Brake Squeal
05-26-2008, 08:42 PM
#1
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Brake Squeal
New pads and rotors in the front over the winter. Driving ever since and brakes squeal under slow braking only.
Using the spider brake dampeners w/ wurth squeal stop.
Missing somthing?
I do have a small power steering leak that VERY slowly drips fluid(1 drip every month) and its in that area...
Using the spider brake dampeners w/ wurth squeal stop.
Missing somthing?
I do have a small power steering leak that VERY slowly drips fluid(1 drip every month) and its in that area...
05-26-2008, 09:59 PM
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Probably a good 500 miles.
Zimmerman cross drilled with OEM pads.
I've been driving pretty hard, or at least thought I was.
Fluid topped, brake pedal is right there, no loss in performace what so ever.
Zimmerman cross drilled with OEM pads.
I've been driving pretty hard, or at least thought I was.
Fluid topped, brake pedal is right there, no loss in performace what so ever.
05-27-2008, 06:34 AM
#7
ERRR no
run the brakes in under normal conditions, otherwise you'll glaze them
squeel uually comes from brake dust or vibration
as you've used what sounds like the correct brake dampers, did you clean all the brake dust out as well.
some brake/pads are more squeely than others
on the standard s2 OEM parts never ever had any problems with squeel.
either way, DONT drive it hard till it run in
run the brakes in under normal conditions, otherwise you'll glaze them
squeel uually comes from brake dust or vibration
as you've used what sounds like the correct brake dampers, did you clean all the brake dust out as well.
some brake/pads are more squeely than others
on the standard s2 OEM parts never ever had any problems with squeel.
either way, DONT drive it hard till it run in
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05-27-2008, 07:37 AM
#8
I think the squeel is age related. As the calipers go older the pistons loose there flexibility and they do not function as when they were new. They do work OK under hard braking normally as the pistons are not seized. So is possible if the brakes are worked hard occasionally that the calipper recovers some of the flexibility. On my S2 maybe if I rotate the calipers around (front to back) I may be able to get rid of some of the squeel as the backs never get much action.
05-27-2008, 08:02 AM
#9
ERRR no
run the brakes in under normal conditions, otherwise you'll glaze them
squeel uually comes from brake dust or vibration
as you've used what sounds like the correct brake dampers, did you clean all the brake dust out as well.
some brake/pads are more squeely than others
on the standard s2 OEM parts never ever had any problems with squeel.
either way, DONT drive it hard till it run in
run the brakes in under normal conditions, otherwise you'll glaze them
squeel uually comes from brake dust or vibration
as you've used what sounds like the correct brake dampers, did you clean all the brake dust out as well.
some brake/pads are more squeely than others
on the standard s2 OEM parts never ever had any problems with squeel.
either way, DONT drive it hard till it run in
Really, Where in the origonal post did you get the idea he was still under break in??? I was looking at it from the POV that the pads were already bed in. But i do thank you for correcting me.
And exactly how many mile do you consider proper for break in??? 500 seems to be more than enough. Mark
05-27-2008, 08:29 AM
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I'm trying to remember back to the beginning of last winter, I spent quite a bit of time cleaning, and wire brushing the brake pad cavity, and cleaning the back surface of the brake pad before applying the dampers.
I thought 500 miles was sufficient enough too, but when it kept persisting, thats when I decided to see with you guys if I had missed somthing.
I'm going to give it til the end of this week and if its still as bad, I'm going to start from the beginning. I'm all set up for rear brakes, those may have to take a back seat until this is all taken care of.
Even went as far as to buy the pelican squeal pad inserts. At this point, I'll try anything.
I drive a lot in boston and sitting in stop and go traffic with those brakes will really give you a headache.
I thought 500 miles was sufficient enough too, but when it kept persisting, thats when I decided to see with you guys if I had missed somthing.
I'm going to give it til the end of this week and if its still as bad, I'm going to start from the beginning. I'm all set up for rear brakes, those may have to take a back seat until this is all taken care of.
Even went as far as to buy the pelican squeal pad inserts. At this point, I'll try anything.
I drive a lot in boston and sitting in stop and go traffic with those brakes will really give you a headache.
05-27-2008, 01:22 PM
#11
The orginal post said:
"New pads and rotors in the front over the winter. Driving ever since and brakes squeal under slow braking only. Using the spider brake dampeners w/ wurth squeal stop. Missing somthing? I do have a small power steering leak that VERY slowly drips fluid(1 drip every month) and its in that area...
