacuum lines under the intake manifold while you can easily get at them, cleaning your ISV while you can easily get at it, replace your AOS seals while its easy, etc).