Red!

I just bought an AEM TruBoost gauge/electronic controller combo.

I'm not sure what the best way to install it is. I THINK I have a few options:

1) Replace my Boost Enhancer with the Electronic Boost Controller - I assume it can increase boost, SPr and DC (which I wish I understood more about) and from there since the Boost Enhancer can

2) Remove the cyclic Valve and plumb-in the Electronic Boost Controller in its place

3) ???

I would really appreciate some sage advice (or discussion) about which way to go and why - I assume there are benefits and disadvantages for each option, and I'd like to understand what they are and what the risks are as well.

Techno Duck

You want to remove the boost enhancer and cycling valve completley. The boost controller will not work correctly if either of those are still hooked up.

The downside of running any aftermarket boost controller is you loose some of the factory fail safes, mainly the over boost protection. The upside is you will get much more consistent boost control. Most electronic boost controllers now days do have over boost safety though.

The factory cycling valve is basically the cars stock boost controller and controls the operation of the wastegate. The boost enhancer simply delays the boost signal to the cycling valve so the wastegate stays closed longer.

CurtP

Yes, remove the cyclic valve and boost enhancer. If you're running the stock wastegate, plumb the solenoid according to the internal wastegate instructions. When you remove the cyclic valve, you will need to plug the line that goes to the J-boot - it will no longer be used. You can still use the hard line that goes up to the IC pipe if you put the solenoid in the same spot as the cyclic valve. However, the banjo bolt on the IC pipe needs to be replaced or modified if it's stock. You need a banjo bolt that doesn't have the restrictor in it.

For the gauge boost input, I connected a T-fitting on the nylon tube that goes to the computer on the passenger side floorboard. The PO had already cut that line. Slip a piece of rubber hose over each end of the cut nylon tube to hold the T-fitting in place (the included hose works fine).

As for the TruBoost settings - start with the SPr at 5 and your duty cycle at 70%; that should get you around 10.5 - 11 PSI. If you have your SPr lower than 5, you will feel a surging when under boost (even at 5 its still noticeable). Too high and you'll spike past your target boost pressure. The consensus seems to be to start with SPr at 5, set your duty cycle until you get your desired boost level. Keep upping your SPr 1# at a time until your boost spikes, then back SPr down 1#. I think my SPr is currently at 8.

I did not use the hose that is included with the TruBoost for the wastegate - too small compared to the original hose and fittings. I replaced the nipples that it came with it to a larger size (3/8", I believe). One of the nipples is straight, the other is a 90° - that allowed me to keep the solenoid positioned correctly in the cyclic valve spot. You should be able to source them locally from a hardware store (I had these laying around).

Installation will be *MUCH* easier with the intake removed. Not impossible with it in place, but it is a PITA with it there.

Red!

Thanks for all the advice, one last question: Which is the line going to the j-boot?

I found this diagram, I assume the Banjo Bolt connection is the one labeled "Banjo bolt" where I need to replace the bolt with an "open" one - then there are two other connections, which one do I plug and ignore? (I'm guessing its the blue line, since it doesn't go the the waste gate)

PorscheDoc

If you look directly at the ports on the cycling valve: Or from above in a counter clockwise direction

Left: J boot
Middle: Intercooler pipe
Right: Wastegate

CurtP

You could actually continue to use the J-boot connection if you really wanted. You would install another pipe nipple on the solenoid instead of the sintered bronze vent that it comes with and connect that to the J-boot (blue line). Next time I have the intake off, that's probably what I'll end up doing myself.

Red!

What does the j-boot do and why would you want to attach it vs. plug it?

I assume then the solenoid then has a "Y" connector one one side with two lines going to it, (the banjo/intercooler pipe and the j-line on the Y) and the other side's line goes to the wastegate - Right?

CurtP

No, you assume incorrectly. Have you even received your EBC yet?

The difference of using the J-boot -vs- the sintered bronze vent is one makes it a closed system, the other vents to atmosphere. Personal preference. I'd just rather have mine set up like stock, nothing more.

You might be better off taking it to your mechanic for installation.

Red!

I have the unit in hand, and plan to have it installed by my mechanic (a race-only shop) but I've learned that when you hand a mechanic something they haven't installed before you end up in a discussion about "what's best" and the only way I can contribute to the discussion is to know a little bit about it - I like to know about the equipment, and I certainly have opinions, which makes me a racecar driver.

I think I understand, is the J-boot for the "recovery" of the pressure that otherwise blows out the sintered bronze vent in their "suggested" installation? And therefore you want to "recycle" the gas/pressure into the system instead of blowing it out on all the stuff under the manifold and up onto the fuel rail, etc since hot gas rises?

(I'm sorry I seem to be pissing you off with my ignorance, but I am very serious about understanding how it all works and why - I'm not trying to save a buck, or get you to come over and work on my car )