Sway bar comparison 968 M030 V Weltmeister
#1
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Sway bar comparison 968 M030 V Weltmeister
Who has used them both on a similarly set up car that can give a review on both?
I have a 968 30mm front in the garage and a set of Weltmeisters in the garage. A spacer for one of the droplinks from the Welts fell out of an envelope en route to me.
I decided a month ago that after the sways i am not doing any more modifications to the car, and putting the $$ towards an Elise in a few years.
The S2 is my DE, autox car now, and thats about all i will be using it for. So, which set of bars, and why?
Unless there is market for one Weltmeister, i dont feel like breaking up the set, and Dan (jeeper) has dibs on my M030 if i dont use it.
im soooo confused.
I have a 968 30mm front in the garage and a set of Weltmeisters in the garage. A spacer for one of the droplinks from the Welts fell out of an envelope en route to me.
I decided a month ago that after the sways i am not doing any more modifications to the car, and putting the $$ towards an Elise in a few years.
The S2 is my DE, autox car now, and thats about all i will be using it for. So, which set of bars, and why?
Unless there is market for one Weltmeister, i dont feel like breaking up the set, and Dan (jeeper) has dibs on my M030 if i dont use it.
im soooo confused.
Last edited by Tom R.; 03-07-2008 at 10:59 PM.
#3
Nordschleife Master
Ran both on a street car its a no brainer the M030 is a much nicer setup. The Welt setup just has to many things that like to make noise. On the track its hard to say I guess it depends on your setup honestly. I can tell you that with mine the M030 seems to match it nicer but I am not exactly looking for something to cancel understeer with my current springrates/track/alignment settings.
#4
Three Wheelin'
The Welts seem much stiffer than the 968 M030. Not saying better, just more adjustable and stiffer. I would definitely keep them matched whichever way you go. YMMV.
#5
Nordschleife Master
Tom,
I wouldn't use the Front Weltmeister bar with stock springs and stock aluminum a-arms. The aluminum a-arms aren't designed to take that much load in the manner that the weltmeisters apply it (off center, so there is a load trying to twist the a-arm).
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/413526-major-cast-alloy-control-arm-failure-check-your-suspension.html
The best handling / most adjustable / safest option would probably be m030 front bar with weltmeister rear. I remember a few people running this setup and being happy -- I want to say Zoltan may have ended up with this setup.
I'd say keep the m030 set, sell off the weltmeister set and save up for that elise. I'll give you $100 for both weltmeister bars.
I wouldn't use the Front Weltmeister bar with stock springs and stock aluminum a-arms. The aluminum a-arms aren't designed to take that much load in the manner that the weltmeisters apply it (off center, so there is a load trying to twist the a-arm).
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/413526-major-cast-alloy-control-arm-failure-check-your-suspension.html
The best handling / most adjustable / safest option would probably be m030 front bar with weltmeister rear. I remember a few people running this setup and being happy -- I want to say Zoltan may have ended up with this setup.
I'd say keep the m030 set, sell off the weltmeister set and save up for that elise. I'll give you $100 for both weltmeister bars.
#6
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Adrial,
I have the double adjusable konis, the M474 part number with the springs that came with them, so i think they should be more than 200# springs, but that is just a guess. they are definitely stiffer than the ones i took out.
I have the double adjusable konis, the M474 part number with the springs that came with them, so i think they should be more than 200# springs, but that is just a guess. they are definitely stiffer than the ones i took out.
#7
Nordschleife Master
I'm pretty sure that m474 is softer than m030, which is somewhere around 180# - but progressive.
Either way, even with m474 or m030 I still wouldn't use the weltmeister front bar.
I would start to consider them at 250# or 300#, but not without talking to someone thats run that successfully for a while. Unless of course breaking an a-arm in half is on the to-do list...
Either way, even with m474 or m030 I still wouldn't use the weltmeister front bar.
I would start to consider them at 250# or 300#, but not without talking to someone thats run that successfully for a while. Unless of course breaking an a-arm in half is on the to-do list...
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#8
The other consideration is get the matching M030 adjustable rear bar. They were designed as a set. I have been very happy with this setup. On track the springs and Tbars are a bit soft.
If you go with the M030 bars you really should triangulate the mounting bracket to either the frame or cross member. The heavier swaybars end up acting as a spring and carry more suspension loading. Unless braced they will crack and break at the mounting bolts.
If you go with the M030 bars you really should triangulate the mounting bracket to either the frame or cross member. The heavier swaybars end up acting as a spring and carry more suspension loading. Unless braced they will crack and break at the mounting bolts.
#9
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The other consideration is get the matching M030 adjustable rear bar. They were designed as a set. I have been very happy with this setup. On track the springs and Tbars are a bit soft.
If you go with the M030 bars you really should triangulate the mounting bracket to either the frame or cross member. The heavier swaybars end up acting as a spring and carry more suspension loading. Unless braced they will crack and break at the mounting bolts.
If you go with the M030 bars you really should triangulate the mounting bracket to either the frame or cross member. The heavier swaybars end up acting as a spring and carry more suspension loading. Unless braced they will crack and break at the mounting bolts.
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repost:
there's some interesting info on this thread...
also pulling a few posts from an old 968 thread that died out...
as Amber Lamps alluded to, my 968 arrived in California with my newly acquired front Weltmeister sway bar MIA.
so, I'm starting from scratch...
I have this rear Weltmeister. don't have the slightest clue as to whether or not I should replace the front Weltmeister or get an M030.
I'm attempting to learn suspension/swaybars/ 101 for the street running oem suspension.
my thinking is that it would be advantageous to add just a bit more oversteer to the car.
wondering if I'm over-rating that.
and if the added weight up front via the v8 may already be helping.
for the street attempting to stiffen up the roll in high speed cornering.... and stop there.
does anyone know a general combination starting with oem shocks in the front and adjustable shocks in the rear - that will help a car to understeer the least??
does anyone know if at what point you're running either a 968 M030 or Weltmeister front bar that you begin seeing cracking of the mounting components (as seen above)
- and also ball joint/caster blocks seeing premature wearing??
/
there's some interesting info on this thread...
also pulling a few posts from an old 968 thread that died out...
as Amber Lamps alluded to, my 968 arrived in California with my newly acquired front Weltmeister sway bar MIA.
so, I'm starting from scratch...
I have this rear Weltmeister. don't have the slightest clue as to whether or not I should replace the front Weltmeister or get an M030.
I'm attempting to learn suspension/swaybars/ 101 for the street running oem suspension.
my thinking is that it would be advantageous to add just a bit more oversteer to the car.
wondering if I'm over-rating that.
and if the added weight up front via the v8 may already be helping.
for the street attempting to stiffen up the roll in high speed cornering.... and stop there.
does anyone know a general combination starting with oem shocks in the front and adjustable shocks in the rear - that will help a car to understeer the least??
does anyone know if at what point you're running either a 968 M030 or Weltmeister front bar that you begin seeing cracking of the mounting components (as seen above)
- and also ball joint/caster blocks seeing premature wearing??
/
Last edited by odurandina; 07-21-2015 at 02:52 PM.
#11
You need to ditch the OEM struts and get some real coilovers under the car IMO, You've got a lot more power to deal with than you did, and are way way under the amount of spring rate you need. It can still be super nice on the street with the coilover setup, you just need to get out of the 160lb spring rate range and boost up to the 250+ up front and more out back (im guessing). Sways will be part of the package but they won't fix your issues.