zoltan944

the difference is the regular style shoots this in front of your TB which is then supposed to atomize itself and distribute to the cylinders evenly which is done good enough on the 50-75 shot. Direct port is not sneeky its drilled and tapped directly into each manifold runner for even distribution.
Basically its like removing your fuel injectors and placing them in front of your TB. This will work just fine to a point, but you will see a better controlled and even enviroment with the injectors firing directly there- ie Direct port injection

Cone_eater

Can the injectors be mounted into the bottom side of the intake manifold? If so then each of the injectors can be semi-sneeky. Is direct-port wet or dry, or both options? I think dry would be an easy set up. I am debating just to swap fuel injectors to an even larger size then run dry.

CurtP

Do not go dry. Yes, there are some dry direct port systems, but you really don't want a dry setup. You still have to add additional fuel and typically that is done with an FMU. FMUs suck - I can't tell you how many I've seen fail and how many problems they cause. On disc injectors, using an FMU can cause them to go static (the additional pressure slams them shut) causing a severe lean condition. Most of the failures I've seen with FMUs is a ruptured diaphragm. The other way to add fuel is to spray the nitrous across a hot-wire MAF. It works, sort of, but is impossible to tune and they're notoriously inconsistent. A wet system is the ONLY way to go, IMO.

You could install the nozzles under the intake, but it really won't be that sneaky. You'll still have to mount your solenoids somewhere and you'll have hard lines, fuel/nitrous manifolds, braided lines, etc. You can make it inconspicuous, but if someone knows anything about nitrous, they'll be able to spot it pretty easily. I'm in the camp of why try to hide it? Trying to hide it makes no sense to me.

Personally, I'd run a single nozzle on such a small shot. I don't like running anything less than a 25hp shot through each nozzle - I don't think you get the proper nitrous/fuel mixture when you're below the 25hp/nozzle level. And if I go through the trouble of building a direct-port system, I always plumb a complete secondary fuel system dedicated just to the nitrous system.

beemreatr

Is this going on the 924? I though you were selling it for a 928? Which car are you planning on putting the juice?

V2Rocket

swap to bigger injectors regardless of how much shot you wanna use. it is better to run rich with nitrous because too lean will blow up your face.

bigger injectors would also give you more room to play with for shot size.

can someone explain how a given amount of nitrous is rated to a certain power level? in plain airflow 25HP is about 38 CFM, how do they get that equivalent out of the little nozzle?


oh and if youre a 928 guy, talk to BRETT AINLEY, he installed 1000HP kit on his 928 for a 200MPH+ run. here's the thread he showed it off in: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/413093-1000-hp-fitting-pictures.html

Cone_eater

I am gonna keep it. I don’t want to just build another car. This one has too many memories and to much potential. No one wants to give me what its worth to me. I will stick with 4 less pistons and 100x more fun!
If I run a dry shot after the MAF, and huge fuel injectors, will it be a decent set-up?
I want to easily go back to stock, if the time ever comes.
What injectors are best and how big can I go?
Lindsey racing has some for 250 but I know accel makes any size you want for 50 each.
What # is best for the application.
The reason for hidden is because I like a clean style and for as little mods to be known as possible. Its more fun that way.
Also I am doing this cause my area if its not a V8 then its not a "real" car. I hate all the SBC guys with a 300 horse LT1 that think they are gods. I want to get a dyno-slip and achieve some respect. Its ridiculous to hear "oh thats just a little 4-banger"
Pisses me off! Sorry for the rant…

I am starting a new job monday that will open up some more opportunities for aftermarket parts. I am going from Oreilly to Autozone. Better pay and more available import parts. Yeah

V2Rocket

stock 944 injectors are like 21#. 36# injectors from a ford supercoupe will plug right into your engine and should be good to around 250HP

CurtP

A couple of things. Why do you keep bringing up dry systems? They're bad. They're downright crap. EVERYONE I know who had a dry setup either blew something up or have moved on to a wet setup.

And secondly, I'm one of those LT1 guys. If those guys are bragging about their 300hp dyno, then that's just sad. 300 is nothing to brag about. They're also dragging around a heavy-assed car. The 4th gen F-body is close to 2-tons. My '95 Formula is a stripper - manual windows, no options, hard top (originally didn't have T-tops) and it still weighs 3780#. The weight only goes up from there. The Y-body (Corvette) isn't much better. You have to understand the mentality of these guys. It doesn't matter what you do, you'll never impress them, you'll never gain their respect and you're going to continuously hear the same tired old joke about the differences between a Porsche and a porcupine. You want to have a laugh? Get a group of them to participate in an autocross.

More than likely the LTx guys are taking it out on you because the LSx guys are taking it out on them. Grow a thicker skin and don't worry about it so much. Just remember at the end of the day, they're still driving a GM.

Cone_eater

I am not trying to offend any GM guys here. The last thing I herd at the end of my day was a SBC guy talking his smack about his 98 Firebird. It just gets old. Everyone around here does drag racing. I want to try the 924S but I don’t want to be embarrassed when I turn a 15 at 80mph. I know the car isn’t made for it but no car is made to be raced that hard. And I just want to try (plus it is no longer my daily driver, only my toy). Thanks for the help and I am looking into the wet shot tomorrow. I found a used dry shot for 150 with the bottle. That’s what made me so interested in dry.

CurtP

98 Firebird is a LS1. A dog off the line, but watch out when it hits the upper RPMs. Let's see him go through some twisties, especially since the companies who make suspension parts for them have no clue about handling. More than likely he's running control arms with poly bushings on either end which bind when the body rolls through a corner.

And who cares if you offend a GM guy? I'm a GM guy and I don't care. I built my Formula to go through turns, but it still doesn't hold a candle to a Miata, Porsche or BMW with any sort of suspension mods. It's fun in the straights and wide sweepers, but man does it kick out on trying to get it to go through anything tight. I know what my car is and I enjoy it for what it is - and even what it isn't.

Just remember that no matter what you do, there will be someone bigger, badder and faster than you. Enjoy your car for what it is. My gut feeling is that you'll keep adding more and more nitrous trying to keep up with the LT/S guys and will end up hurting your car (and/or yourself). Seriously, don't get yourself caught up in all the bull****.

As for the dry kit - you could use most of it. Replace the dry nozzle for a wet nozzle, add a fuel solenoid and braided lines for it. $150 may a bad deal if the bottle is full and is complete, but I see used NX wet setups go for $175 - $250. Who makes the dry kit, and what is included for $150?

Cone_eater

Its a NOS kit with the bottle, jets, silonoids, and lines.

eman930

Couldnt you just upgrade to a hight flow 951 fuel pump??? Keep the stock injectors, T off the end of the fuel rail where the check ball is and run it to your fuel sil. I would think a High flow 951 fuel pump SHould have enought volume to run atleast another 100hp. I hate dry kits, I ran one in my 2000 Tacoma v6 and it sucked, Its a half *** way of doing nitrous, Nitrous should ALWAYS be wet.

Cone_eater

GREAT IDEA!!!
Also very nice S!

Then I can split there for the rail gage from lindsey racing. I talked to the guy today and he had a second kit off his drag car. Complete NOS wet kit: $350

eman930

Nice score. THe ignition unit you are running, Does it have nitrous timing retard??? I just got a MSD SCI digitial plus It has built in nitrous retard. I believe you want 2 degrees retard for every 75hp. ALso if you can figure out what the fitting is on the end of the fuel rail PLEASE tell me. I too will also be running a nitrous kit and want to T off the end where the check ball is, But I cant find any fittings to adapt from the fuel rail. Some weird thread size ect.

jtsporsche

nitrous isnt the only thing