You then replied BEFORE he gave the answer that he'd done 500 miles
So my answer was and is correct as no mention was made that the break in period had been covered.
"New pads and rotors in the front over the winter. Driving ever since and brakes squeal under slow braking only. Using the spider brake dampeners w/ wurth squeal stop. Missing somthing? I do have a small power steering leak that VERY slowly drips fluid(1 drip every month) and its in that area...
You then replied BEFORE he gave the answer that he'd done 500 miles
So my answer was and is correct as no mention was made that the break in period had been covered.
Really, Where in the origonal post did you get the idea he was still under break in??? I was looking at it from the POV that the pads were already bed in. But i do thank you for correcting me. And exactly how many mile do you consider proper for break in??? 500 seems to be more than enough.
Mark
And exactly how many mile do you consider proper for break in??? 500 seems to be more than enough. Mark
05-27-2008, 01:24 PM
#12
500miles is plenty doode.
again some pads are better than others, I've had no probs with OEM and again the OEM spider spring dampers
again some pads are better than others, I've had no probs with OEM and again the OEM spider spring dampers
I'm trying to remember back to the beginning of last winter, I spent quite a bit of time cleaning, and wire brushing the brake pad cavity, and cleaning the back surface of the brake pad before applying the dampers.
I thought 500 miles was sufficient enough too, but when it kept persisting, thats when I decided to see with you guys if I had missed somthing.
I'm going to give it til the end of this week and if its still as bad, I'm going to start from the beginning. I'm all set up for rear brakes, those may have to take a back seat until this is all taken care of.
Even went as far as to buy the pelican squeal pad inserts. At this point, I'll try anything.
I drive a lot in boston and sitting in stop and go traffic with those brakes will really give you a headache.
I thought 500 miles was sufficient enough too, but when it kept persisting, thats when I decided to see with you guys if I had missed somthing.
I'm going to give it til the end of this week and if its still as bad, I'm going to start from the beginning. I'm all set up for rear brakes, those may have to take a back seat until this is all taken care of.
Even went as far as to buy the pelican squeal pad inserts. At this point, I'll try anything.
I drive a lot in boston and sitting in stop and go traffic with those brakes will really give you a headache.
05-27-2008, 06:00 PM
#13
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Drive home today was awful. A lot of looks, not the good kind.
Going out to clean the caliper, reseat the pads and reapply the adhesive for the spiders.
I like to keep these sort of jobs for the garage at home. I do my wrangler's brakes, grand cherokees brakes, and the s60 volvo's. I'd hate to go to my engine mechanic for this, but I just may need that finesse that makes the difference. What that difference is, I have no idea.
Going out to clean the caliper, reseat the pads and reapply the adhesive for the spiders.
I like to keep these sort of jobs for the garage at home. I do my wrangler's brakes, grand cherokees brakes, and the s60 volvo's. I'd hate to go to my engine mechanic for this, but I just may need that finesse that makes the difference. What that difference is, I have no idea.
05-28-2008, 12:10 AM
#14
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I've stuck with Pagid on both the S2 and 924S and never had brake squeal. As soon as they go on I do about 7 progressively hard stops within about 2 miles, but I do not come to a full stop between stops. That is my break in. S2 has 200k miles on calipers and by the look of the vibration discs did not look rebuilt.
The only thing I can suggest is to put down some 100 grit or so sand paper on flat surface and rub the pads over that to deglaze them if they are in fact glazed.
I should add that it could be as simple as a nasty piece of grit attached itself to the pad as you installed them.
The only thing I can suggest is to put down some 100 grit or so sand paper on flat surface and rub the pads over that to deglaze them if they are in fact glazed.
I should add that it could be as simple as a nasty piece of grit attached itself to the pad as you installed them.
05-28-2008, 01:34 AM
#15
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I had Porsche OEM (made by Pagid) pads in my 968, pretty much brand new when I bought the car. They were way too noisy so I replaced them. I tried rebedding them but that did not help. I put some Bendix metallic pads I had laying around in the front and bought some PBR metallics for the rear but have not swapped the rears yet. The rears are not very noisy although they are the same pads. The Bendix pads cured the noise from the front. It was not a squeal problem but a grindy sound and sometimes a loud groan under light braking.
-Joel.
-Joel.
